Watch the foot placement. Play at 1/4 speed. Freeze it at 8 seconds.

Select to expand quote

VCRWoody said..

Watch the foot placement. Play at 1/4 speed. Freeze it at 8 seconds.

Keep in mind there's not one way to do it. As an example: If you're riding wings with a bigger span or flatter outline you need to place your feet closer to the rail to keep carving through the turn, and the position of your foot fore/ aft really is totally dependent on how much you lean forward or bend through the knees aswell. That is without taking other things into account like weight, height, boardlength, sailsize, sail draft position, downhaul etc.etc.etc.

Most gains in the Jibe won't be found in exact foot placements, but by chopping the jibe up in bits and practicing parts seperately. To enhance mustle memory by repetition. Trying the entire jibe at once will not get you nearly close to the amount of practice you would get by chopping the jibe into more managable bits which will not cause you to crash every time.

Example exercises would for example be carving through the turn and back, without changing the feet but managing the height, or sailing in a straight line and trying to move your backfoot and even frontfoot without changing the height. Sailing on one leg (trying for periods of time to lift your front foot) can also be a very good exercise for the foot change. Lightfootedness is key, especially if you come out of the jibe with a little too less speed a "heavy" foot will pretty much always cause your wing to lose grip and sink.

Select to expand quote

WhiteofHeart said..
Keep in mind there's not one way to do it. As an example: If you're riding wings with a bigger span or flatter outline you need to place your feet closer to the rail to keep carving through the turn, and the position of your foot fore/ aft really is totally dependent on how much you lean forward or bend through the knees aswell. That is without taking other things into account like weight, height, boardlength, sailsize, sail draft position, downhaul etc.etc.etc.

Question...

Yesterday I had a pretty good light wind session on my levitator 150 and infinity 99 with a 5.7m. It was probably blowing 12-17mph.

Anyways all was good, but my gybes were generally pretty bad compared to my gybes with smaller wing and board (115/76).

2 consistent problems seemed to happen

1) losing balance during the sail flip. The sail needed quite a push to get it to rotate. whereas normally at with my 115/76 combo the sail is light and flips easy even when using my 5.7 when on the 76. Maybe this is how guys always gybe when going slow on big slalom gear?

2) the board would sometimes turn back up wind and exit the gybe. I had my back foot near the center line during the gybe. It sounds like you suggest keeping your foot closer to the rail for bigger wings. Is that my prob?

Also is it likely that I will need a different gybe technique for big wing, low wind foiling. Currently I use a carve gybe style where the sail is flipped first and the feet switch towards the end of the gybe.

Board width/size is also a variable that will determine foot placement.

#1 I have the same problem fin sailing; I now know why.
#2 He saying get in the frontstrap right away for stability.

Haven't been on the water to try this ( 1 month away) but it makes sense to me.

good to learn different types of jibes: step, carve, duck, etc... they different scenarios for sail handling and feet and stance switching come in handy when you might need to improvise or when riding swell downwind.

I posted a video last year of three different jibes to illustrated the different timing, footwork, hand work, etc...

YMMV. Equipment used: Wizard 125, Infinity 76 in B w/ long mast, 4.0 Freestyle sail set almost all the way back in the mast track on mild wind day (would have needed 7.5+ to windsurf probably).

Select to expand quote

thedoor said..

WhiteofHeart said..
Keep in mind there's not one way to do it. As an example: If you're riding wings with a bigger span or flatter outline you need to place your feet closer to the rail to keep carving through the turn, and the position of your foot fore/ aft really is totally dependent on how much you lean forward or bend through the knees aswell. That is without taking other things into account like weight, height, boardlength, sailsize, sail draft position, downhaul etc.etc.etc.

Question...

Yesterday I had a pretty good light wind session on my levitator 150 and infinity 99 with a 5.7m. It was probably blowing 12-17mph.

Anyways all was good, but my gybes were generally pretty bad compared to my gybes with smaller wing and board (115/76).

2 consistent problems seemed to happen

1) losing balance during the sail flip. The sail needed quite a push to get it to rotate. whereas normally at with my 115/76 combo the sail is light and flips easy even when using my 5.7 when on the 76. Maybe this is how guys always gybe when going slow on big slalom gear?

2) the board would sometimes turn back up wind and exit the gybe. I had my back foot near the center line during the gybe. It sounds like you suggest keeping your foot closer to the rail for bigger wings. Is that my prob?

Also is it likely that I will need a different gybe technique for big wing, low wind foiling. Currently I use a carve gybe style where the sail is flipped first and the feet switch towards the end of the gybe.

1) When you are going fast relative to the wind speed the apparent wind is often from straight ahead when you are straight down wind (true wind). This makes it harder to make the sail flip. Yes some times you need to push the boom around as you keep turning to get it around particularly if you turn fast. I try and get the sail eased to 90 degrees or more by the time I am pointed straight down wind.

