What a day - those photos say it all (most of it). I particularly like to see Al swimming, I mean the shot of Al almost making the top-turn....
Greenie should have turned LEFT at the top of that jump, and Paul ALMOST put that Mule Kick down the right way up, but it was more Table Top than the photo shows. 'Cool Kids' is now 'Old School Paul - stick with something long enough...
It looks like Gil timed her runs for the biggest waves of the day, intentional I am sure as she is turning over a new, radical leaf in preparation for the half century (I am sure that is what she said to me).
The foot could be better - but it could have been the knee or the ankle too. Six weeks off the water (or a bit less perhaps.......3 I reckon...EASY!) They are only little fractures, and it is only 3 Metatarsels.
This is what happens when you get your foot stuck in the front strap when you go over the front. I was lying on my back on the front of my board with my front foot still fully IN the strap. I could not believe the angle that it bent to, and grateful that the damage was not worse.
Thanks for helping me off the beach Greenie!