I got the boat off the mooring and onto the public jetty for a few hours today. I emptied the aft cabin of surfboards, wetsuits, barge board, large genoa etc and loaded them into the car out of the way. Then I removed the mattresses and aft bunk ply bases so I had access to everything under there. After a bit of poking around it was obvious that I had no room anywhere to bring a 75mm duct in from the back lazurettes or quadrant space, The only space is not high enough and already pretty crowded with hoses and cables. Below is a shot of the aft cabin from the galley.
So the heater will have to be inside with a longer than ideal exhaust run. Below is a shot of the area under the bunk where I'll need to route the exhaust. It's looking to the aft of the boat.
This is the only place that I can come through - where these hoses and cables are. That's a 150 litre water tank in the foreground that sits under the bed. The hoses are from right to left; water overflow, water filler, bundle of electric cables, morse cables, engine driven bilge pump hose, electric bilge pump hose, engine exhaust etc. A bit of cutting and shunting and I'll be able to shift the RH few to the left and I'll have enough space to put the exhaust through there I think. I'll size the exhaust pipe up to 32 mm to cope with the longer run (probably 3 meters in all including the loop).
Here's where the heater will sit, port side.
With it hard up against the top molding, I have about 70 mm between the bottom of the exhaust outlet to put a bend. I won't have it hard up though as I'll probably build a SS carrier for the heater in a C shape, the heater will sit on the bottom of the C, the vertical section will be the mount onto the wall, with the upper return on the C over the top of the heater to act as an additional heat shield. So once all that is done and a bit of an air gap top and bottom, I'll be lucky to get 50-55 mm for the exhaust bend, it should just be enough I think.
The simplest ducting option is to go straight from the heater and out that panel marked with the X and just leave the aft cabin door open so it blows into the galley and salon.
Note the existing vent for to air under bed.
The alternative is to Y off and bring another duct through the bulkhead to the right and into that space below the drawers. Currently that's a drop down door, so I could mount a vent into the door. I like this idea because it allows me to put a closable vent in the aft cabin and the permanently open vent in the galley. That also means I can close the aft cabin door and still have heat into the living area. Unfortunately this is about as far as I could bring a ducting run though, the next door in the foreground and below the oven has a wall with the gas shut off valve and piping mounted on it. Looks like a real hassle to relocate and would only gain another 30 cm of ducting anyway.
So I still need to clear out the port lazurette so I can climb in and verify that I can route the exhaust this way, that's my next job. We've got a few days of SE rain kicking in, so it'll realistically be Thursday before I can get another go at it. Fun and Games!
You could mount the heater rotated 90 degrees as long as glow plug is on top - 90 degrees anti clockwise from its current position. That'd give you more room to move with the exhaust, space for exhaust insulation, and allow for ventilation around the heater. Alternately, and especially if the exhaust will exit higher than the heater, you could fit a right angle joint with condensation drain which would use less space than a hose bend.
Select to expand quoteBushdog said..
You could mount the heater rotated 90 degrees as long as glow plug is on top - 90 degrees anti clockwise from its current position. That'd give you more room to move with the exhaust, space for exhaust insulation, and allow for ventilation around the heater. Alternately, and especially if the exhaust will exit higher than the heater, you could fit a right angle joint with condensation drain which would use less space than a hose bend.
Hi Bushdog, thanks, yeah good thinking. I had posted a question to the Chinese Diesel Heaters facebook group to see if I could mount it sideways, I was uncertain. A couple of people have also answered that you can mount them sideways with glow plug on top as you mentioned. It would give me a lot more room to move as you suggest, and yes I'd need that drain at that point.
It's a tough call. Like I mentioned I moved mine 3 times. It is possible to fit it midships with exhaust exiting through hull or deck.
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
It's a tough call. Like I mentioned I moved mine 3 times. It is possible to fit it midships with exhaust exiting through hull or deck.
