I've recently received a replacement batten (end blade) for my Gaastra GTX 7.5, but it's about 100mm too long. It was the only one I could get hold of seeing "Gaastra are a bit slack with replacement battens" (quote from w/s retailer). I've got an idea of what to do, but need some advice/confirmation.

The whole batten consists of a carbon tube, and a f/g 'tapered blade' that fits between the tube & fits into the cam (this is the part that snapped)...which should I cut?

Do I:-

1. Cut the old tube batten shorter to suit the longer blade, seeing the new blade is longer than the original? Will this affect the sail shape & integrity?

2. Cut and re-shape the blade to match the broken one, and just replace that part? If I get this wrong, it will result in another broken batten & maybe a damaged sail this time...

Hmmmm...Sounds like a job for Sailhack

If it has a solid F/glass tip which goes in to cam and that is the same length as your original batten the cut the tube I would recommend cutting the tube anyway as mucking around with the other end is a pain in the freckle.

For cutting tube, you can do with a fine tooth hacksaw but my preferred method is to use a small plumbers pipe cutter.

Doing it this way gives a nice square end (good for joining batons) however you will need to have a piece of neet fitting dowel or fibreglass batten rod inside the tube underneath the area which you will be cutting. Use the pipe cutter in the normal method just go lightly and no probs.

Remember Measure Twice, Cut Once

I have replaced a few of these. They tend to break about 10-12 cm back from the tip on the second or third battern from bottom of sail.

I cut the fibre glass rod part of the batten, not the carbon tube.

Before cutting, I look at the batten rod (tip part) from the side and look at thickness, I then check the flex. You can bend the broken batten and the new batten and see how the the flex/curve compares (remember to bend the new batten from the point where the old one broke - so you are comparing like with like - but make sure you allow for the length of the broken bit before cutting!).

You then have to make the decision - do you cut only the tip, or the back end as well - where the rod part of batten goes into the tube part with that arrow head shaped connector doovy (tech term), and also assuming you can get the rod part out of the arrow head shaped connector. I base this on flex - will simply cutting the tip shorter make the batten too stiff? If so, you should cut the back end as well. All in all, with a hacksaw, a measure and a marking pen... this should take about ten minutes - including getting the batten back in the sail!

Good luck with it...

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NotWal said...

Hmmmm...Sounds like a job for Sailhack

sounds like a job for Battenhack

Soooo....

The score so far:-

From 4 replies -

1 for cutting tube

1 for cutting/re-shaping batten...

...and 2 just taking the pi$$!

Sailhack, check out Kimba's blog it has a whole section on battern repair.
whitelionwindsurfing.blogspot.com/ we had good wind here Sunday and Monday did you get the same 20 to 25 SE there.

Jimbob, thanks for the link...different setup, although will keep in mind for other sails.
We got about 15kts here, and 'endured' a very sloppy sail on Sunday...with a very sloppy head!

Mental note to self...next time I'm invited to a 'buck's night' that starts at 11:30am - pace myself!

The sail is useless, I've emailed my address to you,send me your bank details and I'll pay the freight and see that it is disposed of properly.

Hey Sailhack,
This worked for me. Do not know whether it is the right thing to do or not. I had a split tube on mine and I had a spare tube that I cut to length with a hack saw. I made sure that I cut around the tube completely before I cut through to ensure it did not splitter. My other theory was, I was concerned that if I change the length of the F/g vs the Tube as compared to the original that it may change the shaping of the sail under load. So I made sure the new batten had the same dimensions on tube and f/g as the old. I am no expert and my thoughts may be utter crapola.

The furry is right I think, and his recommendation is the neatest and nicest.
If you cut the blade you have to try and keep the integrity of the fibers and not let them splay.
The QAD is to cut the pipe end with a hacksaw but get it square, tape it first and go as fine a blade as possible.
Does it have an extender on the end of the batten, a thing that slots in and makes the batten length adjustable?

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graceman said...

Does it have an extender on the end of the batten, a thing that slots in and makes the batten length adjustable?

Yep, a grub screw in a nylon sleeve. Either way, I'll make sure it's cut to the exact length of the original. The fibres in the blade were what worried me, as I know that any variation in the shape of the wedge will create a weak spot...but I wasn't sure if the sail shape would carry the longer blade. Instinct tells me to just cut the carbon tube batten down, then again, instinct has led me astray in the past.

[edit] hey pirrad, got your email, I'll bring the sail over if you like...and you can also have my new car (which has suffered a flat tyre, therefore useless to me). Whilst you're at it, you might as well have my house, as the front door handle is a bit seized up...

Repaired a few of these myself ,although mine broke closer to the end by the sounds of it,about 50mm,more like shattered and proved impossible to get out with the pinching along the pocket technique because of the splintered ends, ended up cutting a small hole in the side of batten pocket and pulling it out with pointy nose pliers,being careful on inserting the new batten past the hole it had no affect on the life of the sail.I was fortunate to have a full set of battens salvaged from a sail i had killed and just picked the closest one on a visual and flex test,NEVER did i contemplate cutting the tube batten.For cutting battens and tubes for other projects i have found the 1mm blades in the angle grinder give a good clean cut.

PS.What sort of car?
Wifey doesn't want to move,thanks anyway.
Wanted:7.5 mtr GTX[can repair minor defects]

I agree with Pirrad. A 1mm cutoff blade in a 100mm dia angle grinder cuts carbon tubes perfectly

Learned the expensive way that GTX 7 and 8 have got to have lots of downhaul.
The sail still has good low wind perfpormance if it billows no more than half way towards the boom. And stay with positive outhaul. If the cams come over with a bang you will only get a month before damage to the fibreglas batten end is starting.

PS Cutting the front of the carbon section would lead to complications as the front fibreglas when inserted normally comes up hard about 60 mm in..