A membrane valve was installed for the first time on my Starboard Isonic from 2022. When I got my first 2023 Isonic, I was surprised that a conventional steel screw was installed again. Is there any information about it, do the new membrane valves cause problems?

Regards Bernhard

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BBsurfer said..
A membrane valve was installed for the first time on my Starboard Isonic from 2022. When I got my first 2023 Isonic, I was surprised that a conventional steel screw was installed again. Is there any information about it, do the new membrane valves cause problems?

Regards Bernhard

Hard to come up with numbers comparing failure rates, but I had a goretex valve on my Carbon Art 58 and when I sold it to the California Queen-of-repairs she expressed very low opinion on that type of valves in general. First thing she did was to take it out, check out her as usual pristine job here: boardlady.com/5909.htm. However the valve housing might have improved, the one I had on the carbon art was 2008.

I wonder, not knowing either way, if it was a design concern or a supply chain issue

The worst thing for a Gortex is salt water.

Got Carbon Arts from 09 through to 2020 and never had an issue with them. Set and forget

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AUS4 said..
The worst thing for a Gortex is salt water.

If you look at the data sheets for Gore Screw in valves it clearly states that they pass the Salt Fog tests. Where they can be problematic is if you get salt water in your board through damage. You can get salt building up on the inside of the membrane and restrict the breathing out, which can lead to a delam in severe conditions. But the vents themselves are fine in salt water, I always give them a rinse with fresh water.
But if you do get water in the board you can potentially have issues.

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mr love said..

AUS4 said..
The worst thing for a Gortex is salt water.

If you look at the data sheets for Gore Screw in valves it clearly states that they pass the Salt Fog tests. Where they can be problematic is if you get salt water in your board through damage. You can get salt building up on the inside of the membrane and restrict the breathing out, which can lead to a delam in severe conditions. But the vents themselves are fine in salt water, I always give them a rinse with fresh water.
But if you do get water in the board you can potentially have issues.

I'm not talking data sheets, I'm talking from personal experiences, CA valves, SUP boards, clothing etc. But if you like it, use it.

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AUS4 said..

mr love said..

AUS4 said..
The worst thing for a Gortex is salt water.

If you look at the data sheets for Gore Screw in valves it clearly states that they pass the Salt Fog tests. Where they can be problematic is if you get salt water in your board through damage. You can get salt building up on the inside of the membrane and restrict the breathing out, which can lead to a delam in severe conditions. But the vents themselves are fine in salt water, I always give them a rinse with fresh water.
But if you do get water in the board you can potentially have issues.

I'm not talking data sheets, I'm talking from personal experiences, CA valves, SUP boards, clothing etc. But if you like it, use it.

I have been using boards with Gore tex valves for a while now. I was very skeptical in the beginning, went nearly insane drying and weighing the boards meticulously. Found no gain in weight whatever. You do not have to think about screws all the time, if it is hot, damp flying etc. Like everything they must have a lifespan and maybe they must be replaced. This I don't know and bothers me from time to time. But there are also other thing that bother me so I tend to forget about that. Speaking about screws I remember I purchased a Cobra made board with a defective thread in the vented mast box..... Thanks God I checked that before I got the board wet...
What happens if you get salt in the board if it gets damaged? This I also don't know but it feels and sounds like a really bad option. Maybe after repairing the board you have to change the valve straight away... or the board ?

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sprayblaze said.. What happens if you get salt in the board if it gets damaged? This I also don't know but it feels and sounds like a really bad option. Maybe after repairing the board you have to change the valve straight away... or the board ?

If there's any chance the board has water in it, change the valve for a conventional screw.

The carbon arts are constructed very well, I've never seen one delam

The Mistrals were also constructed well, but I think the core foam was a bit suss, There's been a few of those delamn, and I suspect the goretex vent, but can't prove it.

It's salt and dirt in sweat that blocks and breaks down gortex in clothing which why you need to wash it regularly. Gortex only lets vapour through, if you have water in side your board it's not getting out unless it gets hot, and if that water is sitting on the inside of the plug nothing is getting out.
at least with a screw you can pour the water out.

