R, that might be the stuff that is as supple as fence wire, each batch will probably be different tho. It's not braid on braid, the core is a pile of long gibberish. There was some silver rope on my work boat that I suspect was from the same outlet that had zero Uv resistance

Select to expand quote

woko said..
R, that might be the stuff that is as supple as fence wire, each batch will probably be different tho. It's not braid on braid, the core is a pile of long gibberish. There was some silver rope on my work boat that I suspect was from the same outlet that had zero Uv resistance

Ok thanks I should have known better, will use it for "secondary" running rigging not halyards. Will get some of this;

www.sydneyropesupplies.com.au/product/10mm-offshore-xp-per-metre/

Update on the Hood23 rigging.

We've replaced the main and jib halyard with 10mm double braid poly and have hoisted some sails.

I'll try and post some pics if I can.

Also made up a main sheet and even braided an eye using a fid.

Also managed to raise and lower the mast a few times single handed using the main sheet connected to the fore stay and the fore stay anchor point on the bow.

It all went pretty smoothly!!

The next mod may be an attachment at the base of the mast for the boom to be used as a gin pole but realistically, it wasn't that hard without one.

The only issue we found was that the main sail seemed difficult to raise. I'm assuming the pulleys on the top of the mast were originally designed for the wire rope and the 10mm braid is a bit thick so we've ordered some 8mm.

According to a few sites on rigging, 8mm is suitable for our boat anyway.

Also all lines/sheets exit from the base of the mast and have to cross over the hatch to attach to the clam cleats ( which will soon be replaced with cam cleats ) so I think we need some pulley blocks attached on the side shroud anchor point in line with mast to allow the lines to travel around the hatch.






Looks like I can add pics but they are rotated for some reason.
I tried to rotate them before upload but they still load on their side.
Any help to upload them upright, would be appreciated

Select to expand quote

GREGTED22 said..
Update on the Hood23 rigging.

We've replaced the main and jib halyard with 10mm double braid poly and have hoisted some sails.

I'll try and post some pics if I can.

Also made up a main sheet and even braided an eye using a fid.

Also managed to raise and lower the mast a few times single handed using the main sheet connected to the fore stay and the fore stay anchor point on the bow.

It all went pretty smoothly!!

The next mod may be an attachment at the base of the mast for the boom to be used as a gin pole but realistically, it wasn't that hard without one.

The only issue we found was that the main sail seemed difficult to raise. I'm assuming the pulleys on the top of the mast were originally designed for the wire rope and the 10mm braid is a bit thick so we've ordered some 8mm.

According to a few sites on rigging, 8mm is suitable for our boat anyway.

Also all lines/sheets exit from the base of the mast and have to cross over the hatch to attach to the clam cleats ( which will soon be replaced with cam cleats ) so I think we need some pulley blocks attached on the side shroud anchor point in line with mast to allow the lines to travel around the hatch.






Looks like I can add pics but they are rotated for some reason.
I tried to rotate them before upload but they still load on their side.
Any help to upload them upright, would be appreciated

If you're going down to 8 millimetre line and replacing wire you might want to consider dyneema core spectra rather than double braid as it won't stretch as much. If you do that you might even be able to go down to 6 mm which will definitely go over the sheave in the top of your mast even if it was originally designed for wire- which it definitely was.

Also your jib seems to sit very high off the deck. I would consider reducing the length of the tack line so as to get the centre of effort down a bit. Either that or pick up a second hand sail which is a bit longer in the luff because that doesn't seem quite the right size for your boat.

Select to expand quote

GREGTED22 said..
Update on the Hood23 rigging.

We've replaced the main and jib halyard with 10mm double braid poly and have hoisted some sails.

I'll try and post some pics if I can.

Also made up a main sheet and even braided an eye using a fid.

Also managed to raise and lower the mast a few times single handed using the main sheet connected to the fore stay and the fore stay anchor point on the bow.

It all went pretty smoothly!!

The next mod may be an attachment at the base of the mast for the boom to be used as a gin pole but realistically, it wasn't that hard without one.

The only issue we found was that the main sail seemed difficult to raise. I'm assuming the pulleys on the top of the mast were originally designed for the wire rope and the 10mm braid is a bit thick so we've ordered some 8mm.

According to a few sites on rigging, 8mm is suitable for our boat anyway.

