I have almost every thing sorted in the program vee rails tuck concaves rocker outline. But I can't get the very top of the nose perfect or the tip of the tail when doing squash, square and stubby type rails.
Mark I can email you some finished shapes for you to play with, I have some very similar to what you like
Even though I can shape a board in the program I don't see the point as I don't know anyone in Perth who can cut them. It only makes sense if you were making a lot of the same board, otherwise it's easier to handshape a one of custom.

Select to expand quote

R1DER said..
>>> I don't see the point as I don't know anyone in Perth who can cut them. It only makes sense if you were making a lot of the same board, otherwise it's easier to handshape a one of custom.

My next do neighbour to my new workshop, CNC shapes surfboards to shape 3d files, but it would mean a trip to Mandurah.

Select to expand quote

Imax1 said..
Seriously that lawn , could you not quickly run a mower over it.
Did you use a template for the outline ?

It needs more than that! very patchy lawn I'm thinking fertilizer applications more consistent watering.

Select to expand quote

decrepit said..

R1DER said..
>>> I don't see the point as I don't know anyone in Perth who can cut them. It only makes sense if you were making a lot of the same board, otherwise it's easier to handshape a one of custom.

My next do neighbour to my new workshop, CNC shapes surfboards to shape 3d files, but it would mean a trip to Mandurah.

Hmm that's sounds promising can he get and cut big enough blocks for a sailboard?

He's making 9' 4" mals, it's a big machine so I'm sure a sailboard wouldn't be a problem, but he hasn't done much work with eps yet.
I'm sure future foam would supply him with the necessary foam.
I'll PM you his phone number.

Select to expand quote

R1DER said..

Imax1 said..
Seriously that lawn , could you not quickly run a mower over it.
Did you use a template for the outline ?

It needs more than that! very patchy lawn I'm thinking fertilizer applications more consistent watering.

It's a ****ing driveway

Select to expand quote

forceten said..
It's a ****ing driveway

You've got to realise we're only Aussies, can't be expected to follow and remember the whole thread.

Select to expand quote

decrepit said..

forceten said..
It's a ****ing driveway

You've got to realise we're only Aussies, can't be expected to follow and remember the whole thread.

Driveways matter !
Thats why we need pics

Select to expand quote

decrepit said..
He's making 9' 4" mals, it's a big machine so I'm sure a sailboard wouldn't be a problem, but he hasn't done much work with eps yet.
I'm sure future foam would supply him with the necessary foam.
I'll PM you his phone number.

Thanks

Select to expand quote

decrepit said..
He's making 9' 4" mals, it's a big machine so I'm sure a sailboard wouldn't be a problem, but he hasn't done much work with eps yet.
I'm sure future foam would supply him with the necessary foam.
I'll PM you his phone number.

Thanks

Select to expand quote

forceten said..

R1DER said..

Imax1 said..
Seriously that lawn , could you not quickly run a mower over it.
Did you use a template for the outline ?

It needs more than that! very patchy lawn I'm thinking fertilizer applications more consistent watering.

It's a ****ing driveway

Oh! I think that's your problem then if your going to have a grass driveway the cars can be very damaging to the grass and make it very unsightly. Not sure a trim water and fertilizer is going to to help if you keep driving on it.

Select to expand quote

R1DER said..

decrepit said..
He's making 9' 4" mals, it's a big machine so I'm sure a sailboard wouldn't be a problem, but he hasn't done much work with eps yet.
I'm sure future foam would supply him with the necessary foam.
I'll PM you his phone number.

Thanks

forceten said..

R1DER said..

Imax1 said..
Seriously that lawn , could you not quickly run a mower over it.
Did you use a template for the outline ?

It needs more than that! very patchy lawn I'm thinking fertilizer applications more consistent watering.

It's a ****ing driveway

Oh! I think that's your problem then if your going to have a grass driveway the cars can be very damaging to the grass and make it very unsightly. Not sure a trim water and fertilizer is going to to help if you keep driving on it.

The edges also look neglected . A $30 wipper snipper at Walmart would fix that toot sweet .

I have been extremely busy working on my lawn.
anticipate a photo or 2 today.

lots done after this, the sides look the same, mostly

C,mon !
We all know that's not your lawn .
Do you have contacts at the local lawn bowls club ?

