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emmafoils said..bigtone667 said..
My experience is to pull onto the wave and immediately de-power and turn onto the wave face and push the front of board down with my front foot to get lift and speed heading off down the line.
Or
I head out to wave and carve left or right onto wave face, the wave will give you a big lift and heaps of speed as you attempt to head down the line of the wave. Pretty easy to end up five metres in front of the wave. I immediately de-power and push the front of board down with my front foot to get lift and speed heading off down the line.
This is helpful, thanks. I guess it depends of how the foil is setup but I find that when I start going down a steep face, I need more BACK foot pressure, otherwise, the nose of my board dives into the water. Curious.
That's why it is important to avoid travelling straight down the face the wave. You end up with too much speed and a fun time finding the right board angle and mast depth to survived it.
If I am going straight down the face of the wave, I always try visualise my position relative to the angle of wave and I try and make my board perpendicular to the angle of the wave at that point, ie lots of front foot pressure as soon as I head down the wave with pressure quickly easing as I head out to the front of the wave.
It happened to me a lot when I first started hooking into waves on foils like the xeeko carver and spitfire cause I could not get the speed under control.
So I solved the problem for myself by going to a bigger slower SUP wing. Not as fast onto the wave, but once there, much easier to turn and head down line (still get un-controllable down the wave speeds on the odd occasion).