I also remember the good old days when boards didn't have vents yet still worked perfectly

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Ben1973 said..
I also remember the good old days when boards didn't have vents yet still worked perfectly

Have a '91 made in Stevenson, WA SeaTrends slalom board. No vent plug. Still in one piece. Only short periods of time when not either in a reflective board bag or in the water. Unlike what seem to be popular back then. Bare boards on roof racks all day long, anywhere, everywhere. "Look at me, I'm a so cool windsurfer" (that can't jibe).

I use a two bolt chinook base. If you want to. Many vent bolts/screws fit into the base. Just remember to close the collar or you end up maybe losing your plug screw. Hard not remember you forgot closing your vent plug when trying to insert your uni. Unless you forgot to close the collar, lost the bolt. Then you are in for a real soggy board.

Is replacing the goretex membrane a diy process? Never have ever looked at one closely. Assuming there is a threaded insert to screw in the membrane housing?

I closely saw my first vortex valve the other day. Couldn't really tell what was going on inside. I did notice that it was mounted in a recess that would pool water. This would be the last place for water to dry on the board, so I would hope it would work as intended. Being a one way valve, going over bumps would push air out of the board creating a vacuum inside. Making it more important that the valve seals properly and the pooled water doesn't get sucked inside due to sand holding the valve open. Because they work, I'm impressed that they don't leak. It would make me nervous though .

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Ben1973 said..
I also remember the good old days when boards didn't have vents yet still worked perfectly

That also makes me wonder . Eons ogo I made hand laminated polyester windsurfers that crackled on roof racks without vents and never exploded or delaminated . Vents weren't invented yet .They were clear and the heat really got inside . Is it because boards are now using soft styrene cores that allows for expansion . Could it also be because new boards are vac bagged using less resin to bond to the core? Are the older boards that over engineered that they could just tough it out and not expand ?
What is different for boards to now explode ? Thinning ozone layer ?
I do believe there is a modern brand that does not have a vent ? It was a small brand that made very strong boards that I can't remember the name of .

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Imax1 said..

Ben1973 said..
I also remember the good old days when boards didn't have vents yet still worked perfectly

That also makes me wonder . Eons ogo I made hand laminated polyester windsurfers that crackled on roof racks without vents and never exploded or delaminated . Vents weren't invented yet .They were clear and the heat really got inside . Is it because boards are now using soft styrene cores that allows for expansion . Could it also be because new boards are vac bagged using less resin to bond to the core? Are the older boards that over engineered that they could just tough it out and not expand ?
What is different for boards to now explode ? Thinning ozone layer ?
I do believe there is a modern brand that does not have a vent ? It was a small brand that made very strong boards that I can't remember the name of .

My Fanatic Blast with HRS construction doesn't have a vent. Everything else is vent screw or membrane valve.

Hi. I 've had standard vent valves in my windsurfing or supping boards for 25 years, no problem. Last year I bought a custom supsurfing board with a membrane valve even I did wanted the old one. The producer told me now every big manufacturer use them now. Besides told me to ringe everyday, and change every two years of so. I loosened it once and couldn't put it again because there was some salt. Very sensitive piece.
I don't know why some people insist in changing what it has worked well for decades.

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Imax1 said..
I closely saw my first vortex valve the other day. Couldn't really tell what was going on inside. I did notice that it was mounted in a recess that would pool water. This would be the last place for water to dry on the board, so I would hope it would work as intended. Being a one way valve, going over bumps would push air out of the board creating a vacuum inside. Making it more important that the valve seals properly and the pooled water doesn't get sucked inside due to sand holding the valve open. Because they work, I'm impressed that they don't leak. It would make me nervous though .

Yet the vent screw is positioned at the lowest point of the scoop deck in almost all board brands.

Hi, is it possible to replace a gore valve with the classic screw valve ?

I recently bought a starboard kode of 2022 and I really do not like the system of this valve

Thanks