vanders1 said..
Ok, wow what have I missed here...?

Now let me explain my logic with all this, and right or wrong it is what it is.

I live 1h20m from the surf and have a reasonably demanding job that takes me away from home and family on a regular basis, this leads to limited opportunities to hit the water, averaged maybe 3-4 times per month over the last few years. This combined with dodgy shoulders that have lead most recently to my second shoulder reconstruction (both done now) meant that to get the most enjoyment of the opportunities I've had to surf with the least amount of pain has resulted from surfing larger boards. Easier paddling both onto the waves and getting back to the lineup has been made easier on this style of board. Getting more waves using the limited time I have I see as good value. Of course I wish I was good enough to hit the lip, or pull off a hard fast cutback, but the reality is I'm not, and until I either have more time to spend in the water or we move to the coast, the time I have to spend on progression is limited.

All that being said I don't disagree with the benefit of a smaller board and I'll likely fill that gap once I'm able to. As any of the guys that I've surfed with will know I'm not fussy with the conditions I surf in, not having the luxury to look at it and say I'll give it a miss and come back tomorrow means I generally surf whatever I find on the day, I've generally found where I mainly surf and what I'm comfortable with given my ability my 10' Goddard handles most of the bigger stuff and beachies and the others fit in after that. I've also found the glide of these longer boards is addictive, sure I won't be smashing the lip and following it up with a big slashing cutback but that doesn't mean I'm not having a ball, and rarely do I get out without a smile on my face having appreciated the time I've spent de-stressing and enjoying my time in the water. No apologies.

I do appreciate the encouragement from the guys I surf with and the friendships I've made, I've learnt lots and enjoy the banter, just another bonus of this fantastic pursuit.

McHenry said..








Great post Vanders, I'm in the same position coupled with not growing up surfing, higher volume boards make sure you catch waves with the limited time in the water. Especially if you know you will struggle on something else usually shorter with less volume! Stick to what you know and love and you have the formula for stoke right there.

Al G said..








Yep,great post mate.The best surfer is the one who has the most fun and a smile on ya dial when ya come in

laceys lane said..







ha, I remember nick carol writing that's a crock of sh1T.

you know you guys think your the only ones who have struggled. like %99 of people just rip straight away. like somehow you were cheated!!!!

anything good takes practise. there is a distinct lack of having a real crack at here

typical modern day thinking. I wasn't good at it straight away so its not worth doing.

talk about dumbing down surfing.

have a f ing go and put the time in


there, done. it has to be said. finished

oldmal said..
Lacey I read somewhere where Macaha said you should stick to short boards as you don't get the longboard concept just saying

oldmal said..
Lacey I read somewhere where Macaha said you should stick to short boards as you don't get the longboard concept just saying

Macaha said..
Reading between the lines Lacey is dishing out some friendly banter re these big boards, he did make one good point in relation to not being a complete wave pig, just being a pig is ok.

Macaha said..
Reading between the lines Lacey is dishing out some friendly banter re these big boards, he did make one good point in relation to not being a complete wave pig, just being a pig is ok.