hi all
i am going to attempt to re grip one of my old boards (DIY style). I have cleaned the old grip off and have prep the area
(sanding with rough to smooth sand paper to remove all of the old material. so i can get a good bond when i apply the new resin) to be re griped. But i am having trouble finding any uv resistant epoxy resin .
If anyone knows a supplier that would be great

thanks for your time

Jonesy

The only one that will give a reasonble chance it Bote Cote non yellowing epoxy.

If you contact the manufacturer over east they will post a small sample kit that is enough to regrip a board with some left over, for about $15.
But you have to be sure to specify the non-yellowing one as not all their products are UV stabilised
boatcraft.com.au/informationpages/whybotecote.htm

else, their Perth agent is in O'connor

www.boatinghardware.com/

Actually rather than ordering form boatcraft, might be better going to the store in O'Connor anyway as they will hopefully have the non-slip acrylic dust - 'Intergrip' is what u want

thanks guys

Use UV stable epoxy. apply using a fine mohair roller. spread it out so it's super thin. Don't make a thick coat.
Evenly spread castor sugar over the surface and don't blow off the excess. once dry wash off the excess and go sailing.
This is the best technique for a good DIY job. Don't listen to anyone that wants to make it more complicated than that.
Good luck

I just sprinkled icing sugar on my board....... No extra grip, just the sweetest board on the beach now!

I knew there was something different about the taste of your deck.

Was it Sticky Mark?

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hoop said..

Use UV stable epoxy. apply using a fine mohair roller. spread it out so it's super thin. Don't make a thick coat.
Evenly spread castor sugar over the surface and don't blow off the excess. once dry wash off the excess and go sailing.
This is the best technique for a good DIY job. Don't listen to anyone that wants to make it more complicated than that.
Good luck

How thick should the sprinkle be ? Have you a photo of this stage.

Sprinkle it on a rail lightly till it starts to roll off. That will show you the optimum amount. Then continue around the board - you will get a feel for it. As long as you have rolled out evenly and thinly having some excess is good. You will know if you don't have enough on as you will see the resin between the grains. You'll be right

^^ +1

also add though that if using Intergrip it is MUCH finer than caster sugar so using it thru the kitchen seive as most people do, will result in waaayyy too much. Always practice first.

The secondhand JP Thruster I bought last season is due for a regrip between the straps and I'm going to follow the advice on this thread. The only issue is that the previous owner obviously had issues with deck slip and has used board wax on the area. There isn't a great layer of wax left but there is lots of residual wax which will stuff up the epoxy bond. In fact there is probably more skin left on it from slipping on the bloody think in the last month or so ....

Once I've heated/scraped and cleaned the obvious wax off what will I have to do to get a "clean enough" finish before using the epoxy ??? Is there a product to use or is it a matter of scraping and sanding ?

Maybe I should take the easy way out and hit it with a fresh layer of wax - it worked well enough for the first season....

Thanks in advance.

^^^ Ken it will be a mongrel. Hot water and scraper will get a lot off, best then is acetone for guaranteed removal - but that will eat the graphics.
After getting the bulk off, persist with hot water and detergent and a stiff scrubbing brush a few times, then a good scrub with heaps of metho.

If you can get it that clean, I will do the regrip for you if you want

Sorry to contradict Mark but I say NOOOO to acetone. For wax, remove as much manually as possible with a plastic scraper then use White Spirit from Bunnings or Prep Wash from anywhere that does automotive paint. Use a course rag and keep replacing the rag if it clogs. Soak solvent soaked rags in water before disposing of responsibly.
Avoid contact with any foam or rubber components and wear cloves and a mask and in a well ventilated area.

Just to add my confusing advice... I had to remove wax from a board I bought. I tried a heat gun and it doesn't really work too well. I even overdid it and caused the surface of the board to bubble and obviously delaminate at that point.

Then... I use turps, and it removed the wax easily. I wish I had tried it before even switching the heatgun on.

