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Haggar said...
I think might give the Chinook base a go but I want to keep my NP MXT RDM extensions, these are just great with high quality pulleys. Can I just use the UXT adaptor so it will take the Chinook / Euro pin is it that simple ?

Yep!

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andysails said...

Haggar said...
I think might give the Chinook base a go but I want to keep my NP MXT RDM extensions, these are just great with high quality pulleys. Can I just use the UXT adaptor so it will take the Chinook / Euro pin is it that simple ?

Yep!

Thanks Andy

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seanhogan said..

Mastbender said..

I'm a dedicated fan of a two bolt base going into the mast box. A single bolt can break the box in big surf, seen it too many times.

Same for me but for a different reason (don't ride in surf) : I carry a replacement unit in my hydratation backpack, no more swimming if the tendon breaks !!






Plus the base is always in the correct position (I have a base on each board)

Have you ever tried to replace that on the water?
I think you'll find it extremely difficult.

Not yet, but still better than holding on to your gear and hoping/praying someone sees you

Some really great discussion guys. I've purchased a Chinook tendon. That's what I currently use and it's still looking solid after 2 years, so that's what I'm going for as a replacement. Cheers for the feedback and input.

@ Sean
Well you might find yourself doing just that.
The last time this was discussed there was a strong opinion that you may well have to take the extension out of the mast so you can swap the uni and fix it to the extension. Then you would have enough leverage to bend the extension sideways to pull the rig on. Not impossible but difficult.
If you can figure out a simpler way to do it that would be helpful because it looks like a good idea.
Maybe you could put the uni in and bend it down with a piece of downhaul line?

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NotWal said..
@ Sean
Well you might find yourself doing just that.
The last time this was discussed there was a strong opinion that you may well have to take the extension out of the mast so you can swap the uni and fix it to the extension. Then you would have enough leverage to bend the extension sideways to pull the rig on. Not impossible but difficult.
If you can figure out a simpler way to do it that would be helpful because it looks like a good idea.
Maybe you could put the uni in and bend it down with a piece of downhaul line?

Yes, I think it would be very difficult with the tendon uni as they are so stiff. It is still difficult with the Bodge uni but not impossible. I have done it a couple of times. Sometimes it's easier to take the uni from the 2 bolt board base, fit it to the extension, and then reattach to the board.

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DavMen said..

forceten said..

DavMen said..
I use these too - the double bolt base with and the boge uni with the base tool.
Besides it obviously not being able to use the full track - as stated by another poster.
I have found that the boge is not replacable and you will need to change the whole unit as shown below and that can be a bit pricey if you do it yearly.
Still prefer them them though and have sailed a few home just on the webbing when the boge has failed.

You can purchase the rubber joint $25
http://www.windance.com/Windsurf-Windsurf-Parts-Chinook-Rubber-Universal-Joint-2415/

a kit with more stuff for $31.
they like the other universals require some tools To dismantle, the entire uniT OTOH is maybe $75.

As far as my experience goes the tool (socket) end is mouded into the boge.

I'd be quite happy to be proved wrong, but I havn't seen (including your link) a repalecment as yet.

Hi DavMen,

I jut removed the bottom bolt out of the chinook Boge last night, it did not want to come out easily (I put the old Boge into a vice & had to clamp it way beyond what I would have thought, deforming the boge, so that I could break the thread lock/glue holding the thread in).

From memory it was a 6mm 1/4 inch drive socket that I used with a tube over the handle (30 cm long) to increase the fulcrum/leaver action, I was actually beginning to wonder if I was going to break the 1/4 drive breaker bar when the thread lock gave & I undid the parts.

Given that I replaced 2 tendons in about 30 minuites (90 % of the time was on cutting slots into stripped phillips head screws on one to remove the pins) & spent over half an hour with the one boge joint I will be sticking with tendons from here on, as Mark _australia has said a very easy job with the hex socket screws.

Geoff