Sorry man that outline needs fixing first. Make a template out of something like 3mm MDF sheet for half the board, with a straight edge down centre. Draw the outline on one side, flip then draw outline to other side. Now its symmetrical.
Sand exactly to that, and make sure its a square edge down to about 1.5" below the rail. You can't get anything done without a perfect outline on the bottom and a square rail.

Then mark the rail tuck on the bottom, and the rail apex. I mark the rail apex, measuring down from the bottom AFTER the divinycell is vacuumed onto the bottom. If you're just using glass and wood or whatever, the error is only like 1.5mm so don;'t worry you could mark it now.
I mark the rail apex in a different colour as it is the LAST line remaining on the shaped board, then rounded off very gently. Will post pics later to show

this should be pretty good on outline now. I use my template and measures at 10cm lengths. Yesterday saw big advances towards that.
Thanks Mark.
I have been past some suggestions, but feel from my previous rail experience, and iam using a gauge of an existing board to compare.

this had extensive rework from a NAISH Titan .

the grass is my back yard .Once riding this I sold a very expensive board, this is better, one fault and not really is it like wide instead of snappy turns . May suit me better.

results from yesterday
still have
a few areas to size up. Iam taking it slowly.
this is the area where my sailboat parks , it is driveway also.

Shape now looks good. I think I still have enough to square the rails , and use the formula.I will have to double check, my measures.
the thickness is way off, needs to reduce.
iam happy with the progress, it looks good to me.

You really need to fair up the outline as Mark suggested.

Forceten yes that rail is still wonky. You need to make an outline template and draw it on the board with a perfect line to work to.

Too busy for lots of pics but here's some OK ones. I don't have a pic of outline marking, but as I said, a centerline and a half board plan shape template to draw around, flip it over and draw other side so its perfectly symmetrical and a perfect line to sand to.

Here is first rail tuck shaped in and the rail apex line marked. I mark it in red so it simply can't be touched until the very last moment. The board is upside down with the corecell having been vac bagged on. The outline is perfect and the rail dead square, 90deg to bottom. You have to start there or it will all be wonky. You can see here the curves are right:






Then after that - shaping in the deck curve:
I marked it with rail bands that follow the outline and the first cut is a bevel where I wrote #1 for u. Its basically a 45deg bevel, then after that is cut you mark a line halfway along that bevel you just made.
The next cut is where #2 is (well an N after seabreeze rotated the damn pic...) and it ends halfway point on cut #1.



These steps need to be right and lines to follow, if only for symmetry and consistent thickness.

Sorry to say but to CNC it too big then try and shape down was a mistake. But you should be able to get an outline printed full size from the file you have? That will help.

As to shaping that outline - long tools and long strokes, it looks like your chopping at it in small sections with a short block?Use a Surform flat file with long (like 2ft) strokes. Then finish last bit with a speedfile (spraypainters bodywork tool, its a long sanding block with handles) with 120g.
There are other shaping tools that are better but I'm suggesting what works for first time without breaking the bank and you can get at normal hardware and auto shops

forceten, looks like you're measuring and marking on the blank. Much better to place template on blank and scribe around it.

^agreed. and that will be messy. Needs a bit of wood to mark around, then flip over and mark other side.

Foreceten, have a look for some how to shape a surfboard videos, it makes more sense watching than trying to explain.

and here is that same board finished (well bit rough needs final fine sand before deck gets bagged on

Nice one Mark, that side light throws up any imperfections, and I don't see one.

Thanks so much to both.i will try to follow. I see the edge markings will be of benefit.
I see my errors .

Got the sides boxed again, going to,lay out boxed rails.

Select to expand quote

R1DER said..
I have almost every thing sorted in the program vee rails tuck concaves rocker outline. But I can't get the very top of the nose perfect or the tip of the tail when doing squash, square and stubby type rails.
Mark I can email you some finished shapes for you to play with, I have some very similar to what you like
Even though I can shape a board in the program I don't see the point as I don't know anyone in Perth who can cut them. It only makes sense if you were making a lot of the same board, otherwise it's easier to handshape a one of custom.

Mark I sent you an email with a file.