Anyone got a link to harness hook file?
Cheers

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goggo said..
Anyone got a link to harness hook file?
Cheers

Yeh but trying to work how I send it to you. Any ideas? I'll try amd email you a link. Alternatively I'm sure there must be one on Thingiverse

www.thingiverse.com/walter/collections/foiling
this from a guy on Standupzone

Kane de Wilde has two harness hook models in the same Google Drive folder that has the foil shim STLs. I assume it's intentionally shared and the link is still on his site on this page:

kdfoils.myshopify.com/collections/extras/products/shim-pack

I have considered designing one, but I don't use a harness. Maybe some day. I would design it so that it can be installed without having to open the strap (so at least a 2-part design, maybe more).

Cheers all, had a moment at work and www.thingiverse.com/thing:5425008

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goggo said..
Cheers all, had a moment at work and www.thingiverse.com/thing:5425008

Went out yesterday on old 7m, fell off hooked in, snap.

I've been using this.. and I like it.

It's not 3D printed but it works well.

It is called The Nug

rideengine.com.au/collections/harness-parts-accessories/products/the-nug

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goggo said..

Went out yesterday on old 7m, fell off hooked in, snap.

It looks like it was printed with a sparse infill pattern? I think this design needs to be printed solid (100% infill) for this kind of application, preferably in TPU or nylon. PETG will probably be fine too. I uploaded that design so I added another version that's thicker and might work better in other plastics, but it's still likely to break just as quickly if it's mostly hollow. It may take some time for the newly added file to show up.

I tested the one I printed in TPU and it will bend enough to release with approximately 120-150lbs (55-68kg) of force over a few seconds, but it doesn't break. That has been more than strong enough for my weight (160lbs, 72kg), I would actually prefer it release when I wipe out but it doesn't.

www.thingiverse.com/thing:4842853
The one I was using yesterday.

Thanks all, Got to try the blue hook paired with PPC 5.8, way better in all respects compared with the Gong Condor (1st gen 7m), had the feeling my army 5.5 would have been a better wing choice for me but that PPC gear is so nice.
May cut a hook,
Out of plastic bread board or try another print job with out narrow bits.

My mate made me this one I've been using it since last summer on and off very happy with this one

I don't understand why more people don't use windsurf harnesses. I've got a low profile, freestyle harness and I simply unhook the spreader bar if I need to lie on the board and paddle. It's really robust and I can comfortably load it right up like I would windfoiling or windsurfing. I'm hooked in most of the time now unless I'm gybing, jumping or on a wave.

I can't imagine using a belt with a plastic hook. Doesn't a belt dig into your back?

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simonp65 said..
I don't understand why more people don't use windsurf harnesses. I've got a low profile, freestyle harness and I simply unhook the spreader bar if I need to lie on the board and paddle. It's really robust and I can comfortably load it right up like I would windfoiling or windsurfing. I'm hooked in most of the time now unless I'm gybing, jumping or on a wave.

I can't imagine using a belt with a plastic hook. Doesn't a belt dig into your back?

Yeah a waist harness is definitely more comfy I use one when doing races or long runs but the simplicity is a big thing I'm actually waiting for my forward wip wingers harness and buoyancy vest all in one then will see how that goes as I sail with a buoyancy/impact vest always

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goggo said..

goggo said..
Cheers all, had a moment at work and www.thingiverse.com/thing:5425008

Went out yesterday on old 7m, fell off hooked in, snap.

(I'll explain in rather basic terms since this is not a 3D printing forum.)

It looks like your print is almost entirely hollow. 3D printing has a bit of a problem in that the models are typically distributed as STL or 3MF files, which describe the geometry. If the designer wants to leave something hollow, that's possible. However, if the designer puts a huge solid chunk somewhere (to make the part strong), the person doing the printing is still going to run that geometry through the slicing software that converts the shape into a series of instructions for the printer. It's done this way, because the instructions are always specific to the printer and filament used.

Most slicer defaults however are not made to produce particularly strong parts. They aim to produce prints that look like the model that was sliced, print reasonably fast and not cost too much in terms of material. This means solid areas inside the print usually end up almost entirely hollow (maybe 10% density).

I haven't made a harness hook model, but on Sunday, I released some new models that have very high durability requirements (at least for plastic 3D prints), so I made sure I gave some guidance on how to set up the slicer to produce a strong print and I'm giving a weight estimate on how much the produced part should weigh. That way if you're printing my design and the weight is only half of the ones I'm printing, you'll know something is probably a bit off.

Check out the "printing details" section to see what I mean (this is a screwdriver handle that I designed for assembling hydrofoils):

www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-gyrokey-classic-revolutionary-screwdriver-241639

The shell thickness is generally more important than the infill density. If I want something printed fast and durability doesn't matter, I just print with two outlines and 3-4 top and bottom layers. That means the side walls are 0.8mm thick and the top and bottom are about 0.6 - 0.8 mm thick. Once you go up to 5 outlines or more and 10 top & bottom layers, you're entering the "oh, this actually feels pretty sturdy" territory. For the Gyrokey screwdrivers, I'm doing 10 outlines and 10 top and bottom layers and 40% infill. The surface quality actually takes a bit of a hit because the print is so close to solid, but the print time is still pretty reasonable and the extra durability doesn't add much more than 20-30 cents to the material costs, so it's well worth it.

When I designed the Duotone-compatible boom heads, I made the parts hollow on purpose. My first prototype was solid, so the durability was entirely up to the slicer settings and I actually went a bit overboard and ended up with a rather heavy front piece. Making the model hollow by design means you can crank up the slicer settings pretty much as much as you like and it's still going to print with about the same amount of material as the ones I have been using here all year.

