This board developed a bit of a crack after a heavy landing. I'll post the repair process FYI

Cut out getting depth setting from small piece cut out below
Peel skin off





Sedges of cutouts tapered to "Scarf" join top layer of carbon. I'm leaving the centre line and rail glass to retain correct shape.
I'll compensate for strength loss by using single bias carbon.

Corecell cut out. The original pieces of skin make good templates for the new Corecell.
The new composite will be slightly thicker than original, so the EPS core will need to be sanded a bit to allow for that. The depth still needs to be slightly less than the new repair material because when vacuum bagged it will compress the EPS. If it compresses too much, more filler has to be used to correct things adding weight.

Prepped for laminating

4Oz Glass and 200g single bias carbon fibre under Corecell. 200g carbon fibre cloth over Corecell

The crazy board scientist, looks good, they don't make em like they used to.
Strapper, great boards.

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appleman said..
The crazy board scientist, looks good, they don't make em like they used to.
Strapper, great boards.

Should be "Bulletproof" when it's done. The last one has taken a pounding with no cracks. Great in high wind with a little extra weight too.

Relic
I think Fanatic should put you on the pay role

And Jp, Starboard, Naish.....etc etc

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TASSIEROCKS said..
Relic
I think Fanatic should put you on the pay role

Bad idea Russ; it would send them bankrupt because the boards would last forever!
To be fair though, we the buyers demand lightweight boards. Obviously there comes a point where strength is sacrificed.

There were small stringers moulded on the original skin. The voids have been filled with carbon strands. Every bit helps I guess.
4Oz Glass. Epoxy resin glue was used directly onto the EPS core to fill the gouges, bond the CF strands and provide a strong bond between the original Corecell and the new.
200g Single bias carbon fibre. This weave provides longitudinal strength
Corecell.
200g CF cloth
Peel ply over laminates. Smooth out before vac bagging



Plastic film over peel ply stops vacum fabric sticking
Into the vac bag being careful not to over-suck compressing the EPS core leading to the need for lots of filler.

I would always like to know the previous owners abuse..
especially second-hand at a expensive price fro mainland.
Hot place Adelaide... Do they take the bung out??. Has it overheated.
Did owner use it in the surf a lot???
Flat jumps???
Etc etc

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geared4knots said..
I would always like to know the previous owners abuse..
especially second-hand at a expensive price fro mainland.
Hot place Adelaide... Do they take the bung out??. Has it overheated.
Did owner use it in the surf a lot???
Flat jumps???
Etc etc

Good points. Buyer beware! In my humble opinion the manufacturer may have pushed the light weight envelope, resulting in a board that is perhaps a little fragile?
Even so. Consider the forces when a 85 kg rider and rig slam down flat from a jump.

Yes TEXTREME is the top end performance. For maximum durability and longevity i would recommend the TE edition Fanatic waveboards.

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geared4knots said..
Yes TEXTREME is the top end performance. For maximum durability and longevity i would recommend the TE edition Fanatic waveboards.

My Fanatic TE Freewave is three years old. It has been thrashed; mostly sailed/wiped out and jumped in surf,washed up on rocks and survived a plane trip Hobart Perth return.
It has accumulated a fair few dings, smashed rails and even a hole in the deck. Lucky I know someone who can fix boards quickly after they're damaged!
A damaged board's worst enemy is water ingress. Prompt repairs will maintain strength. Adhesive tape doesn't do a very good job at keeping water out. It allows the area that is damaged get waterlogged and delaminate. The best temporary repair is instant epoxy putty that hardens when worked like plasticine.The one that sets under water is great. It's a hardware store item and will get you back on the water fast.

Cracked rail....
Sanded till "Fury" Used UV stable resin (Normal resin goes yellow in the sun and two layers of 200g CF.
Peel ply over the top. No vac needed.

Q-cell on. Sanding and paint next.
Throughout the process a heater has kept the board warm. Epoxies won't cure under 15 Degrees. To aid full curing I lay the board inside in the sun a few hours a day keeping an eye on it not getting too hot. Don't forget to take the vent plug out!

The rail fix had to be redone. When sanding some of the CF lifted. The rail needs to be sound; no compromise here. Ripped it off slotted a section then glassed in strands. 200g CF cloth over the top. This time it has been vacuumed to ensure a good tight bond.

Finished!

Forgot to mention final weight is 7.25 kg. Original weight 6.5 kg (6.25 kg claimed by Fanatic) Must be measured in "Euro Metric"

WHoooooooo - for a moment I thought that was a shot of the board BEFORE the damage.

Black concaves are kind of cool

WHoooooooo - for a moment I thought that was a shot of the board BEFORE the damage.

Black concaves are kind of cool

Way beyond my skillset to duplicate the original finish!