Made me laugh

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Nozza said..

Have you been scrappin the basalt ??

Oh no! What happened. When your ready to talk about it.

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tarquin1 said..
Oh no! What happened. When your ready to talk about it.

No doubt on the rocks, I know the feeling.

Nozza is a handy man and will have it looking like new again.

Sea snail things, rocks, general clumsiness.
Repairing the balsa worries me - been putting off starting for months.
But will see how it goes.....

Have you contacted Sunova? You could buy some balsa from a model aeroplane shop. Using a template cut out area with a Stanley knife and glue in new piece of balsa?
Or just slap some filler in.

Went the filler option.
Balsa sort of punched in over a small area rather than damaged as a piece.
Watched Bert's "How to fix" videos, main thing I got out of them is don't be too precious about how it looks - the board will still work fine.





Main worry now is it is so cold in Melbourne the filler won't go off.

Little fan heater. You can even make a box over the area. Obviously keep an eye on it!
Electric blanket,put plastic over the filler! Good luck with the misses on that one.

I was doing some repairs last week in cold weather. First time resin set like hard rubber. Next time I heated the mix with the hair dryer. Worked perfectly. By the way is that an 11" Munoz in the shed? Selling??????

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Nozza said..
Went the filler option.
Balsa sort of punched in over a small area rather than damaged as a piece.
Watched Bert's "How to fix" videos, main thing I got out of them is don't be too precious about how it looks - the board will still work fine.





Main worry now is it is so cold in Melbourne the filler won't go off.

Berts right on,it doesn't matter how any board looks, main thing is it works, unless you want to hang it on a wall.

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bigmc said..
I was doing some repairs last week in cold weather. First time resin set like hard rubber. Next time I heated the mix with the hair dryer. Worked perfectly. By the way is that an 11" Munoz in the shed? Selling??????

Why would want a 11 ft Munoz when you have the BEST ....11 ft tak prince,by the way the other board I think is 12 ft psh another true classic .

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bigmc said..
I was doing some repairs last week in cold weather. First time resin set like hard rubber. Next time I heated the mix with the hair dryer. Worked perfectly. By the way is that an 11" Munoz in the shed? Selling??????

11' Munoz waiting restoration - been creased.
Not selling, but impressed at your attention to detail in the background.
Loft, not shed.

Yes that is truly a loft. My loft is 5.6m x 2m x 1.5m height. Always want things I don't have eg 11ft surfboards, lofts etc. Big event happening this week. 11 footers in the Bay. SUP or prone. Depending on wind.

I also spotted the yellow 12 PSH on the rack.
Classic board ...I have one also which came in the first PSH shipments back in the day.
Great board in big bombs or small ankle slappers.

Filler went off, but still a bit tacky.
For some reason the white tinted stuff went off better than the red tinted stuff.
Which is quite strange because the red was the white mix re tinted.
Red a bigger volume, which I would have thought would make it go off better.
All good now....

This afternoon brushed up on my Sunova repairs "how to" videos....


I really have little idea about what I am doing, so good to get a refresh.
I think the main thing the video says to me, or doesn't say, is "work in the surfboard industry for 40 years so you are really good at this"
If I approached my board with the sander Bert uses, I would be trying to put two pieces of board back together.
Good info though.
Decided to simplify my life by splitting the job in to the "white' repair, and the "red" repair.
White first.
Finished sanding the filler, cut patches of glass.


Re masked the repair area to limit collateral damage.
The amount of damage I can do to the area surrounding the repair, by over sanding and spillage, is quite extraordinary.


Mixed another impossibly small quantity of resin, tinted it white.


Note left over set red filler to the left.
I had also retrieved my digital scales from the food quantity obsessed daughter, so I could have half a hope of mixing resin and hardener correctly.
It also helps to eat a lot of tinned tuna, and save the tins.
Applied resin and glass, added peel ply.
For those not paying attention last semester, peel ply is basically taffeta fabric.
The excess resin passes through the fabric and can be peeled away, leaving a smooth surface saving heaps of sanding later.


I would like to find wooden icy pole sticks somewhere to use as mixers.
Unfortunately, plastic disposable teaspoons are more readily available.
Looked good.
Despite my previous resolution to colour code my repairs, I re sanded the big red patch.
Found a hollow in the middle that needed more filler.
So now I needed about a quarter of a teaspoon of filler.
Given my ineptitude at this stuff, I usually use pre made filler, even if it is only resin and microballoons I could mix myself.
If something can be stuffed up, I will stuff it up, so I try to keep things as simple as possible.
But I had some left over white resin, so maybe I could turn that in to filler.


