Well done Shotchas. You bought the right boat at the right price and have done the right repairs.

It is all right and then some.

Fitted up my sea strainer sea level is around the lower section of the sea strainer so Ill have to top it up after any lift out as least I can see it easily now and all the hoses and clamps.
The hose barbs are Aussies made not Chinese and stainless clamps

Why not drop it down so that sea level is a few mm higher than the top of the strainer???

Also, is it mounted directly above the sea cock so you can poke a wire or metal rod through it to clear it if it becomes clogged with a piece of plastic or some such??

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cisco said..
Why not drop it down so that sea level is a few mm higher than the top of the strainer???

Also, is it mounted directly above the sea cock so you can poke a wire or metal rod through it to clear it if it becomes clogged with a piece of plastic or some such??

I was thinking of lowering the sea strainer but then I started to worry about an air lock in the head might not happen but have seen it happen on the old VL commodores if some one removed a hose and topped up the coolant they would get a air lock inside the head and eventually crack the head . They have to be bled. So I set the sea strainer just above head height
Next time I have a lift out Ill be changing all sea cocks .

Thinking about it a little more Cisco and the water pump inlet is above the boats sea level so any time the boats lifted out it will need topping up via the sea strainer I could fit a non return valve but to me its one more thing to go wrong.
Just the same Ill measure where the sea level is exactly in relation to the water pump.

Don't worry too much. Your set up looks good but I do notice you still have not cleaned off the old Gasket Goo from the face of the water pump.

Gasket Goo is outdated. I only use Loctite No 3 jointing compound, formerly Hylomar and before that Rolls Royce Jointing compound as used on aircraft.

Chart paper is a good gasket material for the face plate of that water pump if used in conjunction with Loctite No 3.

I rarely buy these overpriced gaskets. With a half pound hammer, set of wad punches and the end grain of an accurately cut hard wood block I can make almost any gasket including from copper.

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cisco said..
Don't worry too much. Your set up looks good but I do notice you still have not cleaned off the old Gasket Goo from the face of the water pump.

Gasket Goo is outdated. I only use Loctite No 3 jointing compound, formerly Hylomar and before that Rolls Royce Jointing compound as used on aircraft.

Chart paper is a good gasket material for the face plate of that water pump if used in conjunction with Loctite No 3.

I rarely buy these overpriced gaskets. With a half pound hammer, set of wad punches and the end grain of an accurately cut hard wood block I can make almost any gasket including from copper.

Hi Cisco
I have purchased a speedy seal system to use it I need a 4 bolts water pump which I'm sourcing and will rebuild it before it mounts back on the motor
www.speedseal.com/SpeedsealLife/Lifehowitworks.htm
Donk gave me the link a while a go I tried to find out before I bought it if I needed a 4 or if a 6 bolt thrust plate water pump would work never got a reply so I took the chance. Unfortunately the 6 bolt cant fit the speed seal. I do want to rebuild the water pump a specially before Bukh run out of DV20 parts for the water pump . The bukh seals have bronze springs where as the after market pump kit use steel .
From what Ive read the 4 bolt was an update from the earlier 6 bolt pump and as a result has more water flow.
A wrecker in Sydney has a pump but I couldnt get an anwser from him where the one he had there was a 6 or 4 bolt . He just kept saying there all the same .
I couldn't get a word in trying to explain there was a difference and why I wanted the 4 bolt pump so we parted company me with out knowing if he had a 4 or 6 bolt pump for sale. And He happy he had abused a customer I think it made his day .

Have a few days off work so I did a little today




( this should make Donk Happy )
Moved the solar panel to the stern so I can scrub the cabin top and sand the grab rail also ground a smaller taper around one port light cut out and epoxied a few layers tri actual mat on the out side.
Also filled in the hole at the stern with some epoxy and micro balloons Ill take a photo tomorrow Raining down here tomorrow. But I have plenty to do inside the boat

Meant to add if I remember to turn off the sea cock before a lift out would have no problem with an air lock in the cooling system . The bloody operator is the problem Cisco > me
As my brother (retired truck driver)is always saying to me are you a Driver or a Steerer Marine wise to me it would mean are you a Skipper or a Operator Ha Ha

Well well well, cobwebs are truly blown off the boat now.