I considered a midships outlet, but Mawson dances around heaps on anchor and it would often present the opening to the wind direction, I just think that would be asking for trouble given what I've read about their sensitivity to back pressure. I guess a deck fitting might work, but I've already purchased the transom skin fitting.
I've decided to upsize the exhaust run from the 24mm to 38mm. I've sourced (locally) some high quality spiral wound flexible SS tubing and thin walled SS elbows and reducers (for adapting to the 24mm outlets on the unit and the skin fitting) and a SS nipple to weld onto the elbow for the condensate drain. Just need to track down an appropriate sized straight through silencer and I'm set.
Select to expand quoteWander66 said..
What's really tough is winter in Queensland 
Hope you get sunburn! 
www.everythingcaravans.com.au/collections/autoterm-1/products/autoterm-air-exhaust-silencer-with-mounting-kit-compact-design
not cheap but it's an in-line one. This mob's website has lots of useful info. Exploded diagrams, installation info etc.
Select to expand quoteBushdog said..
www.everythingcaravans.com.au/collections/autoterm-1/products/autoterm-air-exhaust-silencer-with-mounting-kit-compact-design
not cheap but it's an in-line one. This mob's website has lots of useful info. Exploded diagrams, installation info etc.
Thanks I'll check them out. I found this Redback one too that has 38mm spigotts to suit the flexible pipe I'll be using. Not sure of the material though, I've sent them a query.
www.exhaustshop.com.au/products/9-x-1-1-2-hot-dog-hd9150-8058#shipping
That's a good site Bushdog. I'll probably order some other bits from them at least.
Select to expand quote2bish said..southace said..
It's a tough call. Like I mentioned I moved mine 3 times. It is possible to fit it midships with exhaust exiting through hull or deck.
I considered a midships outlet, but Mawson dances around heaps on anchor and it would often present the opening to the wind direction, I just think that would be asking for trouble given what I've read about their sensitivity to back pressure. I guess a deck fitting might work, but I've already purchased the transom skin fitting.
I've decided to upsize the exhaust run from the 24mm to 38mm. I've sourced (locally) some high quality spiral wound flexible SS tubing and thin walled SS elbows and reducers (for adapting to the 24mm outlets on the unit and the skin fitting) and a SS nipple to weld onto the elbow for the condensate drain. Just need to track down an appropriate sized straight through silencer and I'm set.
I can sit in the cockpit and we can't hardly hear the exhaust with out the silencer fitted. I have also run the heater with strong northerly 20 to 25 knots (I'm south facing Berth) with no change to operation. You could still look at other options other than the back cabin , there is another local that fitted one in the bow under the v berth with the exhaust out the side of the hull.
Select to expand quotesouthace said..2bish said..southace said..
It's a tough call. Like I mentioned I moved mine 3 times. It is possible to fit it midships with exhaust exiting through hull or deck.
I considered a midships outlet, but Mawson dances around heaps on anchor and it would often present the opening to the wind direction, I just think that would be asking for trouble given what I've read about their sensitivity to back pressure. I guess a deck fitting might work, but I've already purchased the transom skin fitting.
I've decided to upsize the exhaust run from the 24mm to 38mm. I've sourced (locally) some high quality spiral wound flexible SS tubing and thin walled SS elbows and reducers (for adapting to the 24mm outlets on the unit and the skin fitting) and a SS nipple to weld onto the elbow for the condensate drain. Just need to track down an appropriate sized straight through silencer and I'm set.
I can sit in the cockpit and we can't hardly hear the exhaust with out the silencer fitted. I have also run the heater with strong northerly 20 to 25 knots (I'm south facing Berth) with no change to operation. You could still look at other options other than the back cabin , there is another local that fitted one in the bow under the v berth with the exhaust out the side of the hull.
Ok thanks, good to hear and that may offer an alternative. I've got the boat booked into a work berth at Kettering from Thursday. A mate is coming down to have a look with me, two heads and all.
