Sunday was my first proper wave sailing session.
It was 4-6 foot, cross off shore. Big scary waves. Variable winds from 15 to 25 knots.
I headed out. A little bit of wee escaped as I approached a 2m wall of white water whilst just moving. Very nervous. Heart rate thumping. I mounted the beast and fell in as a gust hit me at the top of the white water. A quick water start to do it all over again.
Then I was all clear out the back and happily putting along sub planning. So good so far.
A massive swell was building in front of me. The biggest I've ever seen. I slam jibed and raced for the wave. It was bloody massive. I felt the wave surge and push me into the wind. I slipped my feet into the straps. Fully powered now because the wave was pushing me into wind. I sped down the face of the wave at a frightening speed. I forgot everything I was taught, leant back and the board started bucking. I managed a crap bottom turn and looked up at a wave face as high as my mast. The wave started to close out. I managed a cutback but was too late. A Huge wall of white water smacked me down.
Rig lost. Disorientated. But fully intact.
My board was 15m inshore from me and I was 500m off shore. I swam hard but had to dive under each wave. I couldn't get to my board. Time to panic? The fact I considered the pros and cons of panicing convinced me I'd be ok. So I swam. And dived under a wave and swam and dived. ...
Eventually I was washed up in waist deep water to retrieve my rig.
Alive. And now full of confidence because I didn't die. Good news.
A quick rest.
Back out again. This time ignoring the big sets and going for the smaller waves like this one below.
I have to say for a first time wave sailer I ripped it up. Or at least that's how it felt. I sailed until my arms fell off.
Best session ever!