2) When you get turned back towards the wind it is often because you are not easing the boom out soon enough. Moving the back foot outboard will help turn the board. Steadily Increase your foot preasure on the inside of the turn all the way to the end.
Another way to think about it is that back hand preasure before the sail flip slows the rate of turn. So you have to ease off the throttle to get the board to turn. Learning how much and when to ease in relation to the rate of turn is the key to making the transtion.

The bigger wing will be tougher to turn.

Keep foiling often and keep going for the gybes, it takes time, patience and persitance. The effort will be worth it! Best of luck!

Select to expand quote

sunsetsailboards said..
good to learn different types of jibes: step, carve, duck, etc... they different scenarios for sail handling and feet and stance switching come in handy when you might need to improvise or when riding swell downwind.

I posted a video last year of three different jibes to illustrated the different timing, footwork, hand work, etc...

YMMV. Equipment used: Wizard 125, Infinity 76 in B w/ long mast, 4.0 Freestyle sail set almost all the way back in the mast track on mild wind day (would have needed 7.5+ to windsurf probably).

Good point. I think had so much success with the carve gybe relative to the step gybe, I have not tried the step gybe in probably a year.

Select to expand quote

utcminusfour said..
1) When you are going fast relative to the wind speed the apparent wind is often from straight ahead when you are straight down wind (true wind). This makes it harder to make the sail flip. Yes some times you need to push the boom around as you keep turning to get it around particularly if you turn fast. I try and get the sail eased to 90 degrees or more by the time I am pointed straight down wind.

2) When you get turned back towards the wind it is often because you are not easing the boom out soon enough. Moving the back foot outboard will help turn the board. Steadily Increase your foot preasure on the inside of the turn all the way to the end.
Another way to think about it is that back hand preasure before the sail flip slows the rate of turn. So you have to ease off the throttle to get the board to turn. Learning how much and when to ease in relation to the rate of turn is the key to making the transtion.

The bigger wing will be tougher to turn.

Keep foiling often and keep going for the gybes, it takes time, patience and persitance. The effort will be worth it! Best of luck!

Regarding #1 the faster I am going the easier it is to flip the sail especially if I over sheet going into the gybe, its only at very slow speed that the sail flip is an issue.

#2 when you say outboard with the back foot, do you mean across the centre line towards the leeward rail?

Just realized the word gybe and jibe have 2 different ways of spelling for the same meaning. Jibe is spelled this way in the United States and gybe spelled this way is the British way. Now how do the Ausies spell their version of the word?

Gybe

Select to expand quote

MagicRide said..
Just realized the word gybe and jibe have 2 different ways of spelling for the same meaning. Jibe is spelled this way in the United States and gybe spelled this way is the British way. Now how do the Ausies spell their version of the word?

I bet you spell jail with a 'j' and and 'i' too.

Select to expand quote

VCRWoody said..

I made one carve foiling gybe on the levitator/i99 thanks to the sail flip tip in the video above starting around 5min.

I tried a couple of step gybes and that **** is pretty difficult

Select to expand quote

thedoor said..

utcminusfour said..
1) When you are going fast relative to the wind speed the apparent wind is often from straight ahead when you are straight down wind (true wind). This makes it harder to make the sail flip. Yes some times you need to push the boom around as you keep turning to get it around particularly if you turn fast. I try and get the sail eased to 90 degrees or more by the time I am pointed straight down wind.

2) When you get turned back towards the wind it is often because you are not easing the boom out soon enough. Moving the back foot outboard will help turn the board. Steadily Increase your foot preasure on the inside of the turn all the way to the end.
Another way to think about it is that back hand preasure before the sail flip slows the rate of turn. So you have to ease off the throttle to get the board to turn. Learning how much and when to ease in relation to the rate of turn is the key to making the transtion.

The bigger wing will be tougher to turn.

Keep foiling often and keep going for the gybes, it takes time, patience and persitance. The effort will be worth it! Best of luck!

Regarding #1 the faster I am going the easier it is to flip the sail especially if I over sheet going into the gybe, its only at very slow speed that the sail flip is an issue.

#2 when you say outboard with the back foot, do you mean across the centre line towards the leeward rail?

Okay first take everything I saw with a grain of salt. I can make most of my foiling gybes but I am no expert. Describing things to others helps me learn.
Reagrding # 1
I see two different ways approach the sail handling in foiling gybe. Both styles do two important things; they shut off or reduce the sail power that is preventing the board from turning and they prevent the sail from getting back winded which will really stop the turn.

A) Ease and Open the boom early
See Sam Ross vid:
I think this style is more forgiving to beginners and it helped me learn. Sailing from a broad reach to a broad reach makes a short and easy transition. You can still carve hard and fast with this approach you just have to let go of the back hand early and completely so you coast through the turn while carving hard. I finding that this style works better with more wind.