T Brackets and mounting plate are made, thanks to Chris for welding up the brackets for me. I test fitted it today so I could mark the position for the mounting plate holes where it bolts onto the T bracket hangers. All disassembled again now and Ive got it back home to drill these final holes and put together some vibration dampeners.
Ok so that turned into a mission, but we're happily enjoying the fruits of my labour half way through a 5 day cruise in the lower Chanel/Bruny Island area. The heater is a game changer for us, we won't hesitate to head out in winter now.
I ended up fitting the heater on it's side in the aft cabin, under a bunk on the port side. I wasn't happy with some compromises I'd have to make to route the exhaust out the side of the hull (shortest route), so I made the decision to go out the back into the port lazarette with the skin fitting on the port back quarter. Essentially it follows the boats wet exhaust route and exits above it's skin fitting. Doing this meant a 4 meter run for the exhaust though, and a 3 meter run for the combustion air intake, so I bit the bullet and paid extra to upsize these components. I went up to 38mm for both, using flexible spiral wound ss pipe for the exhaust and a flex spiral plastic pipe for the intake.
As I had to adapt from 24mm up to the 38mm, I had a few ss adapters welded up from some 1.6mm wall ss fittings I brought. A 45 degree elbow with a ss nipple welded to it made a handy direction change and installation point for a condensate coil on the exhaust at it's lowest point.
Apologies for incorrectly rotated shots, this platform is a nightmare for photos.
Yesterday evening in Mickey's Bay, Bruny Island.
Select to expand quote2bish said..
Ok so that turned into a mission, but we're happily enjoying the fruits of my labour half way through a 5 day cruise in the lower Chanel/Bruny Island area. The heater is a game changer for us, we won't hesitate to head out in winter now.
I ended up fitting the heater on it's side in the aft cabin, under a bunk on the port side. I wasn't happy with some compromises I'd have to make to route the exhaust out the side of the hull (shortest route), so I made the decision to go out the back into the port lazarette with the skin fitting on the port back quarter. Essentially it follows the boats wet exhaust route and exits above it's skin fitting. Doing this meant a 4 meter run for the exhaust though, and a 3 meter run for the combustion air intake, so I bit the bullet and paid extra to upsize these components. I went up to 38mm for both, using flexible spiral wound ss pipe for the exhaust and a flex spiral plastic pipe for the intake.
As I had to adapt from 24mm up to the 38mm, I had a few ss adapters welded up from some 1.6mm wall ss fittings I brought. A 45 degree elbow with a ss nipple welded to it made a handy direction change and installation point for a condensate coil on the exhaust at it's lowest point.
Apologies for incorrectly rotated shots, this platform is a nightmare for photos.
Yesterday evening in Mickey's Bay, Bruny Island.
Ok so it's up and running? Nice and warm?
Ok so that turned into a mission,
Now, where have I heard that before?
I think you have done a fantastic job.
gary
In the past 10 days I have used 50 litres from my main engine deisel supply. You certantly need to keep a eye on your usage. The new boat the heater is plumbed directly into 600 litres of diesel shouldn't run out in a hurry!
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
In the past 10 days I have used 50 litres from my main engine deisel supply. You certantly need to keep a eye on your usage. The new boat the heater is plumbed directly into 600 litres of diesel shouldn't run out in a hurry!
Yes it's up and running, we've been using it since Wednesday. I've also plumbed into the main engine tank and yes I'm keeping a close eye on the gauge + I have some spare fuel onboard. With the calm conditions, we've done a lot of motoring and the gauge still hasn't dropped much. We turn it off overnight, as we don't like sleeping too hot. Typically we turn it on, burn it on full for bit and then drop it back to it's lowest setting, that's ample for the boat. Now and then I give it a 10-15 min. Full temperature blast before I shut it down to burn off any soot build up. It's behaving very well, no smoke at all. I felt very smug turning it on with the remote, while in the cockpit, sailing to our night anchorage after a lunch and walk on Partridge Island today. Wooo Hooo!
