Velocicraptor said..
It doesn't look like his weight isn't distributed to the front in that position. Looks pretty centered over the balance point just in front of the mast, which is where the back foot often is (or just in front of the neutral back foot position). That isn't really where I would expect someone to be if they were avoiding a breach. Maybe he's just doing that to get his center of balance lower? I will never know, thats for sure...
It doesn't look like he has a care in the world. Considering the wave and the line he takes, just blows my mind.
