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keef said..awesome stuff Tim your unit cost $300 all up and play with carbon want $150 just for the pot, admittedly it has a pressure gauge but you cant see through it , I haven't used it yet but hopefully it will work , I need to put a paper cup in the jar but at least I can see it filling
www.playwithcarbon.com/vacuum-catch-pot/ Hi Keef, are you using clear vacuum lines - then you can time the clamping before it reaches the resin trap.
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FormulaNova said..
If you want the cheaper way to have an electronic pressure switch, I used this voltage switch and a MAP sensor from a Commodore:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5377
The map sensor needs 5v and puts out a voltage depending on the vacuum, and you can set the hysteresis as well.
One thing I was amazed at was the difference vacuum reservoirs make. I setup two 4" PVC pipes that run along the garage wall and sealed them to use as vacuum reservoirs. I used an air-line fitting on each, and when I plug them in, the compressor cycle times change dramatically. It goes from cycling every 30 seconds or so to every 15 minutes or so. So much better.
I have read of people using LPG cylinders as reservoirs. Sadly, I think they are better in that the volume is close to what I got but take up a lot less space. I am not sure how they connect the vacuum lines to them though. With the PVC, you can just drill and tap the plastic and it seals well.
Hi FormulaNova, I was looking into the cylinder option but chose class 12 80mm pvc(100 would be shorter) as I had some spare at work, the class 18 caps were only $3 direct for the distributor. If you are to but the caps locally they can be up to $15 - robbery! As you say they can be easily tapped with any thread type. I used some OLD pvc pipe cement and ended up having some leaks(dropped about 0.1kpa/s) and so filleted all joints with silicone, minimal pressure drop now.
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Bertie said..
Top stuff Kimba.
Now what do you intend on making with your new toy??
Have you considered using vacuum level from inside the part rather than just inside the accumulators to actuate the pressure switch ? There by giving you more control on the vacuum on the actual part.
Hi Bertie, a couple of Boards are in the pipeline. First up is a Lake George speed special called the
HD Creeper 48 (Hemer Design 48 x 245), templates are cut, the foam monolith is in the shed, just finishing off a NEW hotwire bow with proper power supply.
I will measure the part pressure with an analogue gauge and have the option to control the part with the digital switch. I will start out with it on the vacuum reservoirs first and see how it goes. If I place it on the part and have a blockage or uneven pressure I could pull higher pressures elsewhere and damage the board, this is greatest concern and may not be an issue but I have not tried it this way before.
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decrepit said..
Kimba, great job mate, looks a hell of a lot better than mine.
Mine's very Heath Robinson, bits and pieces from all over with wires and tubes in all directions. Pressure gauge is an old automotive Intake manifold vacuum gauge, I normally run it on "fair"
That's a better idea Bertie but a bit harder to do, guess you'd need 2 lines going to the job.
I think my sensor is too close to the pump, but I'm using the biggest gas bottle as reservoir, normally cycles between 2 and 5 minutes depending on seal.
Hysteresis was my problem, my sensor has none, was cycling much too fast initially. I had to incorporate a time delay into the cct, otherwise the motor would continually be in the start cycle.
Keef, did you make that carbon lid? The first trap I made, the lid caved in, should have thought to make a carbon one.
I use my trap mainly for sucking water out of boards, don't think I'll get into infusion.
Thanks Mike, I thought it looked quite Mad Scientist like...
I think the hysteresis is adjustable on the gauge and I will aim for a nice compromise, at the moment it is running about 5kPa past the set point. I am sure the cycle time will be different once I am bagging boards.