Rainy day project at the moment has been cleaning up some old repairs on a board I picked up recently. Now just cause I want to have a play I thought I would throw some paint on it.
So I started looking at spray cans of primer and thats when it got confusing.
Rather than stab in the dark thought I would put the question out there and see who has used what?
Any better than others?
Any you used that have failed?
Any good tips that might be handy from your experience?

MOTOSPRAY One Step Primer Putty. Use only Acrylic Lacquer colour(Anchor is good) and clear coat over gloss areas with 100% Gloss, Mat areas use 5% Gloss(mat)

Never use Enamel paint - unless it clearly says 'Acrylic Enamel'

I used this Primer/Filler recently from Super Cheap and it worked better than their name brand paint. $10 vs $16+.
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Primer-Filler-400g.aspx?pid=288527&menuFrom=80304#Cross

It fills and sands really well and you end up with a good dry film thickness - some of the spray can primers seems to have to high a percentage of thinners and dont get all that much coverage.

I use this directly over the filled & sanded laminate and give it a light sand - looks similar to an iSonic hull. If you are spraying the deck this stuff seems to be compatible with most topcoats.

It depends on if your priming straight onto the glass or over the factory paint, if it's a repair you don't really need to, you can just lay down another layer of paint to fill in any minor scratches in the repair. If your just freshening up the paint just sand the factory stuff and paint straight over it.

From my experience of painting a hell of a lot of boards 2k primer is pretty much the only one that sticks to glass, acrylic primer will peel off, most of the time, usually in the final stage when you pull the last bit of tape off.

As far as man's tip of laying down clear coat over acrylic colour, this is a big no no in painting as the clear will delaminate from acrylic, you will have to use base coat if you intend to use a clear over a colour.

Out of topic sorry but I recently saw a pic of a board where the guy used no paint. He put dye in the resin instead (obviously during the fabrication not after).
Very basic paintjob but it was looking awesome. And probably lighter for those crazy about weight...

I red thumbed you Julien cause you're out of topic.
I've got some if you need any.

Interesting..red thumb. I did say I prefer red roses hun.

The Paint I mentioned for repairs is a 2 coat system. The colour coat IS the base coat, and the clear coats are designed to go over.

I have never had an issue with flaking or peeling as mentioned above. I would say however, that if you leave too much filler or primer on any job it will chip or peel. It's really designed for very light build up only and is almost entirely sanded of in fine sanding.

Remember..roses, please

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jusavina said..

Out of topic sorry but I recently saw a pic of a board where the guy used no paint. He put dye in the resin instead (obviously during the fabrication not after).
Very basic paintjob but it was looking awesome. And probably lighter for those crazy about weight...

I see one of those every time I go sailing! Yep, great for repairs - not so great for absorbing heat. White is best really..

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Kimba said..

I used this Primer/<span class="spnSearchHighlight" id="hilite">Filler</span> recently from Super Cheap and it worked better than their name brand paint. $10 vs $16+.
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Primer-Filler-400g.aspx?pid=288527&menuFrom=80304#Cross

It fills and sands really well and you end up with a good dry film thickness - some of the spray can primers seems to have to high a percentage of thinners and dont get all that much coverage.

I use this directly over the filled & sanded laminate and give it a light sand - looks similar to an iSonic hull. If you are spraying the deck this stuff seems to be compatible with most top<span class="spnSearchHighlight" id="hilite">coat</span>s.

Kimba,
I am currently repairing/refurbishing a board and can't readily get a plain grey acrylic spray for finishing so am wondering if I can use the SCA primer filler as a final coat. The deck will get an epoxy /acrylic dust coating for the non-skid. All the other colours below (red, white, black and yellow) are acrylic gloss but the grey is the primer filler.

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sausage said..

Kimba said..

