needed a light wind board minimum 118ltx2045 length with a minimum width 700 with cutouts and no deck recess , after purchasing an isonic 117x800.5wx2028L found it a bit to technical for my ability , the isonic was an amazing board in a strait line and didn't feel like a wide board ,I haven't ridden the exocet pre cutouts so I wont be able to comment if they have made a difference ,
www.seabreeze.com.au/Img/Photos/Windsurfing/tn/mini-10825214.jpghttps://www.seabreeze.com.au/Img/Photos/Windsurfing/tn/mini-10825216.jpghttps://www.seabreeze.com.au/Img/Photos/Windsurfing/tn/mini-10825213.jpg' />

Nice work

thanks Mark I don't think the board is finished yet with maybe a small side cutout , as you know most boards develop a concave between the fin box at 200,personaly at my age the modern boards are a bit short to uphaul and to fat to gybe so need to go old school

nice job Keef, how did you decide on the size, depth and shape of the cutouts and why you don't want the deck recess? Did you try the board already?
Cheers

George the board is for light winds and I find at 118lt I need 2046 to stand either side of the mast track to up haul with no deck recess so I don't sink the nose , I have put cut outs in before and have found if they are the same depth and to square they will suck air, these cutouts are about 5mm to about 20mm and are at 60deg just in case I decide to put in some side cutouts , after all its all trail and error so lets hope it works no I haven't ridden the board but maybe I should have

Nice work Keef!

Did you use pvc and rout a rebate under the hull laminate?

I have seen some cutout mods which had the top glass layer of the cutout only butted to the hull laminate, I wouldn't trust that type of interface.

Let us all know how it goes as this is one of those mods that can give an old board a new lease on life. I "Flapperised" the 3rd board I made back when Roberts were developing them and it completely transformed the way the board rode through chop.

yes Kimba I recessed below the laminate ,made a mix of airosil and resin on the bottom , then waited till it got tacky then inserted 10mm divinicel and carbon and stuck a couple of car batteries on each, then shaped the bottom cutout , then inserted 10mm divi again with some carbon underneath the laminate
to lay the final layer of carbon and satin weave glass I again made a mix airosil and resin , layed that down until it was sticky as hell then put the dry glass and carbon on so it would bend in the corners and stick , then wet the carbon and satin weave and rolled it with a wheel when that was tacky i layed some stiff plastic , finally when geld I cut the excess off with a blade , personally I think the trick is the airosil as it stays where you put it and is water tight

very neat work there Captain. And a red hull finish must mean there's a new red fin to come

thanks Dez but no more red fins ill just borrow one of yours