Select to expand quotesouthace said..
In the past 10 days I have used 50 litres from my main engine deisel supply. You certantly need to keep a eye on your usage. The new boat the heater is plumbed directly into 600 litres of diesel shouldn't run out in a hurry!
Hi SA, is that 50 litres for the heater - so how did that work out hours per litre ?
regards,
allan
Select to expand quotegarymalmgren said..
Ok so that turned into a mission,
Now, where have I heard that before?
I think you have done a fantastic job.
gary
Thanks Gary, it felt good to replace a lot of the kit components with more substantial parts too, some of that stuff is pretty rubbishy.
Ha ha, yes it seems like the words "job on the boat" and "mission" are synonymous - for me anyway....
I still have to route the LCD controller wiring, what do you reckon, another week??
Select to expand quoteDatawiz said..southace said..
In the past 10 days I have used 50 litres from my main engine deisel supply. You certantly need to keep a eye on your usage. The new boat the heater is plumbed directly into 600 litres of diesel shouldn't run out in a hurry!
Hi SA, is that 50 litres for the heater - so how did that work out hours per litre ?
regards,
allan
I refulled my main engine tank 10 days ago. My log book shows I have drawn 5 x 10 litres into the day heater tank, if my math is correct that should be 50 litres pulled from 300 litres. It's about 200ml per hour.
Regards
southace
Select to expand quote2bish said..garymalmgren said..
Ok so that turned into a mission,
Now, where have I heard that before?
I think you have done a fantastic job.
gary
Thanks Gary, it felt good to replace a lot of the kit components with more substantial parts too, some of that stuff is pretty rubbishy.
Ha ha, yes it seems like the words "job on the boat" and "mission" are synonymous - for me anyway....
I still have to route the LCD controller wiring, what do you reckon, another week??
Is not hard to re-route the controller. I still don't use the remote. Intresting how you ducted the back of the heater back into the cabin?
I've got a spot between the drawers and aft cabin bulkhead where I can route the controller. I just ran out of time to complete the job. I've got some new cable for it ready to go. I'm tempted to move the controller wire plug closer to the heater end of the loom, but a simple rotary style controller and mount that instead of the LCD one. That way I can still plug the LCD controller in for trouble shooting or tuning. We've opted to use the controller in the hertz mode rather than the thermostat mode anyway, that gives us much better control. What mode are you using yours in?
Yes the heating air intake is in the aft cabin at floor level. We have five small ports in that aft cabin, so I just leave one cracked open to draw in fresh air, it seems to work well, and that'd just 100mm ducting and a vent from Bunnings, both inexpensive.
Select to expand quote2bish said..
I've got a spot between the drawers and aft cabin bulkhead where I can route the controller. I just ran out of time to complete the job. I've got some new cable for it ready to go. I'm tempted to move the controller wire plug closer to the heater end of the loom, but a simple rotary style controller and mount that instead of the LCD one. That way I can still plug the LCD controller in for trouble shooting or tuning. We've opted to use the controller in the hertz mode rather than the thermostat mode anyway, that gives us much better control. What mode are you using yours in?
Yes the heating air intake is in the aft cabin at floor level. We have five small ports in that aft cabin, so I just leave one cracked open to draw in fresh air, it seems to work well, and that'd just 100mm ducting and a vent from Bunnings, both inexpensive.
I use it in hertz mode. Around 2 hertz once cabin is warm and 3 or so hertz when it's really cold. The second speed fan doesn't cut in until about over 3 hertz. There is away to change the fan speed settings but I prefer not to change the settings.
Select to expand quotesouthace said..2bish said..
I've got a spot between the drawers and aft cabin bulkhead where I can route the controller. I just ran out of time to complete the job. I've got some new cable for it ready to go. I'm tempted to move the controller wire plug closer to the heater end of the loom, but a simple rotary style controller and mount that instead of the LCD one. That way I can still plug the LCD controller in for trouble shooting or tuning. We've opted to use the controller in the hertz mode rather than the thermostat mode anyway, that gives us much better control. What mode are you using yours in?
