Hi Folks, it's time to get that elastoplast off my boom. Anyone know who can regrip my carbon boom for me?

Cheers, Jens

hydrodynamix

You can. It's too easy.

How do you do it?

Select to expand quote

Jens said...

Hi Folks, it's time to get that elastoplast off my boom. Anyone know who can regrip my carbon boom for me?

Cheers, Jens

Hydrodynamx did a great job for me

Sugarcoat is easy

EDIT: oops wrong thread. May work though.....

I asked about this yesterday, apparently Hydrodynamix no longer do boom regripping.

U can buy a new grip from Surf/Sail for $29.95. Mark will give you the lowdown on how to do it. I have done 6 now - too easy. Carbon is a bit tougher as u can't use acetone to remove old glue remnants, still easy.

AB...

Why cant you use acetone to remove the glue on a carbon boom?

spare fin covers are the same material so if its a small repair its much quicker, cheaper and easier to to use them..

acetone might not effect the cured epoxy in a carbon boom but its better not to risk it unless your know an industrial chemist who could guarantee its safe..

I'm a boat builder who has built many carbon and epoxy boats, this is why i was asking. If it is epoxy resin then there is no reason to not use acetone. Only thing to worry about would be any plastic fittings

Fair call Fletchk, I was not 100% if there was a reaction between acetone and the resin top coat that some carbon booms have. As I am unaware what resin is used I have steered clear just in case. Thanks for the nfo.

AB....

Is it really that easy ?? How do you get the grip on really tight without bubbles ?

Select to expand quote

barn said...

spare fin covers are the same material so if its a small repair its much quicker, cheaper and easier to to use them..

acetone might not effect the cured epoxy in a carbon boom but its better not to risk it unless your know an industrial chemist who could guarantee its safe..

Barn-I like your thinking here, because it is only a small patch where my hand rests that is the problem. Might be easier not to do the whole thing...What glue do you recommend for the job?

Cheers, Jens

Yes NR, it is really that easy. 90% of the effort is removing the old stuff. If it's salt enriched then it's annoying. A good box cutter with breakable blades is the go.
I use Kwik Grip in a can - yellow contact glue. Applied evenly on both the boom and the new grip (with a pait brush) and left for 5 mins to tack dry there will be no air bubbles as it evens itself out nicely. Trick is to paint glue onto one of the eddges of the boom grip so once u roll it the edge connects with the underside of the new grip. Too hard to explain typing though. Remember painting the glue is Swiftly - swiftly. Rolling grip on is nice and slow so it can mould to the boom shape. Ask the shop where u get the grip from.

AB...

Select to expand quote

Jens said...

barn said...

spare fin covers are the same material so if its a small repair its much quicker, cheaper and easier to to use them..

acetone might not effect the cured epoxy in a carbon boom but its better not to risk it unless your know an industrial chemist who could guarantee its safe..

Barn-I like your thinking here, because it is only a small patch where my hand rests that is the problem. Might be easier not to do the whole thing...What glue do you recommend for the job?

Cheers, Jens

yeah its better to catch it peeling quickly and much less hassle to strip problem areas rather than the whole boom!!.. Any old contact adhesive will do, though there probably is high quality stuff on the market.. only stuff I have experience using the label was in Arabic, not sure what it was!...

hard to explain typing, and ill use any excuse to express myself on PAINT.. its important that the lip is removed, and after its dry the excess grip can be removed with course sandpaper

Select to expand quote

NR said...

Is it really that easy ?? How do you get the grip on really tight without bubbles ?

Stretch it a little as you put it on. If you get a little bubble then put a pin-prick in it and squeeze out the air.

Select to expand quote

barn said...
....

Don't make the angle on the edge too shallow. You want something like 45 degrees to give a clean edge to trim and sand to. You push the overlapping side firmly into it so it sticks well. If the overlap is too shallow the edge ends up a bit thin and vague. About half way between the edges shown in the picture.

It's easy to cut out sections and re-grip those bits. It looks kind of cool too if you use contrasting colours. Sort of like an old car with different coloured doors. (Look at me! Hard core dude. I don't need no freakin colour matched boom! Yo!)

I used 3M 1300L contact adhesive. Works great.
Good for board pads/grips too.

Lovely art work Barn! A picture's worth a 1000 words-I'll have a go at it on the weekend.

Cheers, jens

Dont use standard Kwik Grip though - as no matter how hard you try you will get yellow crap at the join or on the outside of the boom covering and it doesn't come off.

Get Kwik Grip Advanced as it dries clear.

Or Roberto's 3M stuff if that is clear ? I dunno as I've never seen it.

I regripped my carbon boom last year following the instructions here:

http://www.calema.com/forums/viewtopic.php?pid=944

I didn't use the carpet square to spread the glue though, just the tube. The regripping worked really well and is still in place after much use.

The hardest part is getting all the old grip off - it probably took me three hours of careful scraping and cutting then cleaning all the old glue off the boom. B..stard of a job actually. Applying the glue and new grip was the easy part and no bubbles or failures to stick.

I used some eucalyptus oil to get rid of the old glue, then some metho to get rid of any traces of euca oil before applying the new glue. Worked fine.

Just buy a kit from your local windsurf shop.

Also, previous discussions here:

www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/General/Boom-Regripping/?whichpage=-1&REPLY_ID=291442

Or you could just use an old teak boom like in my avatar - no special grip needed on those!

You get a yellow line if the angle of the join is too flat.

If you get a kit the edge will come pre-cut at 45 degrees. If you cut it by hand just use a craft knife and hold it about 45 degrees. It doesn't have to be super precise or even that straight.

I used some fairly coarse sand paper both by hand and on an orbital sander for cleaning off the boom and for trimming the finished result. It worked fine.

I have only done aluminium booms so you should probably be a little more careful with carbon.

I have built a carbon kite bar but that was done from scratch so I didn't have to clean anything off.