For several months I was looking for the new board but was not able to find suitable for myself: the price was too heigh or I the dimensions were not right. So I decided to try to make my own board. I do not expect to create a miracle but why not to try something new.
I have seen that some of DIY fans are using some software for designing the boards. May be you could suggest not very fancy 3D modeling tool for the board design?

Shape3Dwww.shape3d.com/

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FranP said..
Shape3Dwww.shape3d.com/

Thank you. I will give it a try.

Given that a foil board can be such a simple shape, yet really hard to do a good solid track install for a first timer..... i suggest not learning a shaping program and paying heaps to have it machined (or paying the fee for full version just to be able to print templates)

You will shape a block of styro before learning shape3D

I used TLAR for mine. "That looks about right..."

You say you want to "make" your first board. I don't understand how you will make a board using software? Do you mean you will get one CNCed shaped then take it to someone to lay up? If you want to make your first board just grab a saw, 600mm length of wood with 80grit sandpaper & start shaping. The shape will evolve before your eyes & be far more satisfying.

I have some ideas in my head. But I thought that it would be good to play with the shape using 3D and after shape by hand.
When I make my furniture, I sometimes make 3D model using SketchUp to see drawbacks of my concept or ideas. So that in the model I can see places where connections do not fit or some other method of joining must be used. It saves time and material.

But its far more simple, there cant be bits that dont fit.
900 to 1000 of flat, some even nose rocker and some bevel on the rails up front and you are 75% done
Spend your few hours of CAD time on watching how to shape a board on youtube instead. Will be far more valuable to learn how to shape.

Do you have a source of various densities of EPS and a source of thick PVC like divinycell etc?

I am planning to use XPS Finnfoam FI-300, 2500x600x100mm, closed cell. It has resistance to compression of ?300 kPa. So I thought if I would glue 2 pcs together, it would be enought to shape board of around 2000x600x150mm.
finnfoam.com/products/finnfoam-insulation-panels/flat-edge/
It should be suitable for the board, or not?

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Gencion said..
I am planning to use XPS Finnfoam FI-300, 2500x600x100mm, closed cell. It has resistance to compression of ?300 kPa. So I thought if I would glue 2 pcs together, it would be enought to shape board of around 2000x600x150mm.
finnfoam.com/products/finnfoam-insulation-panels/flat-edge/
It should be suitable for the board, or not?

a 2m long board should be narrower than 60cm... I'd recommend you to try 51 cm (20 inch) or less

I am thinking to take AK phaser shape, to make it narrower and rear part something like Kalama E3 or gong cruzader point. I am thinking of one board solution for light asthmatic lake winds and for strong wings.
In order not to make it very tippy, it should be thin enough and as low to the waterline as possible. Or I am wrong? It's like canoe. The higher the seat is, the more unstable it is.

Piece of paper and a pencil for the design phase and get all the 3D views you want.

And two pieces of foam so you have one to practice with and the second for your final design if you f*** the first one up.

Don't make it more complex than it needs to be a wing board is just a launch platform nothing more.

Something I learned with building my own boards you're going to have designs that you don't like so try not to put too much time into the overall product.

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Gencion said..
In order not to make it very tippy, it should be thin enough and as low to the waterline as possible. Or I am wrong? It's like canoe. The higher the seat is, the more unstable it is.

You are correct. I once added a platform with about 3 cm in thickness to a board that was nice and stable. The goal was to make it wider, for more leverage over the foil. But the side effect was to make the board a lot tippier.

BTW, I think using software for designing your board is a great idea. I have used AKUShaper for two wing boards that came out great. The first one was based on images of an existing board as a starting point. I printed the outlines and shaped it by hand. For the second one, I ordered the (partially) CNC-cut blank from Greenlight Surf Supply. They only cut the outline and put in a stringer, so you still need to shape the rails rails and underwater and deck contours (I used double concaves in front). I'm currently considering using them again for a long and relatively narrow wing board. The only thing that would keep me from using them is the cost for freight shipping the blank ($300 US or so). That was not an issue for the last board because it was short enough for regular carriers. I'd probably just pick up the blank for a longer board on a trip from Hatteras or so.