Hi carbon gurus !

I just landed myself a sweet lightwind board I intend to use for foiling.
It's an AHD formula carbon construction. Not so uggly , but way too long to fit in my Hyundai H1.

I tried it yesterday, love it ! So now considering shortening it to fit the car + make it more jibe friendly (a much better foiler than me tried it and told me so )
It's already been fixed once underneath and covered with a large monopad (great for foiling)

Could do with a good 20 cm off. here are the pics.

How would you do it ? (please don't go too technical in terms or I'll have to use google translate )
I'm keen to have go, no vacuum pump or other magic tools at home !
BTW I paid 50$ for it


Cheers
sean

awesome ! thanks choco !!!

More than 1 way to bake a cake. The nose is not tied into the board, its epoxyied to the end.I dont use Pour foam, to fill cavities, IF I did it wouldn't come in a can, I use 2 stage 8lbs version .I use at least 1 layer of carbon. I feel its possib le to snap the new nose right off. The change in nose rocker , IMO is not enough, once planing its ok,probably.

The builders concept and execution is good.

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forceten said..
More than 1 way to bake a cake. The nose is not tied into the board, its epoxyied to the end.I dont use Pour foam, to fill cavities, IF I did it wouldn't come in a can, I use 2 stage 8lbs version .I use at least 1 layer of carbon. I feel its possib le to snap the new nose right off. The change in nose rocker , IMO is not enough, once planing its ok,probably.

The builders concept and execution is good.

Does Google translate do double Dutch?? ??

Mark_oz ??? still in the shed ? your opinion ?

Haha yeah

I like his videos as he does a lot of stuff different but acceptable.
This is probably the best easy way to increase the nose rocker IMHO. ie: nice balance of best and easy.

Only substitution I'd make is use a glue- the Tarzan's Grip High Strength Glue ( that looks like honey and has virtually no smell, NOT the extreme glue or whatever they call it) sets really hard and a bit better adhesion than spray foam. It still foams enough to fill holes.

Forget carbon, its too brittle on a nose, you'd be better with glass.

For only 200mm cutoff and depending on the board, you'd probably get away with not changing the nose rocker anyway.

Always loved the get it done style in this thread.......

www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/General/The-old-cut-the-nose-off-trick

Mark, I found this interesting.
www.christinedemerchant.com/carbon-kevlar-glass-comparison.html

I hate using Kevlar . On the nose , top side , not so much the pointy leading edge, I use carbon.

Your comment on nose rocker, 20cm off , a direct comparison, board 1, not much modification , when just sailing the nose liked to pearl. Board 2 , I made increased rocker, much better . Lots of variables here.

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Naish Titan 109L, nose cut, tail reshaped, quad boxes ,removed power-box relocated footstraps inserts, mast track, all moved forward. Size a educated guesstimate 96Liters.
Board s name is Red October. Cause the hydro semi tunnels between the fins. Fin boxes are SURF ProBox front, Flikka Slotbox rear.

It has standard rails, except the new nose and tail. So they are Freeride. Everyone who has ridden this comes back amazed, mostly me as I'm used to mostly dismal results.

The tunnels are a touch THAT I tried, I dont really feel any significant improvement, but no adverse trait either.
It sails absolutes wonderful, comparison boards are a Flikka FSW 99L, and a Witchcraft Chakra 88L.

Board cost $50 , materials probably $350 +

Nice job Forceten!

Step one:


Seanhogan, let me know if step one is not too complicated for you then I'll progress to step 2.

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Dar said..
Nice job Forceten!

Thanks, this is so far my crowning glory.

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Dar said..
Nice job Forceten!

Thanks, this is so far my crowning glory.

just discovered it's an "air inside"..... (not by cutting it open, learnt it from the "experts" at the beach : originally belonged to AA, not that this changes anything LOL)

Soooo...... same approach or different technique for a hollow board ?

