I use a similar technique with a large piece of mattress foam and an anvil. I did try covering a small item in plastic and immersing it in water, trouble was the item punctured the plastic, and water didn't improve the epoxy setting.
I cover in plastic then put a sandbag on it that is stuffed really full so it conforms to the surface but is still a bit rigid if that makes sense..........then tape all around, as tight as I can, with plastic packing tape Applies every bit as much pressure as bagging
The problem is if you want to apply pressure to something lower than the deck - like a layer of divinycell that sits say 2mm lower than the deck before u glass it later. Your bag, ball, etc will also sit on the deck and apply less pressure at the edges of the repaired area. So I cut a bit of d'cell, cardboard, whatever, the same size as the repair and lay then on top of the d'cell before applying the weight.
Been thinking about a plastic bag full of lead shot, easy 5-10kg and conforms nicely...
So you have a crushed rail, nose, or tail that needs to be repaired, but that last part, wrapping the final glass cloth around the repair can be a frustrating pain.
Lay up the resin socked glass over the repair, and wrap it around the rail, but it won't want to stay. Just let it hang as you get a piece of wax paper, big enough to go beyond the glass, and lay that over the wet glass, then wrap it around again using tape to tape the wax paper onto the dry parts of the board beyond the repair. Use lots of tape, covering the entire patch job, taping it down as tight as you can, wrapping around the rail. Come back later after it's cured, remove the tape and wax paper, the patch will look like it was vacuumed bagged, solid with no bubbles. Just sand down any ridges and finish as desired.
Serve warm with a nice Chianti and some fava beans.