Might have forgotten I had tow bar on when i backed into garage.. best way to repair this please?

Bugger. I don't know how to fix it but at least it doesn't have water in it unlike incidents that happen on the water!!

That's a big one.... need some 3mm divinycell, epoxy, q-cells and about 4oz glass.

then go read almost all of the boardlady site...............
Quite a few threads on here also

Oh and a lot of patience and care slicing those pads off, the thin stuff tears easily

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Mark _australia said..
That's a big one.... need some 3mm divinycell, epoxy, q-cells and about 4oz glass.

then go read almost all of the boardlady site...............
Quite a few threads on here also

Oh and a lot of patience and care slicing those pads off, the thin stuff tears easily

Sounds like it above my level of skills and patience...

Nah anyone can do it.............

Or if it is to be treated well and you only want to get another season out of it, the dodgy way could be the go??

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Mark _australia said..
Nah anyone can do it.............

Or if it is to be treated well and you only want to get another season out of it, the dodgy way could be the go??

Gaffa tape or sika

Take it to a shop to repair. Save the risk of failure, disappointment and time

The structural damage underneath that crack is probably worse than the surface damage makes it look. And it's right in the impact zone, careful reconstruction is required to avoid the repair failing.

Best bet is to take your tow ball off before reversing into the garage.

I'm always helpful, thanks for my reply.

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Vince68 said..
Take it to a shop to repair. Save the risk of failure, disappointment and time

Wise words Vince. It's an easy repair for someone that knows what they're doing but would be a total nightmare for someone just having a shot.

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hoop said..

Vince68 said..
Take it to a shop to repair. Save the risk of failure, disappointment and time

Wise words Vince. It's an easy repair for someone that knows what they're doing but would be a total nightmare for someone just having a shot.

+1.

If you know how to repair this, it's not so bad, but that is definitely not the kind of repair that you want to start out with. Any mistakes, and you'll have more problems in the same area later.

Yes but even if its a 1st repair a bit of research and a lot of patience will.get the problems solved & once done. Its something to take.pride in &its a new skill.learned for the future .

Repairing this properly, based on the boardlady.com web site info, will require divinycell and a vacuum setup. If you don't have one, the initial setup will cost at least US$200 (a cheap $60 vacuum pump, connectors, trap, release film, breather fabric, vacuum film, vacuum bagging tape). I paid about $80 just to get the stuff shipped (it's a big box!). If you don't have the epoxy, glass fiber, and divinycell, add another $100-$150. Sure, you'll have plenty of material for multiple repairs, but if this is the only repair you use it on, getting it repaired by a shop should be cheaper (and probably faster and better).

For someone who dings stuff on a regular basis, and likes learning new skills and doing repairs, DIY makes sense. For someone who just wants to use the board again (and has access to professional repair), not so much. I like doing repairs, and I had a board that I had already replaced to learn on, so that's what I did. But despite reading a lot and soliciting a lot of "how to" suggestions, I had to re-do several of my repairs. I'd say maybe it's me (quite possible), but one of my friends who did a repair similar to the one needed here ended up in the same situation.

No need to vac that if it is an old board and you just want to get it going again.
But upon reflection yeah hoops is right it is a few steps up from a rail ding patch up job

Looks like a JP Funster. There is no divinycell in its construction. Just a ** load of cop strand(what they like to call uni directional) with a plastic coating, which you can't replace. Cheap to repair if you have some basic skills and knowledge.
As Mark said, hardest part is successfully removing the deck pads.

Woops just read what I wrote. Should say
Chop strand(what they call multi directional).
Rushed post sorry, wasn't deliberately trying to sound like an idiot, although I did job at it.

This is an easy fix method for a beginner.
Because it is not under the heel a easy semi dodgy fix will work just fine.
Slowly with a razor ( gently , slowly ) cut under the pad and peel it out of the way.
lift the damaged area and notice the crushed void under the laminate.
This has to be filled.
Get some fibreglass cloth ( any kind will do )
Buy some Araldyte ( the $ 50 large full strength stuff )
Make a mix of styrene foam dust , some chopped fibreglass strands and Araldyte and stuff it under the damaged area.
Next day sand damaged area down to the glass laminate and 30 mm around it.
With a mini type spatula Araldyte a couple layers of fibreglass over the whole area.
Mini sand.
Contact adhesive the pad back down.
Done .
Paint for looks if u want.
It's not perfect but it's strong and it's only the cost of Araldyte , some glass ( auto place ) and easy to do.

I do not take responsibility for any stuff ups

Good point, now I see that EPS really close to the surface.
Given age of the board, cheaper construction style, and simplicity of repair I say do a dodgy with chopped strand and epoxy.

Hammer the high bit down so the crack edges line up, cut the crack out say 3mm deep with an angle grinder.
Dribble in epoxy to soak down into the core crack.

After curing, use a router to take out the glass, EVA foam, everything, down to the EPS level in a random shape about 50mm bigger than the crack all round. Rough guess looking at that pic, you will have a half moon shape about 300mm x 75mm with core exposed, nice and even depth.
Glass it with chopped strand (NOT the stuff designed for polyesters, it has additives) about 3-4mm thick.
Glue on some more EVA, it wont match but you do have an acceptable repair easily. And for about $20

Imax types faster than me

^^^
C, mon Mark , I only use one finger.

Once you've repaired it, store it in a different location, then you don't have to worry about your tow bar.
Overhead storage works real well.

That's a warranty job for sure

This might help, you might need to go carefully with polystyrene dust as that make epoxies exotherm quicker.
www.sanded.com.au/collections/surfboard-resins/products/repair-kit-for-surfboards

sanded.com.au/blogs/news/epoxy-repair-kit-instructions