I'm building a SUP to a old mate 5ears experience SUPer used to ride longboard with some classic board from California as Hobie, Martinson, toes on nose series and other ones of that kind. So i keep in mind these 9' longboard premodern shape and designed this SUP for him to spend (our) winter in Sri Lankan waves:
i will put some picture of the board later on when it will come out from glassing job which i hope light to under 7kg finished board.
I know and i agree with You 100%
Im biding my time until they arrive in this part of the world.
Hope i havent offended anyone
Thanks kami, I'll look that up tou be sure. At least that will free up the ipad in the evening - the better half will like that!
I better get this once I have a few things under control around here, or nothing is ever gonna get done. Looks great kami.
Hi Kami
I have just purchased the full version of shape 3d and starting to learn how to use it to on the cnc I have just build here in the uk. Have You played with the 3d layers much and creating deck recesses for race boards? I have not yet figured the best way to round the rails into the deck recess. Do you have any tips?
Many thanks
Thx Supthecrreek, finally i'm not making this 6 channel board to go in my Caribean's Island trip.I will do it later on.
I better like this one , it's a flex tail .
Cheers thanks kami I managed to figure it out in the end I think it was a issue on the template I was using so set up the layers again and it was all good. Im finding that sometimes if find a bump some were or something doesn't look right just to delete the slice in the middle, let it smooth its self out then re insert a new slice and start again
Yes, let the program works by itself, always start from one slice can be middle first as example, create others at end OFO's, then delete back center one , create middle slice again , smooth it .... get a glance on volume capacity and centered it as you want with width ( which is prime for SUP)! this is is just like shaping with live foam, it never end in dust spread down the floor near stand feet. Just send file to the trash box if you don't like.
Shaping is wonderful this way
My last game, i think i will send this file to CNC
YES, i'm going to try 25.4 " wide for usual 85 liters to my weight 78kg, will see what happens to me
Fins set up will be: MRX (with out railer) and small B5 as inlet fin (all from FCS)
Quatro set fins positions in option plugs placement.
Coming out soon from my kichen, i fly to Caribbean island in next friday with this board to try it
The CNC , i should use is out of order so i 'm shaping in a traditional way, hopefully SUP are big board so i don't need to be good eyed
Merci beaucoup
Some news from my kitchen:
So easy to find find a body board which sneak or drop in on me at least once in its life. As soon as it claims quickly guilty, i torn it and stick to my board
Yes, bosted for ever
Still some more work to do before flying to tropical island on friday to demo how this flex tail vanguard 7'26" work
Finally this board isn't so good . The main reason I thought why is : there is not enough curves in the tail. Tail need curves and if you cant create in the outline of Vangard type, have to be done in tail rocker or total scoop of the board.
Finally after doing many drawings and learning more and more drawing tricks and surfing all my SUP boards i've made I'm going to do this one .
7'2" 27" 90 liters, I weight 78 kG, put some thickness in nose to offset lack of nose width, no as much yaw as supposed I expect.
Some bottom shape concaves and belly details
Wow, that looks so rippable! I think that tail will turn just fine. I just ordered an 8-4 from Pat Rawson that looks very similar.
Though bigger
You did order a Pat Rawson is that kind of this one with double winger:
Because mine is more looking as a fish rather than an typical Hawaïan board as Brewer did in his time.