A Starboard Carve 99ltr 60cm has turned up for me to have a try.

It's a fair change for me after riding 92cm wide board.

If 70kg me was to have a crack with a 6.4 freeride sail in about 18kts wind, which would be the wise pick of fin?
6.4 is the smallest i've got, would that be about the biggest sail this board would like?

The location is straight offshore conditions flat-water.
It is handy to be able to get back to the beach, so that should be a consideration in my fin pick for its first voyage with me too.

Also got this boge - age unknown. Strap is Chinook and rubber is Kinetic. Different kind of rubber to other boges i'm using. But i'd like to use this one with the two bolt deck plate.
Poor man always pays twice, but so far with used gear i've avoided swims.
I'll refrain from asking if anyone would use such a boge, i guess that is on me if i want to risk it.
Does age effect boges much?

1 28
2 30
3 32
4 31 pointer
5 33 pointer
6 22 weed
7 30 weed

All of the fins are Tuttle base. Isn't the carve power or US base?

I would start with the nr. 3 fin, that might well be the original one that came with the board. Fin nr 2 might work well too. Optimum fin size will depend on sails size and intended use of the board. With 4 straps in the most outboard position you can use a larger fin for bump and jump, compared to the 3 inboard strap positions which are better suited for wave environments.

A 6.4 sail and smaller should be fine.

I would go for fin number 3.
6.4 will feel big on a board of that size, but should still be ok
I regularly use old boges. I flex them 90 degrees each way before every session and look for cracks and I also check the webbing.
Never had a failure on the water.

Select to expand quote

Gestalt said..
All of the fins are Tuttle base. Isn't the carve power or US base?

It depends a bit on the year perhaps, but it looks to be the 2005 model (?) and those had indeed tuttle, as far as I know.
Great boards that gave the carve series their good reputation.

Select to expand quote

SurferKris said..

Gestalt said..
All of the fins are Tuttle base. Isn't the carve power or US base?

It depends a bit on the year perhaps, but it looks to be the 2005 model (?) and those had indeed tuttle, as far as I know.
Great boards that gave the carve series their good reputation.

did a Google and think you must be right.

The straps are all wonky, front pair have forward screws in the inboard holes and rear screws in the outboard holes, rear strap has forward screw in the centre hole, rear in the left outboard. Was it set up like this when you got it?!? If you plonk a largish fin in it, and get powered up with your 6.4, you want the straps outboard. With a smaller less pointy fin, inboard. That said, if you are progressing, the inboard position will feel easier to start with no matter the fin, and it is easier to find the rear strap with your foot. But soon you will want to move to the outboard positions and get more leverage when powered up with a larger fin. But you need to pick one way or the other, your stance will be very awkward with it set up like it is in the pic. Have you got the fourth strap?
Looks like a nice board, and no problem at all with a 6.4, specially in flat conditions. Enjoy!

Nom 1 is it's supplied fin (I'm making an educated guess. I can't remember the size fin it came with, but I used to own this exact board) but I think all but the 22 might work with it (with varying degrees of how well in different wind strengths). unless your sailing spot has weed, I wouldn't bother with the weedies, you're just removing some enjoyment using them.

as for the universal joint, it'll depend on whether it's been used regularly or not. The rubber does perish and turn brittle with age and disuse. Using it causes wear and tear, but it keeps it supple. If it's been sitting unused for a long period of time (let's say a year plus.) the rubber may have gone brittle and snap at the first sign of stress.

Select to expand quote

musorianin said..
The straps are all wonky, front pair have forward screws in the inboard holes and rear screws in the outboard holes, rear strap has forward screw in the centre hole, rear in the left outboard. Was it set up like this when you got it?!? If you plonk a largish fin in it, and get powered up with your 6.4, you want the straps outboard. With a smaller less pointy fin (like 6 or 7), inboard. But your stance will be awkward with it set up like it is in the pic. Have you got the fourth strap?

Can't speak of the front straps, but I would hazard a guess that the rear strap, rear screw is detached because it sits over the Tuttle bolt holes.

^^^Hadn't thought of that, bit of a design flaw, no?

Select to expand quote

musorianin said..
^^^Hadn't thought of that, bit of a design flaw, no?