You would still need something to lay the glass/carbon up on.... so I think you will still need to use the above methods.

soooooo,

I got started (sorry for the huge pictures...) :
peeled off the nose and measured the angle

chopped the extra bit


Hummm, so foam in the nose....maybe not "airinside" ? (actually yes but not in the nose, (crash damage control apparently)


a good amount of poly foam to have something to shape


once hand shaped and smoothed out with micro cell epoxy, went to get the help of our local shaping legend Jean Lou Colmas, a layer of kevlar, four layers of glass


a layer of carbon


another layer of glass (ultra thin stuff) / epoxy cell/ sanding, then car bog sanded down, ready to paint


a custom tiki logo and voila ! ready to foil !

Great job Sean!
But so much for it being hollow. Good job really made it much easier.

Personally I would have given it more overlap, just for safety's sake.

Thanks Decrepit, couldn't have done it without J Lou's expertise, but loved learning all the process, except maybe
sanding......
It's actually hollow but further to the back.
Facts I gathered were that is was a hollow prototype made for A2 (ahd nt98 hollow) , then repainted to match the next season production colours. (ahd 956 not hollow)

I just couldn't find one similar in all my google searches !!

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seanhogan said..
Thanks Decrepit, couldn't have done it without J Lou's expertise, but loved learning all the process, except maybe
sanding......
It's actually hollow but further to the back.
Facts I gathered were that is was a hollow prototype made for A2 (ahd nt98 hollow) , then repainted to match the next season production colours. (ahd 956 not hollow)

I just couldn't find one similar in all my google searches !!

Looks like this one





Repainted in JP colours as he changed sponsors and they didn't have a formula shape

Awesome job. I've done two of my own very similarly and a couple more are on the schedule once I get some pressing real world stuff done.

One thing that's made the whole process easier is the design trend in production boards of the flat nose like the Stubby and Blast. A year ago, when contemplating this, I'd spend a lot of time trying to draw curves of what the new nose would look like. Now, sort of straight cuts are fashionable, acceptable and- performance-wise - work just fine.

A note if you are doing a shorter board - beware rounding the nose entry too much. Leave a bit of flat before you round. Otherwise, the water tends to wrap around the nose and give a wet ride which is more noticeable in winter-time. Someone had made mention of it but I didn't grasp it until my ankles kept getting a cold spray.

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windsurftom said..


Looks like this one



Repainted in JP colours as he changed sponsors and they didn't have a formula shape

Yes indeed ! same as the blue one, (except not production as those were not hollow)
Smart find for the JP Windsurftom !!!! Exactly the deco under the foam on the nose !

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Mark _australia said..
Haha yeah

I like his videos as he does a lot of stuff different but acceptable.
This is probably the best easy way to increase the nose rocker IMHO. ie: nice balance of best and easy.

Only substitution I'd make is use a glue- the Tarzan's Grip High Strength Glue ( that looks like honey and has virtually no smell, NOT the extreme glue or whatever they call it) sets really hard and a bit better adhesion than spray foam. It still foams enough to fill holes.

Forget carbon, its too brittle on a nose, you'd be better with glass.

For only 200mm cutoff and depending on the board, you'd probably get away with not changing the nose rocker anyway.

SO - am I right in thinking that by sectioning (as it would be called in hot rod car building) the "V" to reduce the nose thickness and then flexing and gluing to itself surely he is introducing a permanent heavy tension into the skin that would crack and fail? I know the newer glass and resins are better and its still sandwiched to the foam, but when we built our wave boards a hundred years ago (ok the mid 80's) we would get lots of stress cracks running at about 90 degrees to the stringer on the top of the nose as opposed to the underside which always confused me, until it was explained as the top skin failing in sheer i.e the nose flexing down and the glass/resin/skin cracking. Would you expect this board to last? If not it seems a lot of work for a short life. Asking as Im sure others are thinking of rejigging boards for foiling.