Yes the heating air intake is in the aft cabin at floor level. We have five small ports in that aft cabin, so I just leave one cracked open to draw in fresh air, it seems to work well, and that'd just 100mm ducting and a vent from Bunnings, both inexpensive.
I use it in hertz mode. Around 2 hertz once cabin is warm and 3 or so hertz when it's really cold. The second speed fan doesn't cut in until about over 3 hertz. There is away to change the fan speed settings but I prefer not to change the settings.
Yes I think using the hertz settings is the way to go. We're mostly ok using high 5.5 on startup for 10 mins and then knocking it back to the 1.6 lowest setting, occasionally giving it a burst to 2 or 2.5 if we're in and out of the boat a bit. Thanks for the inspiration SA, I'm very happy I did the install.
Select to expand quote2bish said..southace said..2bish said..
I've got a spot between the drawers and aft cabin bulkhead where I can route the controller. I just ran out of time to complete the job. I've got some new cable for it ready to go. I'm tempted to move the controller wire plug closer to the heater end of the loom, but a simple rotary style controller and mount that instead of the LCD one. That way I can still plug the LCD controller in for trouble shooting or tuning. We've opted to use the controller in the hertz mode rather than the thermostat mode anyway, that gives us much better control. What mode are you using yours in?
Yes the heating air intake is in the aft cabin at floor level. We have five small ports in that aft cabin, so I just leave one cracked open to draw in fresh air, it seems to work well, and that'd just 100mm ducting and a vent from Bunnings, both inexpensive.
I use it in hertz mode. Around 2 hertz once cabin is warm and 3 or so hertz when it's really cold. The second speed fan doesn't cut in until about over 3 hertz. There is away to change the fan speed settings but I prefer not to change the settings.
Yes I think using the hertz settings is the way to go. We're mostly ok using high 5.5 on startup for 10 mins and then knocking it back to the 1.6 lowest setting, occasionally giving it a burst to 2 or 2.5 if we're in and out of the boat a bit. Thanks for the inspiration SA, I'm very happy I did the install.
I have a my first problem! The washing machine plastic grey water hose fell onto the S/S hotpipe and melted onto the pipe. Now I have the smell off burning plastic while using the heater. Seems impossible to clean off so I may need to change the hotpipe over with some spare I have. Gotta love boats!
Select to expand quotesouthace said..2bish said..southace said..2bish said..
I've got a spot between the drawers and aft cabin bulkhead where I can route the controller. I just ran out of time to complete the job. I've got some new cable for it ready to go. I'm tempted to move the controller wire plug closer to the heater end of the loom, but a simple rotary style controller and mount that instead of the LCD one. That way I can still plug the LCD controller in for trouble shooting or tuning. We've opted to use the controller in the hertz mode rather than the thermostat mode anyway, that gives us much better control. What mode are you using yours in?
Yes the heating air intake is in the aft cabin at floor level. We have five small ports in that aft cabin, so I just leave one cracked open to draw in fresh air, it seems to work well, and that'd just 100mm ducting and a vent from Bunnings, both inexpensive.
I use it in hertz mode. Around 2 hertz once cabin is warm and 3 or so hertz when it's really cold. The second speed fan doesn't cut in until about over 3 hertz. There is away to change the fan speed settings but I prefer not to change the settings.
Yes I think using the hertz settings is the way to go. We're mostly ok using high 5.5 on startup for 10 mins and then knocking it back to the 1.6 lowest setting, occasionally giving it a burst to 2 or 2.5 if we're in and out of the boat a bit. Thanks for the inspiration SA, I'm very happy I did the install.
