Hello,

New to the windsurfing community and just made a purchase of an old Bic Astro Rock, The nose looks like its had some repairs in the past as the top sheet and seem to be separating, and you can peel apart to see the foam inside.

I want to give the board another nose job to prevent water from getting in, however I'm unsure what type of plastic the top coat is made of and I want to pick an epoxy that will give the best seal.

Does anyone have experience with repairing the Old Bic Astro Rock??

No sorry, the board brings back great memories.

You should be able to use west system epoxy. I repaired an Alegro speed board of the same vintage with no issues

I believe they are plastic coated which makes it a real prick to repair . I think its a polyethylene and nothing likes to stick to that . Inside that it should be glass and epoxy. Perhaps repairing from the inside and clamping the nose together .
Pics ?

Plastic/ceramic mix

Thanks for the input guys, I got some photos if any of this helps. Looks like there was an attempt to seal the crack in the past. Thanks in advance for any help.

Stiff filler, board flex, and many years....

I never thought I'd recommend anything other than a proper repair hahahaha butttt.....

Its hard to get anything to stick to those ASA skins and ceramic incorporated in it also.
Given the difficulty of performing a good epoxy repair on those, and the board is so old its not worth anything (sorry...) I say seal it up with Sikaflex and some light clamping. It will hold.

The old/ancient polyethylene seems to "dry out" in it's old age making it less resistant to good adhesion. I've had success with West System epoxy resin glue on a series one Wally with a split around the fin.
Gouge as any loose material out, prize the split open, thoroughly force the epoxy glue into all the void with a thin implement. Then clamp it. The adhesive will ooze out. Get it off as it comes out leaving a small amount around the fracture/split. When the glue starts to go off it will thicken. Get a surgical glove with a little detergent on a finger tip and smooth/mould the exposed glue in the repair leve /flush with the sides of the crack. I've found the glue will lift if spread on the surface.
The Polyeurthane works but like anything it fails in the end. Getting it off to redo is difficult. Whereas getting the epoxy glue off is easier once it needs a redo. My 20c worth. Hope it helps.