Yep, I'd say so too. I guess that's why we don't see that problem on newer boards

I've angled my rear strap a bit like that for wave riding, helps get foot closer to the inside rail, for carving turns.
I use a 6.2 koncept on the 48cm board. I'd think a 60cm wide board would be very happy with a 6.4

Looks like it might be from 2003 or before 2004, here is what Starboard said in 2004 (not sure if direct links will work): web.archive.org/web/20041222002618/http://2004.star-board.com/products/carve.asp
web.archive.org/web/20051214150405/http://2004.star-board.com:80/products/carve.asp

Yes it is tuttle box.
I think it might be 03. Brother said serial might tell, it ends in 0813.

Select to expand quote

musorianin said..Enjoy!

Thanks for the tips, helpful.
The straps are all wonky. And perished, i've got 4 new ones.
I have some practice riding 92cm board so i am thinking i'll be ok with outboard straps on it. I'll try that first and come back to one if no good.

Select to expand quote

Subsonic said..Nom 1 is it's supplied fin (I'm making an educated guess.

Me too, #1 is Starboard Free 28 same colors, surely.

Sailing mentor mobdog says small boards wont work here like the big wide ones. I'm starting to believe him, hard to imagine much more fun than riding those big boards. The wind line is offshore and there are vortexs and holes in it sometimes. Rare that it is clean 20kts. Maybe this year though. Then i could see this board being fun here.

I'll refrain from asking how fast it can go. Because i know people make the JP SLW like mine go 30kts and i cant get more than low 20's on it. Trying to work out if its the venue or the sailor.
Also i see that so many people my size, some similar ability level i think, are on boards this size all the time. It will be a good test.
I'll get it ready and hopefully get a go at in the next few days.

I probably should be stepping down from the SLW to something like freerace 115ltr to use with 6.5 - 8.5 i think, if anyone has one of those in the Newcastle region selling please sing out.

Select to expand quote

MobZ said..
Yes it is tuttle box.
I think it might be 03. Brother said serial might tell, it ends in 0813.

musorianin said..Enjoy!

Thanks for the tips, helpful.
The straps are all wonky. And perished, i've got 4 new ones.
I have some practice riding 92cm board so i am thinking i'll be ok with outboard straps on it. I'll try that first and come back to one if no good.

Subsonic said..Nom 1 is it's supplied fin (I'm making an educated guess.

Me too, #1 is Starboard Free 28 same colors, surely.

Sailing mentor mobdog says small boards wont work here like the big wide ones. I'm starting to believe him, hard to imagine much more fun than riding those big boards. The wind line is offshore and there are vortexs and holes in it sometimes. Rare that it is clean 20kts. Maybe this year though. Then i could see this board being fun here.

I'll refrain from asking how fast it can go. Because i know people make the JP SLW like mine go 30kts and i cant get more than low 20's on it. Trying to work out if its the venue or the sailor.
Also i see that so many people my size, some similar ability level i think, are on boards this size all the time. It will be a good test.
I'll get it ready and hopefully get a go at in the next few days.

I probably should be stepping down from the SLW to something like freerace 115ltr to use with 6.5 - 8.5 i think, if anyone has one of those in the Newcastle region selling please sing out.

If you're thinking of putting the money out on another board I'd get a new mast base or bogey for this one first. You don't want a failure where you sail and they don't cost much.
boardcrazy.com.au/shop/windsurfing/components/tendon-mast-base/
Check with others on here or the shop that it is the right one before you buy.

I had a Carve 99 and great versatile board. I had finished slalom racing and spent a lot of time wavesailing but the carve was my Auckland board so flatwater practicing duck gybes, freestyle moves and onshore bump, jump and loop.
The biggest sail I used was Hot sails 7m stealth freeride sail that was fast loose leach raf and I could keep up with average slalom sailors. Then changed to Hot sails Pycho 6.8m and better for getting going, easy rotation and higher cut foot for easier duck gybes but not quite as fast.
In the average onshore sailing, I used a Hot sails 5.9m spider.
All the time using the standard fin. From those listed I like #2 as it's still going to go fast enough but it's going to gybe the best.
For you sailing in offshore and needing to point then #4 looks the best followed by #3 & 2.
Weed has never been an issue, ok sometimes after a storm but chop hope will clear it, I guess it depends on your local sailing conditions.
Some of those fins I would resand the tips but thats me

Select to expand quote

musorianin said..
The straps are all wonky,

I'm not seeing an unwonky version for single rear strap option

It would seem so! If you use out board positions, it won't matter. Otherwise, what decrepit said a few posts above!