If I slice the harness hook from Thingiverse using the same settings I use for the Gyrokey, I get a weight of 59 grams.

BTW, using TPU (like the author suggests) is not a bad idea, but it's then really important to print the part almost entirely solid or it will be too floppy to actually work as a harness hook. TPU (thermoplastic urethane) and TPE (thermoplastic elastomer) are flexible filaments. They bend really easily and potentially stretch a bit, but they don't crack like PLA (PLA is really rigid and can be a bit brittle). If you print a moderate to low flex filament thick enough, it will be pretty solid and I could see how it would potentially work quite well as a harness hook. With default slicer settings though, you're likely to end up with a wet noodle for a harness hook if you use TPU/TPE and a fragile hook that can not take the stress if you use PLA.

The beauty of 3D printing is that if you find that something you made isn't strong enough, you can potentially change the way it's printed or use a stronger material.

I hope this helps.

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JuriM said..

goggo said..

goggo said..
Cheers all, had a moment at work and www.thingiverse.com/thing:5425008

Went out yesterday on old 7m, fell off hooked in, snap.

(I'll explain in rather basic terms since this is not a 3D printing forum.)

It looks like your print is almost entirely hollow. 3D printing has a bit of a problem in that the models are typically distributed as STL or 3MF files, which describe the geometry. If the designer wants to leave something hollow, that's possible. However, if the designer puts a huge solid chunk somewhere (to make the part strong), the person doing the printing is still going to run that geometry through the slicing software that converts the shape into a series of instructions for the printer. It's done this way, because the instructions are always specific to the printer and filament used.

Most slicer defaults however are not made to produce particularly strong parts. They aim to produce prints that look like the model that was sliced, print reasonably fast and not cost too much in terms of material. This means solid areas inside the print usually end up almost entirely hollow (maybe 10% density).

I haven't made a harness hook model, but on Sunday, I released some new models that have very high durability requirements (at least for plastic 3D prints), so I made sure I gave some guidance on how to set up the slicer to produce a strong print and I'm giving a weight estimate on how much the produced part should weigh. That way if you're printing my design and the weight is only half of the ones I'm printing, you'll know something is probably a bit off.

Check out the "printing details" section to see what I mean (this is a screwdriver handle that I designed for assembling hydrofoils):

www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-gyrokey-classic-revolutionary-screwdriver-241639

The shell thickness is generally more important than the infill density. If I want something printed fast and durability doesn't matter, I just print with two outlines and 3-4 top and bottom layers. That means the side walls are 0.8mm thick and the top and bottom are about 0.6 - 0.8 mm thick. Once you go up to 5 outlines or more and 10 top & bottom layers, you're entering the "oh, this actually feels pretty sturdy" territory. For the Gyrokey screwdrivers, I'm doing 10 outlines and 10 top and bottom layers and 40% infill. The surface quality actually takes a bit of a hit because the print is so close to solid, but the print time is still pretty reasonable and the extra durability doesn't add much more than 20-30 cents to the material costs, so it's well worth it.

When I designed the Duotone-compatible boom heads, I made the parts hollow on purpose. My first prototype was solid, so the durability was entirely up to the slicer settings and I actually went a bit overboard and ended up with a rather heavy front piece. Making the model hollow by design means you can crank up the slicer settings pretty much as much as you like and it's still going to print with about the same amount of material as the ones I have been using here all year.

If I slice the harness hook from Thingiverse using the same settings I use for the Gyrokey, I get a weight of 59 grams.

BTW, using TPU (like the author suggests) is not a bad idea, but it's then really important to print the part almost entirely solid or it will be too floppy to actually work as a harness hook. TPU (thermoplastic urethane) and TPE (thermoplastic elastomer) are flexible filaments. They bend really easily and potentially stretch a bit, but they don't crack like PLA (PLA is really rigid and can be a bit brittle). If you print a moderate to low flex filament thick enough, it will be pretty solid and I could see how it would potentially work quite well as a harness hook. With default slicer settings though, you're likely to end up with a wet noodle for a harness hook if you use TPU/TPE and a fragile hook that can not take the stress if you use PLA.

The beauty of 3D printing is that if you find that something you made isn't strong enough, you can potentially change the way it's printed or use a stronger material.

I hope this helps.

Thanks, improved my understanding of 3D printing

+1
Thank you YouriM, that indeed is very informative and useful information. I learned a lot and this will come in handy!

I've been using the DaKine Solo for a few months now. When I first saw the system, I was a little skeptical. But now, I'd say it's one of the best belts out there, IF you're not looking for massive back support. For wave riding it clicks all the boxes. I use it only for my long upwind runs.
The hook lays over w/o the rider doing anything. Critical for going prone to get out through break.
Of course it's got a leash strap on back. If you only stay in one stance, it slides too both sides making that possible. I'm a switchie, so not important to me. I also weighed it against my buddies plain nylon belt. It was def lighter as it doesn't absorb water.
Only points I'll take off for are the Retro 60's/70's ski belt graphic and look. Others may dig it.

As to does the belt hurt, if you're small, no. And if you wear an impact vest with the belt over it, you don't feel it at all. Less gear, more fun. But if you're big and wearing trunks and nothing else, sure, you'll get rubbed.

Kaohi belt leash, dope. Use a piece of cord to make sure the plastic buckle doesn't leave you stranded but less is more imho.

Those RE clear hooks break too. Faster than a correctly printed DIY. I bought a printed hook off eBay and you could kill a man with it. Won't break. Bless you man for the 3D explainer. Check his wrench, it's amazing I think.

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surfcowboy said..


Those RE clear hooks break too. Faster than a correctly printed DIY.

I've been using the RE clear hook for over a year, admit it looks brittle and fragile but it's been faultless so far. YMMV!