Friday - sailed to queenscliff from williamstown. 10-20 knts south-south west. Arrived at queenscliff in the dark after a slow motor up the western chanel against the tide. Picked up a random swing because I couldn't find the parks Vic public mooring.

Saturday/Sunday - stood on an empty tin can whilst launching myself into the boat from the cockpit and cut my foot pretty bad. Lucky my mum was around in the area and gave me a lift to the medical centre at point Lonsdale, three stitches later all good. Made it back to the boat in time for my 11:15 departure to get the ebb slack water (3hrs after high tide for port phillip rip).
15-20knts constant south. Sailed 24hrs strait to refuge cove, thankgod for electric tiller pilots. 20minute half awake sleeps and ais alerting tankers every 6 & 3 nm proximities. Stern nav light died so I put a white bike light on the rear rail. The direct line I took did increase the amount of ships in my path, but I think was better this way getting some clearance from the coast with a south wind blowing and the direction of the slop. Highlights were the sunset around Cape schanck and sunrise at the south of the prom. Pretty slopppy seas by now, but didn't care because the views of skull rock were worth it. Rounding the lighthouse at the bottom of the prom cleared the slop and revealed sunshine and a 6.5-7knt sog downwind run to refuge cove. Wind swung around to the north upon entering refuge. Very good sleep had here, awesome anchorage from anything but am easterly. Plenty of exploring could be done here, not by me though with my crook foot and time frame.

Monday - sailed from refuge to deal. Bloody awesome!! 15-20knt Northerly with very little swell. Averaging 5.5knts sog, didn't notice any tidal movements. Deal island is a must see, bloody beautiful sail between the islands, sucked through to my anchorage of the west of deal by the tidal flow. Steep walk back in time to the caretakers lodge with plenty of breathtaking views and phone reception, first phone reception since being in the darkZone at refuge. Lots of birds and wallabys. Wish I ha longer to spend here.

Tuesday - 5-10knts and strong tidal flows, motored 3/4 of the way to prime seal island and now anchored at spit point for the night. Good protection here, just find a patch of sand to throw the anchor on. Beautiful clear water helps with that. Pretty thick bush scrub on the island, but looks to be some old farm land to the south. Plenty of big bird footprints on the sand and found a wallaby corpse.

Tomorrow - sail/motor to lady Barron, try and catch the morning tidal flows in.

Goodnight

Photos to come when I can get some wifi!

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SirJman said..
Photos to come when I can get some wifi!

Good stuff sirJman

are you coming to northern tas or shooting down the east coast jman

started early and the epoxy was set before lunch thought id keep it dry as it looked like rain late this afternoon also sanded the grab rails and Feast Watson cleaner
Also sanded down the hole I filled Monday

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HG02 said..






started early and the epoxy was set before lunch thought id keep it dry as it looked like rain late this afternoon also sanded the grab rails and Feast Watson cleaner
Also sanded down the hole I filled Monday

You do understand now that started in epoxy you should finish in epoxys or 2 pack?

p.s what happen to your instrument panel in the rear of the cockpit?

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southace said..

HG02 said..






started early and the epoxy was set before lunch thought id keep it dry as it looked like rain late this afternoon also sanded the grab rails and Feast Watson cleaner
Also sanded down the hole I filled Monday

You do understand now that started in epoxy you should finish in epoxys or 2 pack?

p.s what happen to your instrument panel in the rear of the cockpit?

I will fit a NMEA engine interface for a cockpit screen south ace
I will be painting the deck in two pack South Ace
Its quadaxial matte I'm using

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HG02 said..

southace said..

HG02 said..






started early and the epoxy was set before lunch thought id keep it dry as it looked like rain late this afternoon also sanded the grab rails and Feast Watson cleaner
Also sanded down the hole I filled Monday

You do understand now that started in epoxy you should finish in epoxys or 2 pack?

p.s what happen to your instrument panel in the rear of the cockpit?