Also all lines/sheets exit from the base of the mast and have to cross over the hatch to attach to the clam cleats ( which will soon be replaced with cam cleats ) so I think we need some pulley blocks attached on the side shroud anchor point in line with mast to allow the lines to travel around the hatch.






Looks like I can add pics but they are rotated for some reason.
I tried to rotate them before upload but they still load on their side.
Any help to upload them upright, would be appreciated

Congrats with your excellent progress including the mast raising single handed. With your deck layout issues some helpful souls here may send photos of their optimised layouts;

m.facebook.com/groups/1498544600196125/

The jib in the photo certainly looks like an Etchells 22 jib and there is nothing wrong with that. It may have been set up with the added tack length of rope to allow the existing jib tracks to sheet it properly - so as to avoid the leech at the head from laying off too much. But as said above if you can set the jib tack right on the deck this would be better, also ensuring the slot between jib and main is not choked higher up. But it could need jib leads secured to the deck more forward than the present ones. E22 jibs need to be sheeted well down the leech due to their high aspect ratio. You could use jib leads secured further inboard also as long as you don't backwind the main. Be careful of making too many holes in the deck which is balsa cored - any holes in the deck need to be really well sealed against water ingress else the deck core will become water saturated and delaminate and go soft - you will be aware.

Select to expand quote

r13 said..

GREGTED22 said..
Update on the Hood23 rigging.

We've replaced the main and jib halyard with 10mm double braid poly and have hoisted some sails.

I'll try and post some pics if I can.

Also made up a main sheet and even braided an eye using a fid.

Also managed to raise and lower the mast a few times single handed using the main sheet connected to the fore stay and the fore stay anchor point on the bow.

It all went pretty smoothly!!

The next mod may be an attachment at the base of the mast for the boom to be used as a gin pole but realistically, it wasn't that hard without one.

The only issue we found was that the main sail seemed difficult to raise. I'm assuming the pulleys on the top of the mast were originally designed for the wire rope and the 10mm braid is a bit thick so we've ordered some 8mm.

According to a few sites on rigging, 8mm is suitable for our boat anyway.

Also all lines/sheets exit from the base of the mast and have to cross over the hatch to attach to the clam cleats ( which will soon be replaced with cam cleats ) so I think we need some pulley blocks attached on the side shroud anchor point in line with mast to allow the lines to travel around the hatch.






Looks like I can add pics but they are rotated for some reason.
I tried to rotate them before upload but they still load on their side.
Any help to upload them upright, would be appreciated

Congrats with your excellent progress including the mast raising single handed. With your deck layout issues some helpful souls here may send photos of their optimised layouts;

m.facebook.com/groups/1498544600196125/

The jib in the photo certainly looks like an Etchells 22 jib and there is nothing wrong with that. It may have been set up with the added tack length of rope to allow the existing jib tracks to sheet it properly - so as to avoid the leech at the head from laying off too much. But as said above if you can set the jib tack right on the deck this would be better, also ensuring the slot between jib and main is not choked higher up. But it could need jib leads secured to the deck more forward than the present ones. E22 jibs need to be sheeted well down the leech due to their high aspect ratio. You could use jib leads secured further inboard also as long as you don't backwind the main. Be careful of making too many holes in the deck which is balsa cored - any holes in the deck need to be really well sealed against water ingress else the deck core will become water saturated and delaminate and go soft - you will be aware.

R13 I thought the Hood deck was done with the wrong kind of foam which caused the squishy decks ?

Have read a lot over the years about Hood23s with soft decks due to the use of end grain balsa - first came across the problem in the early 80s when I was asked about water supposedly not penetrating through the end grain of the balsa due to the resin soak. This is somewhat true but the real problem starts with the glass skins delaminating and the water has a very easy path. See here chapter and verse on TP52 deck replacement due to the issue.

www.sail-world.com/news/234311/J-Bird-III-Restoration-Series-Part-7

Good repair article here;

www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/replacing-damaged-balsa-core/

I see here H23s with foam core decks mentioned. So it may be that the early H23s had end grain balsa cored decks and they changed to foam somewhere along the total build numbers timeline. Either (end grain balsa or foam) can be made to work but if there is any water ingress through poorly bedded fittings or transitions at ply inserts needed under mast steps etc then it needs to be immediately rectified.

www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Hood-23s?page=1