I have a my first problem! The washing machine plastic grey water hose fell onto the S/S hotpipe and melted onto the pipe. Now I have the smell off burning plastic while using the heater. Seems impossible to clean off so I may need to change the hotpipe over with some spare I have. Gotta love boats!
Sounds like the best option, hard to get rid of those smells otherwise. I thought we had a fan noise problem this afternoon. Turns out it was a fish farm, some of their water works sounds travel a long distance and really resonate through the hull. We're in Randalls Bay for the night after a lovely sail this arvo. There's a fish farm sitting out in the mouth of the Huon River, not far from us, that's where the occasional noise is coming from. It's ok now, but hopefully doesn't start up in the middle of the night. Partridge Island is the worst. The first time we moored there for the night we thought the boat was taking water, there was a really loud rushing water sound. I believe it's from a fresh water pipeline they have running out of Dover across the channel the farms, probably 7-8 km long. It's made that anchorage unusable for us. Sooner we kick them offshore/onshore the better I reckon, they're just turning a really special environment into an industrial estate.
Another thing I've noticed with the controller is that when I turn the heater on, once it's done it start up properly and settled down, it will return to whatever temperature it was when last turned off. So if I turn it off when on low 1.6 htz, it goes back to that.
Select to expand quote2bish said..southace said..2bish said..southace said..2bish said..
I've got a spot between the drawers and aft cabin bulkhead where I can route the controller. I just ran out of time to complete the job. I've got some new cable for it ready to go. I'm tempted to move the controller wire plug closer to the heater end of the loom, but a simple rotary style controller and mount that instead of the LCD one. That way I can still plug the LCD controller in for trouble shooting or tuning. We've opted to use the controller in the hertz mode rather than the thermostat mode anyway, that gives us much better control. What mode are you using yours in?
Yes the heating air intake is in the aft cabin at floor level. We have five small ports in that aft cabin, so I just leave one cracked open to draw in fresh air, it seems to work well, and that'd just 100mm ducting and a vent from Bunnings, both inexpensive.
I use it in hertz mode. Around 2 hertz once cabin is warm and 3 or so hertz when it's really cold. The second speed fan doesn't cut in until about over 3 hertz. There is away to change the fan speed settings but I prefer not to change the settings.
Yes I think using the hertz settings is the way to go. We're mostly ok using high 5.5 on startup for 10 mins and then knocking it back to the 1.6 lowest setting, occasionally giving it a burst to 2 or 2.5 if we're in and out of the boat a bit. Thanks for the inspiration SA, I'm very happy I did the install.
I have a my first problem! The washing machine plastic grey water hose fell onto the S/S hotpipe and melted onto the pipe. Now I have the smell off burning plastic while using the heater. Seems impossible to clean off so I may need to change the hotpipe over with some spare I have. Gotta love boats!
Sounds like the best option, hard to get rid of those smells otherwise. I thought we had a fan noise problem this afternoon. Turns out it was a fish farm, some of their water works sounds travel a long distance and really resonate through the hull. We're in Randalls Bay for the night after a lovely sail this arvo. There's a fish farm sitting out in the mouth of the Huon River, not far from us, that's where the occasional noise is coming from. It's ok now, but hopefully doesn't start up in the middle of the night. Partridge Island is the worst. The first time we moored there for the night we thought the boat was taking water, there was a really loud rushing water sound. I believe it's from a fresh water pipeline they have running out of Dover across the channel the farms, probably 7-8 km long. It's made that anchorage unusable for us. Sooner we kick them offshore/onshore the better I reckon, they're just turning a really special environment into an industrial estate.
Another thing I've noticed with the controller is that when I turn the heater on, once it's done it start up properly and settled down, it will return to whatever temperature it was when last turned off. So if I turn it off when on low 1.6 htz, it goes back to that.
Yes I get it with the controller. Same as mine not a bad feature. I think there's a timer to turn the heater on as well but I haven't bothered trying to translate the Chinese English interpretation with the Manuel just to hard.