I will fit a NMEA engine interface for a cockpit screen south ace
I will be painting the deck in two pack South Ace
Its quadaxial matte I'm using

Haha NMEA do they still make that stuff?
i would mask up around your new ports in a smooth shape and 2 PAC it the same colour as your decks.
Quad is fine for the strengh but will need something lighter to fair things in.

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southace said..

HG02 said..

southace said..

HG02 said..






started early and the epoxy was set before lunch thought id keep it dry as it looked like rain late this afternoon also sanded the grab rails and Feast Watson cleaner
Also sanded down the hole I filled Monday

You do understand now that started in epoxy you should finish in epoxys or 2 pack?

p.s what happen to your instrument panel in the rear of the cockpit?

I will fit a NMEA engine interface for a cockpit screen south ace
I will be painting the deck in two pack South Ace
Its quadaxial matte I'm using

Haha NMEA do they still make that stuff?
i would mask up around your new ports in a smooth shape and 2 PAC it the same colour as your decks.
Quad is fine for the strengh but will need something lighter to fair things in.

Have some matte so Ill add that tomorrow
The port lights wont go back in exactly the same spot as Im adding an extra 8 inch round port light at the stern for the head ventilation so roughly the new ports will be forward around 300 cm.

Hi Southace

Have you had any luck finding your next boat yet

Regards Don

Nope the market is rather dead.. I will wait till next year see what eventuates with our economy!

The photo below is my pick and what Ill end up with. I will space them evenly when I cut out.
The back port light is 20 inches long not 24 long like the other two


Did nothing for me this one below

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HG02 said..
The photo below is my pick and what Ill end up with. I will space them evenly when I cut out.
The back port light is 20 inches long not 24 long like the other two


Did nothing for me this one below

HG Just a thought, but its worth thinking about having the aft port light the largest and then the front 2 smaller. Either the front 2 the same size or the forward one a little smaller or even round.
it gives an impression of the boat going forward if they diminish in size towards the bow.
I have been agonising over mine for months.
just my 2 cents. Good luck!!

Sorry Andy that will not work in my boat I would never have a larger window in my toilet in a house than my lounge room . As the head is at the stern port side thats where the smaller port light goes and fits the compartment perfectly

Usally the the boat points into the wind at anchor so to me a larger opening forward will give me more breeze inside.
I perfer to sleep with windows open on land and I'm no different at anchor Andy. My favorite bed is a swag . Ive had two stolen I my life I make such good ones. Me < just an old bush pig




Thats where the head was it will become a large fridge freeze and the original fridge will take half the room it did and become a day fridge.
I recently priced some Aero Gel space loft $105 a M2 10 cm thick plus freight was hoping to use that for my insulation sandwiched between aluminum foil maybe a bit expensive an inch will give you a R30 rating
The head will be similar to this one below



This heads in one of the last walkers built ( starboard side ) Im doing the same on the port side . the stove / sink cabinet will be reduced to stove only and the sinks will fit on the opposite side next to the rebuilt day fridge.
this stove will gimbal on the side on the head compartment









I intend to remove the top and move the fridge to the right in this photo and add sink to the left and rebuild the fridge with good insulation . I am hoping the large fridge where the head was will freeze ice and Ill only open it once a day to pull my ice bottles out plus my food and drinks for the day. Thats my theory probably turn to manurer ( cant say the other word on here ) and add a new bench top in the process ( all this keeps me out of the pub and very busy) other wise Id be like south ace Ha Ha

Only my opinion and I am a wanker so no offence Intended. :-)

Having gotten that out the way, I didn't dig the three ovals. Kinda looked a bit double ended or gondola or something.

Have you messed around with more square-ish shaped ovals (modern) or long strips that cover two or the whole lot or a bigger window at the back ..... (a bigger piece of tinted plexi to give an illusion its a big window but only a small actual hole over the toilet/head ) Etc etc?

I fiddled for ages on Windows paint so I know how you feel. Good fun but ! :-)

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brizzydave said..
Only my opinion and I am a wanker so no offence Intended. :-)

Having gotten that out the way, I didn't dig the three ovals. Kinda looked a bit double ended or gondola or something.