Not sure of the relevance of the multimeter there.
Reached for my red pigment, and a handy container of cocaine.


The red pigment re coloured the white resin really well.
I think from memory these pigments are meant to colour polyester resin for gell coat repairs, but they seem to do epoxy really well.
Not sure if white would overcome red quite as easily.
Added cocaine until I achieved the desired glugginess of filler.
Tried to re fill the tiny bit I needed.


Seemed to go rather well.
Only had 99% of the re coloured filler left over.
Left it alone to dry lest I do more damage.
Back to watching videos of Bert.....



Those real weirdos amongst you will note a continuity error there, where the last photo was taken before I started.

Approached the white repair.
Everthing seemed to have gone off.


Unmasked, cleaned up some splatters.
Worried the next stage is going to make things worse.


Over to the red.
Yesterday's filler top up sanded off well.
Cut glass and peel ply.


A new mix of an impossibly small volume of resin, tinted red.


Everything seemed to go OK.

Cocaine as a filler or micro sphere ???

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Nozza said..
Approached the white repair.
Everthing seemed to have gone off.


Unmasked, cleaned up some splatters.
Worried the next stage is going to make things worse.


Over to the red.
Yesterday's filler top up sanded off well.
Cut glass and peel ply.


A new mix of an impossibly small volume of resin, tinted red.


Everything seemed to go OK.

The meanest trick to repair is to do the proper location made with a grinder. Not too deep but enough deepness passes to leave thickness to lay the lays of glass and resin patches.
Then you can fix it quickly all together the dings white or red ones. Mix the resin in enough quantity to put later once the batch mixed the red and white pigment separately in 2 shares. Laminate your ding as you do but cover those patches with a cooking film ( transparent one). It will cure quickly out of moisture and the film can be release leaving a gloss surface.
With some practice you can fix your board more efficiently that way.

This is what I did. But unfortunately I didn't use balsa and the plywood went darker after applying epoxy. Otherwise I would've been happy with it.

Looks like a neat job.
Did you glass over it or rely on the glued in patch to seal around the edges?

Red patches went off properly, peeled away pretty neatly.


I'll let them cure for a day or two more before sanding.
Still worried about damage I may do to the surrounding bits when I sand.
But even so far, I have a watertight board that is patched to the correct colours, so I probably can't make things too bad.

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Kami said..
Then you can fix it quickly all together the dings white or red ones. Mix the resin in enough quantity to put later once the batch mixed the red and white pigment separately in 2 shares. Laminate your ding as you do but cover those patches with a cooking film ( transparent one). It will cure quickly out of moisture and the film can be release leaving a gloss surface.
With some practice you can fix your board more efficiently that way.

Good tip, but I lack the precision of repairing to pull it off properly.
I also stress about getting overlap of the patch on to the surrounding board to make sure everything is strong and watertight.

On a flat surface repair like that I use the poor mans vacuum bagging technique, do the repair then overlay with peel ply cloth, then paper towel then highish density (but still yeilding) foam then finally a sandbag or equivalent heavy thing to load it all up. All the excess resin gets squeezed through the peel ply into paper towel. Amazing the difference it makes to the hardness of the glass if you can get rid of all the excess resin.

Also totally agree with Kami, bit of GladWrap over the top makes a huge difference if you don't want to go the peel ply route.

Used to repair some early days carbon paddles the same way, particular paddle brand used to hairline crack along the lower edge, about a cm from the actual edge, layer of fine carbon each side, peel ply, paper towel and foam on both sides then put it in the vice! The increase in weight from the repair once it was done was only a few grams and they were bulletproof after that.

I always find the hardest part is the final sanding, sooo easy to stuff it up and cut through the layers you have built up.

Strongly recommend watching Eva in action!

boardlady.com/

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Nozza said..
I'll let them cure for a day or two more before sanding.

So about 105 days of lockdown later, I'm back to the loft. Been outside my travel radius, and "i'm going to play with my boards" wasn't one of the permitted reasons for leaving home.
Everything much as I left it.


Resin had certainly gone off.


Sanded my patches, and as I suspected, had a lot of trouble blending in to the surrounding board without damaging a wider area.
The red patches in particular were way too proud of the board, too much filler and glass.
Trying to get rid of the lip at the edge of the patch, I've gone through the red on the board.
I've sanded it with 120 grit, it needs more but I've paused.
I may sand further and try some paint, or just continue to finer paper and see how it comes up.
Looks OK from here...


Which probably means I shouldn't worry too much.
But great to be back in the loft.....

Another SUP/Windsurf conversion coming, peeps...stay tuned!