The new boat has a original German made heater with what I can see a simular hot pipe run length as yours. Will be intresting to see how it performs. Also has about 6 ducts throughout including the midships head and shower.
I have seen those fish farms in tassie , the port lincoln tuna farms are mostly out in the gulf but we have growing mulloway, kingfish and salmon farms around the bays and islands and growing bigger all the time!
Select to expand quotesouthace said..2bish said..southace said..2bish said..southace said..2bish said..
I've got a spot between the drawers and aft cabin bulkhead where I can route the controller. I just ran out of time to complete the job. I've got some new cable for it ready to go. I'm tempted to move the controller wire plug closer to the heater end of the loom, but a simple rotary style controller and mount that instead of the LCD one. That way I can still plug the LCD controller in for trouble shooting or tuning. We've opted to use the controller in the hertz mode rather than the thermostat mode anyway, that gives us much better control. What mode are you using yours in?
Yes the heating air intake is in the aft cabin at floor level. We have five small ports in that aft cabin, so I just leave one cracked open to draw in fresh air, it seems to work well, and that'd just 100mm ducting and a vent from Bunnings, both inexpensive.
I use it in hertz mode. Around 2 hertz once cabin is warm and 3 or so hertz when it's really cold. The second speed fan doesn't cut in until about over 3 hertz. There is away to change the fan speed settings but I prefer not to change the settings.
Yes I think using the hertz settings is the way to go. We're mostly ok using high 5.5 on startup for 10 mins and then knocking it back to the 1.6 lowest setting, occasionally giving it a burst to 2 or 2.5 if we're in and out of the boat a bit. Thanks for the inspiration SA, I'm very happy I did the install.
I have a my first problem! The washing machine plastic grey water hose fell onto the S/S hotpipe and melted onto the pipe. Now I have the smell off burning plastic while using the heater. Seems impossible to clean off so I may need to change the hotpipe over with some spare I have. Gotta love boats!
Sounds like the best option, hard to get rid of those smells otherwise. I thought we had a fan noise problem this afternoon. Turns out it was a fish farm, some of their water works sounds travel a long distance and really resonate through the hull. We're in Randalls Bay for the night after a lovely sail this arvo. There's a fish farm sitting out in the mouth of the Huon River, not far from us, that's where the occasional noise is coming from. It's ok now, but hopefully doesn't start up in the middle of the night. Partridge Island is the worst. The first time we moored there for the night we thought the boat was taking water, there was a really loud rushing water sound. I believe it's from a fresh water pipeline they have running out of Dover across the channel the farms, probably 7-8 km long. It's made that anchorage unusable for us. Sooner we kick them offshore/onshore the better I reckon, they're just turning a really special environment into an industrial estate.
Another thing I've noticed with the controller is that when I turn the heater on, once it's done it start up properly and settled down, it will return to whatever temperature it was when last turned off. So if I turn it off when on low 1.6 htz, it goes back to that.
Yes I get it with the controller. Same as mine not a bad feature. I think there's a timer to turn the heater on as well but I haven't bothered trying to translate the Chinese English interpretation with the Manuel just to hard.
The new boat has a original German made heater with what I can see a simular hot pipe run length as yours. Will be intresting to see how it performs. Also has about 6 ducts throughout including the midships head and shower.
I have seen those fish farms in tassie , the port lincoln tuna farms are mostly out in the gulf but we have growing mulloway, kingfish and salmon farms around the bays and islands and growing bigger all the time!
I envy you having all those outlets. After a shower tonight, I was imagining how nice it would be to have an outlet in there to dry it out. I might have to get creative and try to duct into there as well. I also wish I could get one up to the v-berth.
It's a warmer night down here tonight at 10-11 degrees and I was finding the 1.6 setting a bit warm and having to moderate it with a part open port and hatch. So I dived into the locked settings and reset the minimum down to 0.8 htz. That's working really well. Now I can run it between 0.8 and 5.5.