It would seem so! If you use out board positions, it won't matter. Otherwise, what decrepit said a few posts above!

Select to expand quote

MobZ said..

musorianin said..
The straps are all wonky,

I'm not seeing an unwonky version for single rear strap option

Yeah right, i don't remember mine being like that, but probably just my bad memory.

There's a formula for fins in boards around 100litres. It's sail size X 5. 6m equals 30cm. So 6.4m should use 32cm. Then if you are under powered add 2cm over powered take 2cm away.

Boards over that size is x5 plus 4.

This is just a general formula and may be slightly different for different size people, ability etc.

Select to expand quote

MobZ said..

musorianin said..
The straps are all wonky, l

I'm not seeing an unwonky version for single rear strap option

I

front fin bolt through rear strap. Front of strap in forward screw hole.

Yes mobdog just came and pointed that out. He said maybe ment to have a spacer plug in fin screw void when doing that.
Anyway, if I ever need it as one strap now I know. Beauty.
Thanks to all for the tips.

Select to expand quote

musorianin said..
^^^Hadn't thought of that, bit of a design flaw, no?

Not if you use double rear straps, which I did when I owned one of these exact boards. Double rear straps on the outboard position will also work better with the 33 cm fin and 6.4m sail. Those FinWorks fins were very good fins in their day and still work very well.

All the 28-33 fins should work, but my choice would be 5, 2 and 3 in that order with a 6.4m sail, which is at the larger end for this board.

The Boge rubber uni is one of the best ever made. I have used them for everything for over 30 years. I have had a few failures, but only after many years of hard use. Now I always check them before a session. If there is any sign of a crack in the rubber, especially around the very top and bottom rims, I take another one and discard the cracked one. I have not had a failure in over 6 years since I started this habit. If there are no crackeds in the rubber, and since you have a safety strap on it, I would think it would be low risk to use it.

Boge joints are not sold under that name any more AFAIK, but they are still made under another name I think,. I have a box full of new ones so I am fine for quite a while.

Two goes at it so far with drake 32 fin. The others have issues i have to fix first.
Two straps on the back.

session 1; using 6.4 at offshore spot in patchy 12-17kts. I decided to head straight back upwind to the beach after a couple of slow runs and almost getting it going, rather than trying to send it out into the deep. I chose the longest 100m swim i hope i ever have to do. No good.

session2; took it to cross-shore spot in the lake and stronger wind. I got in the straps and was pretty happy with that. For some reason i was going really upwind heading out, spinning out alot, and downwind coming back, going down the chops. That got scary but nice. I I went the fastest i've ever gone 24.9kts and then unhooked and did another unintentional cannonball off the back.

Maybe coming from 92cm big board i am used to alot of backfoot pressure and also i was worried about not getting back thats why i headed upwind so much way out, and spinning it out.

I just got given a 5.3 NP combat sail. Mast i've got for it is Tushingham sdm 19imcs
Is it suitable for learning to blast around in stronger wind on this board being a wave sail?

You want to make sure the masts matches the sail specs, generally best to use the same brand.

Not a problem using wave sails for blasting, many including myself do that. These sails are amazing in their handling and nice and light feeling while still fast. They can also be quite forgiving and I like them particularly when fully powered up.

How does the downhaul look, is that too much leech?

Select to expand quote

MobZ said..
How does the downhaul look, is that too much leech?

Looks fine. Depending on conditions, even a bit more to

Select to expand quote

MobZ said..
Maybe coming from 92cm big board i am used to alot of backfoot pressure and also i was worried about not getting back thats why i headed upwind so much way out, and spinning it out.

may also be, since you are used to a much wider board, pushing too much with the heels and getting the windward rail down in the water. Both carving upwind and spinning would be symptoms of that. Push on the toes especially of the back foot to keep the board flat or slightly railed to leeward.

Digging the windward rail in will also make it more difficult to get on a plane.