Hi Donk
My fuel tank is under the floor I have three compartments the compartment nearest the stove cabinet is fuel the middle compartment water and just before the forward bulk head is a small compartment. Between the water and the forward compartment is a depth sounder / speed log
Hey Cisco
that jib track is not used once you fit a Furler it could be used for a storm jib.
When I remove the hatch cover I will also be removing the main sheet traveler off the hatch cover.
I will be fitting the main sheet into the cockpit mounting it off the mizzen there other Walker H28's down here set up like this also it make a better fit for a spray dodger later on the block on the boom will be move further back
I think Ill just put the Engine control back where it is for now see how it all works together
Had a great sail with my lovely wife. Morning Bird, the hull a bit dirty, moved well in about 15kts of breeze. I saw 6.5kts a couple of times and averaged 5.5.
We were looking for whales but must have been between pods.
Had a coffee and watched an episode of Blackadder WW1 back on the mooring.
A beautiful sailing yacht. There is no drama when sailing an S&S.
sort of busy this weekend refurbishing a few free laptops One for the boat But ended down at the boat this afternoon . Settled as to where I will place my solar controller as I will fit the engine gages and start stop system in the cockpit over the next month after making some sort of weather proof insert
Turned on my first LED light just to see how it looked in the dark
Mangrovefrog
Have you checked your water pump impellor this make me think its not pumping enough seawater though your exhaust?
sms me where you are this week want to drop off some ting for you
Impellor was cold once i shut it off, did get hot, close to 100 degrees.. what happens often when i put the revs up to 70 %.. its not cooling properly so i lower revs then pull it up again.. it can stay cool at full power but ive got to go inside to check the temp guage if that impellor is syphoning properly..
I was motoring for hours.. noticed the temp while making a cuppa.. reset throttle, half hour later i noticed drop in revs.. i guess all the fumes and black plastic smoke in engine compartment was strangling the old girl.. so i just bypassed the lock with the gooseneck hose whilst under sail then bought 2 meters of rubber exhaust for double loop fitted next day. Damn, was just getting motivated to doing something else.
Ive torn the whole waterworks down (300 hours) 6 months ago.. it is possible there is plastic debris caught in the gooseneck? And that raw water seacock dosent close properly!! Prolly dont open fully either... otherwise, its cooling well most of the time.. if that propellor wasnt pitched to push my tub along at 5.5 knots absolutely screaming, i prolly have had less trouble.
mgf
Not sure if this is relevant to your situation, but have seen this problem on a MV once before....
Even when the impeller may be in good condition; your inner metal walls on the pump can wear thus not providing adequate suction at low rpm. Some pumps you can rotate the outer plate, otherwise replacement can be done.
after destroying 6 steak knives and a really good fishing knife I finally removed the hatch cover fir refurbishment
36 years of collective dirt under it
I did a quick wiring job to add my engine battery to the solar controler yeaterday the controller was reading 12.4 volts after connection tonight after work it was reading 13.9 . Tomorrow I think the sun has decided that Queensland has had enough and will be out in Melbourne so should be interesting .
When I get the next sunny weekend down here Il put up some photo's of the reading from the controller while experimenting with shade on the panel .Ill try and mimic boom and mast shade see what volts I get
The panel is only temp fitted to the roof .
What Ive found so far is rain sits on the panels as I do not have enough slope for it to run off
By the way
It took me half an hour to work aout a way of fitting the hatch cover in my Mitsubishi lancer so I could shut the door
Its certainly possible impellor housing is worn sideways, time to discard the thin gasket and use silicon.. much appreciated sirjman and mind me for hogging this awesome post.
Scrubbed the slime off her dinghy's bottom, rowed out to her, said hello sweetheart, gave her a set of ring/open end spanners, started her engine up, put a couple of fenders out and rigged a couple of mooring lines on her starboard side, pulled in 13 metres of anchor chain till it was straight up and down, put her in ahead and drove her until the stem dipped when the anchor broke out, pulled the muddy anchor up and then drove her over to the outside finger of the marina and put her alongside starboard side to.
I then put rubber mats under her two bladder water tanks and filled the tanks with water and bled the plumbing. Filling the tanks proved what I had believed all along and that is that she needs another 100 litre water tank port side aft to balance her up and that 100 litres of water under the fwd bunk is probably not the best place to have it.
That done it was then time to lay the anchor and chain out on the marina and get the twist out of the chain caused by being anchored for too long in the one spot. The weed and mud on the chain and anchor had to be dealt with too.
A quick hose off of the uppers to get rid of the bulk of the bird poo and I put her back out on the pick.
A very satisfying afternoon just doing boat things.
Time not spent messing about in boats is wasted.
Not a lot have the flue or some thing thats not nice
Measured the hatch entrance one meter
ordred some aluminum composte panels 3mm thick white satin gloss there been dropped off already
Also took a couple of photos of the solar controller with a old seat cover thrown over one half Ill put those up now
13.8 is with the old seat cover thrown over the solar panel
The above photo is before I put the seat cover over the solar panel
I have a slight problem here me thinks Ill need to do so repair work what do you think Cisco and Donk
Also forgot I ran my solar panel wires in through the deck via under the hatch cover and ran them back to the controller all sealed up
Had a play with my leds treid a few spots beofre I place them I have dimmers on the four above and also a dimmer for the two below. Thought I better try them out before permanently fitting them
Im not a real expert on glass either Cisco. Ill be getting some advice thats for sure . Ill make sure she'll take more than a standard walker H28 before I'm finished
with this bad bit Cisco
Hi HG
I have looked at your photo's but I don't really understand what your concern is
I can see where the mast mounts above the bulkhead there is a slight depression in the deck
Is this what you are concerned about
When you talk about fitting stainless L brackets what would the purpose of them be
In the original brochure you sent me a while ago there is no compression post shown ?
Regards Don
HG
In the photo's the depression in the deck doesn't look that bad and unless you had a post directly under it you would expect to see something
You would imagine the 2 verticals on either side of the opening would be supporting a horizontal across the top that is taking the weight of the mast but it would have to be very substantial to show zero depression in this area
When you look at the size of the post under my mast I would imagine it would be hard to offer the same amount of support above a door opening although perhaps mine is bigger than what is required
It would be interesting getting the opinion of a shipwright before ripping the cover off inside
Regards Don
Hi HG
To be honest to me ( I have no experience building boats) looking at the photo's you posted it doesn't look too bad but you are in a much better position than me to judge
Regards Don