As with all advice, try it on a little place first to make sure it works on your type of wax.

Oh, and the delam didn't matter really anyway. The board had soft spots and I was doing the drill holes and inject 2-part foam trick. It just meant I did this in yet another spot, which was pretty much anywhere you step on the board anyway. Now the board is minus any soft spots.

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Man0verBoard said..
............ I say NOOOO to acetone. .

I did also. Maybe not well written.
What I mean is acetone is best for getting wax off. It is best for greasy / waxy crap removal. BUT it eats graphics so don't do it on a windsurf board unless you are sure the paint is 2pack and there are no holes in it, or you can guarantee the resin / 2k urethane layer over the grapics is intact.

Thus I said hot water and scraper to get most off, then hot water with lots detergent as it melts and dissolves the wax then once you reckon you have got it all THEN use a solvent that is safe, like metho, to be sure. White spirit would achieve same thing. Prepsol is good. Top notch...... but a 2K product I use recommends that the gold standard is acetone soaking.....

I disagree with turps as it takes days to dry off well and in the mean time it leaves an oily film that repels lots of stuff. Try to resin over it too early and it will fish-eye to blazes.

As MOB says Prepsol automotive oil and wax remover.

Thanks for the info guys and thanks for the offer Mark.

I've got most of the wax off by scraping and when I get a chance I'll hit it with the hot water, detergent and scrubbing brush. I'll try the metho treatment next ( like most people I have that in the shed) and see what that's like and if it needs more treatment I'll try the more nasty products.

I guess it will be pretty obvious when the wax is all off and I then might see if I can get the supplies in small enough quantity from OConnor and give it a crack myself - caster sugar won't be a problem getting

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Mark _australia said..

I disagree with turps as it takes days to dry off well and in the mean time it leaves an oily film that repels lots of stuff. Try to resin over it too early and it will fish-eye to blazes.

Good point. I have cleaned the wax off, but it'll be a while before it gets recoated, so I suspect I will be giving it a wash in acetone or metho before I regrip it.

It did take the wax off well though, and I think I tried metho and it didn't make much difference.

Ordered some Intergrip the other day from a local retailer and got a call to say International no longer make / distribute it. It's still on their website though. Any other sources that anyone knows of.?

I always bought it from Whitworths, if its the stuff I am thinking of. Do you have those up there?

Hi guys

I have successfully re griped my board using the advice from this forum and it look great

I had a nose repair to do as well on the same board I used sikaflex wet areas white for bunnings to fix that area
It worked good and respray with a match colour spray paint and looks good to

Thanks for the advice

Jonesy

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seanjones said..

Hi guys

I have successfully re griped my board using the advice from this forum and it look great

I had a nose repair to do as well on the same board I used sikaflex wet areas white for bunnings to fix that area
It worked good and respray with a match colour spray paint and looks good to

Thanks for the advice

Jonesy

hahahhaaa
i used roofing silicone for a few minor scrapes. 3 years later....

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Mark _australia said..

^^ +1

also add though that if using Intergrip it is MUCH finer than caster sugar so using it thru the kitchen seive as most people do, will result in waaayyy too much. Always practice first.

Anyone got a tip for broadcasting the intergrip evenly if a sieve isn't suitable.

EDIT - just found this on that international paints link I previously posted. Will try this although probably go smaller hole than recommended 3mm???

The easiest way is to shake the Intergrip powder onto a layer of wet paint. One way to do this is to take the Intergrip container and drill many 3 mm holes in the lid and use the container like a large pepper shaker. Shake the powder on until the whole surface is covered by a layer of powder. Allow the paint to semi-cure and then blow the excess powder off the surface and apply a further coat of paint to seal it all down. The jar of Intergrip that now has a holey lid can easily be sealed by using a layer of cling wrap over the top before putting the lid back on.

^^ that is way too much.... maybe 1mm or 1.5mm

I use a sieve but from about 1m above the board, very little shaking, and a breeze so it spreads a lot