Have you messed around with more square-ish shaped ovals (modern) or long strips that cover two or the whole lot or a bigger window at the back ..... (a bigger piece of tinted plexi to give an illusion its a big window but only a small actual hole over the toilet/head ) Etc etc?

I fiddled for ages on Windows paint so I know how you feel. Good fun but ! :-)

:-) Well most humans are wankers including me and Im only waiting to die like the rest of us
I have 4 large and two small Brizzy choice if I had lots of money Id buy others but these were cheap, more work but cheap and stainless steel made in england
bought the two small ones today off the same seller that I bought the 4 large a month or so ago
My mate was in Sydney today so he picked them up and will be here on Monday
I used to do Zen do kai and Show do kia got sick of the bruises love the excises but hate the pain Brizzy
Problem 1
A slow process but my cabin sides are sloped so these bad boys will love to collect rain water and or sea spray so I have to work out a simple drainage system so when I open the port lights the water dose not enter the cabin interior or I run around the deck and wipe them down before I open them.
Problem 2
The outer rings are very wide and would fit up to 50mm thick hulls or cabin sides so . I can reduce the outer ring width and or add a teak frame and insert the outer ring after its cut down or once Ive fitted the inner ring with the port light see how much is proud from the out side and just make a teak frame for that . So its not as cheap as you think Ha ha but a challenge .
All this keep me off the streets and out of the pub Brizzy and fill in time before Tony Abbott gives ma a pension > 3 years to go

oh I see now. Wow they will look really nice!

yep ...I love training but my body is pretty messed up from it. Dunno if it was worth it. Lots of ibroprofen and panadol before training these days. Like you eluded to......if I don't train I get really fat and drink too much. Only problem is that I've got no time or energy to do boat stuff on the weekend which is annoying.

How did you go with the mast step? I had no choice but to do a lot of work to mine and it is foam cored too.

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brizzydave said..
How did you go with the mast step? I had no choice but to do a lot of work to mine and it is foam cored too.

I found this photo on the net this one has carpet over the flat spot but to me compared to mine look similar so maybe the internal damage is not as bad as I think.
But on deck it need attension






There are cracks though the mounting holes . Its all on my list of thing to do before I die
Cisco description of B.O.A.T bring on another thousand need some thing more I have found
When you buy a boat you need more than a piece of paper to make you list of things to do

She'll be right. At least it's an easy pleasant job ( not overhead or in a tight spot)

My few hours on Morning Bird yesterday afternoon was one of those great few hours when everything comes together.

I had reservations my electric bilge pump wasn't working reliably and might need replacing (it is only 2 years old). Pulled it out, cleaned and tested it, resecured the hose and wiring and now she works superbly getting 30 litres out of the bilge in about 25 seconds.

I have had ongoing issues with my gearbox not engaging properly when it is put in ahead, usually when hot, causing the engine to rock violently until it got going. It appeared to be a clutch cone issue with the clutch grabbing before engaging.

I changed the oil to a straight 30 grade which got rid of the problem, almost. It did it again, only for a second or so, when Havefun and I took MB out last weekend prior to our Lord Howe adventure in November.

I rang the Sole distributors, Headland Engineering in Brookvale who are always very helpful, and he said these gearboxes are very long lasting and to first adjust the gear lever by moving the gearbox casing to get equal movement ahead and astern. I removed the cable and found the lever had about half the movement ahead as it did astern. After adjustment, a hard to get at but simple process of loosening two bolts and rotating the side casing to get the right gear lever movement. it has made a real difference. She engages gear much better, idles along in gear ahead or astern.

It shows how important it is to make sure your engine/gearbox is set up as the manual requires it to be. It probably needs adjusting every couple of hundred hours, although the manual doesn't give a service schedule for it.

Slept on the mooring last night intending to go for a sail today but there is not much breeze at the moment

Here is 360 degrees of Port Huon while we wait to see if the breeze will happen

Regards Don

That's really lovely