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Enlarging a tuttle box fin head for better fit

Created by eckas eckas  > 9 months ago, 16 Apr 2018
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eckas
eckas

NSW

323 posts

16 Apr 2018 1:44pm
One for the brains trust...

Got a tuttle box fin that currently sits too deeply in a deep-tuttle box. I've no idea if the fin head us undersize or the box is oversize, but it's sitting about 1mm beneath the board base.

Any tips or tricks for bulking out the fore and aft end of the fin head to bring it up flush with the bottom of the board? (The bulk required is too much to be accommodated by just some layers of tape).

The bulking out with fibreglass and resin (potentially in several steps) is not complicated, but I'd love some wisdom on how to maintain the right radius and straightness of the bulked out areas to ensure nice, even pressure distribution and transfer from the fin to the box. Are there any moulds or jigs that are useful or does one just bulk it out roughly and sand back carefully by eye to match the box shape as best as possible?

Thanks...
Tardy
Tardy

5292 posts

16 Apr 2018 12:03pm
Shelley's knead it, is good stuff.
Imax1
Imax1

QLD

4926 posts

16 Apr 2018 2:55pm
Clean one end with a light sandpaper. With a brush paint on a layer of Araldyte. Because it is quite thick it should add about 0.3mm which should be plenty. If not both sides . Sand back if its too much.
Personally i wouldn't worry about 1mm , 2mm i would .
I wonder at what depth one can feel the drag of a sunk in fin or if it creates cavitation ???
Subsonic
Subsonic

WA

3384 posts

16 Apr 2018 2:16pm
Select to expand quote
Imax1 said..
Clean one end with a light sandpaper. With a brush paint on a layer of Araldyte. Because it is quite thick it should add about 0.3mm which should be plenty. If not both sides . Sand back if its too much.
Personally i wouldn't worry about 1mm , 2mm i would .
I wonder at what depth one can feel the drag of a sunk in fin or if it creates cavitation ???


Id rather have a 3mm sunk in fin than one that sits 0.5mm proud. In the never ending quest for speed though...
pepe47
pepe47

WA

1382 posts

16 Apr 2018 4:08pm
Select to expand quote
Imax1 said..
Clean one end with a light sandpaper. With a brush paint on a layer of Araldyte. Because it is quite thick it should add about 0.3mm which should be plenty. If not both sides . Sand back if its too much.
Personally i wouldn't worry about 1mm , 2mm i would .
I wonder at what depth one can feel the drag of a sunk in fin or if it creates cavitation ???


And if you want to get fancy, throw some mill fibre in with the mix.
Mark _australia
Mark _australia

WA

23526 posts

16 Apr 2018 4:58pm
more fancy would be resin and aluminium dust, ridiculously harder wearing.

I agree that 1mm too deep is not a concern.....

However to get it spot on you could wax the inside of box and insert fin the right depth with filler on the ends. Then you are literally moulding that fin head to the box. Clean really well after as you don't want slippery box, its a taper lock...
Te Hau
Te Hau

495 posts

16 Apr 2018 6:19pm
Or you can cut strips of plastic from a milk bottle. Use the corners of the bottle to get a lengthwise curve on the strip. 15mm wide, as long as you need (30mm?), slide the strip in with your fin. Flush fin fit the easy way.
sailquik
sailquik

VIC

6166 posts

16 Apr 2018 8:39pm
Select to expand quote
Te Hau said..
Or you can cut strips of plastic from a milk bottle. Use the corners of the bottle to get a lengthwise curve on the strip. 15mm wide, as long as you need (30mm?), slide the strip in with your fin. Flush fin fit the easy way.


+1. I use strips of yellow plastic cut from the lids of Margarine containers. Hold them on the fins for fitting with a dob of any glue.
Mastbender
Mastbender

1972 posts

18 Apr 2018 1:50am
If that 1mm really bugs you, but the fin fits fairly well where it does (albeit deep), why not just built up the top of the fin head (next to the fin) instead of the sides? Way more easier, much smaller job, w/o any fear of it breaking down under pressure because it isn't under any.
Mastbender
Mastbender

1972 posts

18 Apr 2018 6:33am
Select to expand quote
Mastbender said..
If that 1mm really bugs you, but the fin fits fairly well where it does (albeit deep), why not just build up the top of the fin head (next to the fin) instead of the sides? Way more easier, much smaller job, w/o any fear of it breaking down under pressure because it isn't under any.






Imax1
Imax1

QLD

4926 posts

18 Apr 2018 8:57am
^^^
That got me thinking , If your going to do this , would it be better to add a nice radius from base to fin like a dolphins fin would ? You dont see that on fins its always a sharp non flowing type right angle ?
Whats the go , i would think a nice flowing join would be best ?
Mark _australia
Mark _australia

WA

23526 posts

18 Apr 2018 8:13am
^^^ weed wave
NotWal
NotWal

QLD

7435 posts

18 Apr 2018 10:49am
Select to expand quote
Imax1 said..
^^^
That got me thinking , If your going to do this , would it be better to add a nice radius from base to fin like a dolphins fin would ? You dont see that on fins its always a sharp non flowing type right angle ?
Whats the go , i would think a nice flowing join would be best ?


www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Gps/FangyFin-MkII-Theory-for-insomniacs?page=1
Imax1
Imax1

QLD

4926 posts

18 Apr 2018 11:26am
Select to expand quote
NotWal said..

Imax1 said..
^^^
That got me thinking , If your going to do this , would it be better to add a nice radius from base to fin like a dolphins fin would ? You dont see that on fins its always a sharp non flowing type right angle ?
Whats the go , i would think a nice flowing join would be best ?



www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Gps/FangyFin-MkII-Theory-for-insomniacs?page=1


^^^
Yeeeesssss , just like that
eckas
eckas

NSW

323 posts

24 Apr 2018 7:21am
Te Hau - your milk bottle suggestion using the precurved corners of the mild bottle for easy fitment was a pearler! One strip front and back and the fin is a beautiful, flush fit. Thanks All.
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