I just bought a secondhand iS130 wood 2014. Got it on the Internet. They hug told me it had a couple if dings on the underside and gad been professionally repaired. Looked pretty decent in the photos.

when the board arrived it seemed OK, but I was not happy with the paint on the underside, felt very chalky and looked like to entire bottom had been sprayed. So I have gently wet and dried all the paint off with 1200 grit. The finish is a big improvement. But, it is very smooth, almost gloss like. My old iS137 finish was s but slightly matt in finish.

wondering if I'm better getting my local board builder (moo custom) to re-spray the bottom or just leave it. I guess I should try if first to see how it feels, but some feed back would be appreciated

The big thing is if your sanding exposed any of the wood fibres. If it did you're going to need to seal it.

No, it has not exposed the wood. There is a very hard clear coat on top if the wood. I guess if is resin.

Here's some reading for you mark

www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/General/Best-or-fastest-finish-gloss-or-matt/
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Gps/polishing-bottom-of-boards/
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Gps/Ultimate-High-wind-rough-water-Speeeeed-tips/
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Gps/To-sand-or-to-polish-that-is-the-question/
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/General/fin-surface/
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Gps/Speed-board-finishes-which-is-faster/

Select to expand quote

ikw777 said..
The big thing is if your sanding exposed any of the wood fibres. If it did you're going to need to seal it.

With 1200 wet and dry you hardly scratch it, 1200 is very fine.

^^^ agreed
Did u only do 1200? or start with rougher and work down?
If you only used 1200 - and presuming you didn't sand for a week - u have take very little paint off and it must have been really quite stuffed before.

If that is the case, leave it as-is.

If you must paint it take to anyone who can spray 2K, find a mate who does up cars or something it will be a piece of cake for him. But yeah if Moo is close if would not cost much it is $20 worth of paint and an hour

it was mostly done with 1200, I did use 800 for a very short time.

the links were an interesting read, will pour water on it and see if it beads, if it beads I'll do if again with 800.

I am not entirely convinced simply restricting yourself to 1200 is a guarantee of not sanding all the way through the finish. The wood bottom Starboard boards I have seen tend to push raised wood grain from under the paint. You can actually feel the grain. It wouldn't take much sanding to knock the tops of the ridges up and expose the fibres. Even with 1200. The photos show a lot of exposed wood.

I was thinking the same about the raised grain, may put it in and get it painted properly. Looking at my old iS137 side by side, the old one looks and feels like its been finished with 800. I was always very happy with how the old board felt, so probably best getting moo custom to finish the iS130 the same.

You will have compromised the integrity of the bottom for sure. Get it sealed properly or it will open up sooner than later and make the repairers job alum the more difficult and less durable

To be honest, that's what I'm worried about. I only change my boards every three or four years and don't want to change this one any sooner. Speaking with Starboard Remi on Tuesday and he recommends for wood boards, an epoxy paint for a hard, tough and water tight finish and finished off with 1000 grit wet n dry. Will get it sorted before using it

2 x epoxy coats And finished off with 1000 grit wet n dry. Feels tougher than the original paint now ??

Probably is. Good on you for reporting back now it is finished.