I used this Primer/<span class="spnSearchHighlight" id="hilite">Filler</span> recently from Super Cheap and it worked better than their name brand paint. $10 vs $16+.
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Primer-Filler-400g.aspx?pid=288527&menuFrom=80304#Cross

It fills and sands really well and you end up with a good dry film thickness - some of the spray can primers seems to have to high a percentage of thinners and dont get all that much coverage.

I use this directly over the filled & sanded laminate and give it a light sand - looks similar to an iSonic hull. If you are spraying the deck this stuff seems to be compatible with most top<span class="spnSearchHighlight" id="hilite">coat</span>s.

Kimba,
I am currently repairing/refurbishing a board and can't readily get a plain grey acrylic spray for finishing so am wondering if I can use the SCA primer filler as a final coat. The deck will get an epoxy /acrylic dust coating for the non-skid. All the other colours below (red, white, black and yellow) are acrylic gloss but the grey is the primer filler.

Hey Sausage,
You shouldn't have problems over whatever the white 2 pack(or epoxy filler coat) is beneath. I have 4 boards that have the primer/filler as the topcoat and the only one to have problems was a board that used a stupid combination of polyester and a thermoplastic filler(these soften at elevated temperatures).
The other problem with acrylic is bonding to polyester bog that has not been overfilled and sanded back ie. still tacky. It is similar to the tackiness of polyester laminating resin vs hotcoat or flowcoat. Flowcoat contains wax and allow the surface to harden correctly by containing the styrene in the polyester behind the wax film, in laminating resin the styrene evaporated from the surface leaving it tacky - which is great if you are laminating additional layers or wanting to bond to a flowcoat.

BTW - make sure your paint has cured properly before applying the epoxy nonskid.

2 pack is great if you have the equipment/a commercial setup but for a diy makeover I reckon acrylic is fine. If you get a few scratches or chips you just grab the same can from the shed - no colour matching issues.

This grey board is Primer/Filler over white epoxy with epoxy nonskid.

Cheers Tim - thanks once again for sharing your expertise. Also if I use a white acrylic for the bottom should I spray it with a clear acrylic finish coat and then polish or just polish the acrylic white? Another option is to just use the filler primer and sand as per Starboard's usual hull finish.
BTW - it's a CA SP50 too.

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sausage said..

Cheers Tim - thanks once again for sharing your expertise. Also if I use a white acrylic for the bottom should I spray it with a clear acrylic finish coat and then polish or just polish the acrylic white? Another option is to just use the filler primer and sand as per Starboard's usual hull finish.
BTW - it's a CA SP50 too.

I haven't used clear acrylic finishing coats and now just prefer grey boards. On my first few boards I used gloss acrylic colours over the primer and they were ok out of the gun - I didn't polish them. I prefer being able to give them a light sand and that's it, although polished is now supposed to be faster. The primer/filler might be able to be polished but may also be a bit too soft - I might try my new 7" sander/polisher on one of my old boards...

I finished painting the deck today - I don't think you'll miss it on the water. Thoroughly enjoyed doing it but took some time to mask it out etc. Hopefully I haven't made a rod for my back with future repairs!.

How long should I leave the acrylic paint to dry before applying the epoxy non-slip coat (I'm thinking a week should be more than ample)?

Nice. Very nice.

Just be careful with rolling your epoxy over those singlepack colours - especially yellow and red, they can bleed if you overwork the epoxy. I mitigate by applying a light clearcoat over.
Another think to note, though not with all epoxies - the epoxy can 'bead' on the acrylic like water on wax. I don't profess to know the exact science behind it but I have overcome this in two ways. The first is two let the colours cure completely then light clearcoat and dry for an hour, then epoxy without any mechanical preparation. I get very good adhesion. The other way is a slightly heavier clearcoat and cure for 24hrs before very light abrasion(320 equiv) before gripcoat.
Either way you have to work very quickly if using low viscosity resins lie Resin Research or Dion System 123. Note sure about Kinetics for grip.

Hope this helps