B) Over sheet and throw
See Phill Caneri's vid:
Phil sails into the turn on a fast reach he over sheets then he CHUCKS (throws) the sail forward to flip. He switches feet after flip sailing out on a reach. This big but hard and fast turn limits the time spent without sail power which is probably good in light air.

Try and track the difference between your speed and the speed of the true wind. If you get wound up to 22 knots and start your gybe in a lull of 6 knots the apparent wind will be from straight ahead and over sheet and throw is probably the call. This is a just an example, don't gybe in lulls you want to gybe in the gusts until it is nuking.I

f you are making 22 knots in a 25 knot breeze the apparent wind is much further aft and the sail flips itself. Ease and open will work here and so will over sheeting probably without the need to throw.

Both styles have their time and place.

Regarding # 2 Yes by outboard I mean across the centre line towards the leeward rail. You get more leverage to turn the board.

I hope this helps!

Select to expand quote

utcminusfour said..

thedoor said..

WhiteofHeart said..
Keep in mind there's not one way to do it. As an example: If you're riding wings with a bigger span or flatter outline you need to place your feet closer to the rail to keep carving through the turn, and the position of your foot fore/ aft really is totally dependent on how much you lean forward or bend through the knees aswell. That is without taking other things into account like weight, height, boardlength, sailsize, sail draft position, downhaul etc.etc.etc.

Question...

Yesterday I had a pretty good light wind session on my levitator 150 and infinity 99 with a 5.7m. It was probably blowing 12-17mph.

Anyways all was good, but my gybes were generally pretty bad compared to my gybes with smaller wing and board (115/76).

2 consistent problems seemed to happen

1) losing balance during the sail flip. The sail needed quite a push to get it to rotate. whereas normally at with my 115/76 combo the sail is light and flips easy even when using my 5.7 when on the 76. Maybe this is how guys always gybe when going slow on big slalom gear?

2) the board would sometimes turn back up wind and exit the gybe. I had my back foot near the center line during the gybe. It sounds like you suggest keeping your foot closer to the rail for bigger wings. Is that my prob?

Also is it likely that I will need a different gybe technique for big wing, low wind foiling. Currently I use a carve gybe style where the sail is flipped first and the feet switch towards the end of the gybe.

1) When you are going fast relative to the wind speed the apparent wind is often from straight ahead when you are straight down wind (true wind). This makes it harder to make the sail flip. Yes some times you need to push the boom around as you keep turning to get it around particularly if you turn fast. I try and get the sail eased to 90 degrees or more by the time I am pointed straight down wind.

2) When you get turned back towards the wind it is often because you are not easing the boom out soon enough. Moving the back foot outboard will help turn the board. Steadily Increase your foot preasure on the inside of the turn all the way to the end.
Another way to think about it is that back hand preasure before the sail flip slows the rate of turn. So you have to ease off the throttle to get the board to turn. Learning how much and when to ease in relation to the rate of turn is the key to making the transtion.

The bigger wing will be tougher to turn.

Keep foiling often and keep going for the gybes, it takes time, patience and persitance. The effort will be worth it! Best of luck!

Agree 100%!

Regarding foot position and board turning back the way you came, see also this video:



But let me be clear, I've found the I76 I tried to be way more manouvrable (compared my reference mostly way less roll stability than most foils I've tried, too little for my liking, but I understand some people like it especially if you're out at sea! One persons "unstable" is the other persons "free and manouvrable"), so its very logical Wyatt advices to carve with the backfoot close to the centerline!

WhiteofHeart, Thanks for the props and I had not seen this vid yet! Wow he has some guns (bicepts)! He also sails by the lee for a bit at the end of his gybe almost delaying the flip. Interesting!

Good find for the Starboard Tips. Playlist of all 10 tips.

www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL4IzN2iehsEuvvIkQ1FCCK7ba5eWFFnWb

Select to expand quote

utcminusfour said..

thedoor said..

utcminusfour said..
1) When you are going fast relative to the wind speed the apparent wind is often from straight ahead when you are straight down wind (true wind). This makes it harder to make the sail flip. Yes some times you need to push the boom around as you keep turning to get it around particularly if you turn fast. I try and get the sail eased to 90 degrees or more by the time I am pointed straight down wind.

2) When you get turned back towards the wind it is often because you are not easing the boom out soon enough. Moving the back foot outboard will help turn the board. Steadily Increase your foot preasure on the inside of the turn all the way to the end.
Another way to think about it is that back hand preasure before the sail flip slows the rate of turn. So you have to ease off the throttle to get the board to turn. Learning how much and when to ease in relation to the rate of turn is the key to making the transtion.

The bigger wing will be tougher to turn.

Keep foiling often and keep going for the gybes, it takes time, patience and persitance. The effort will be worth it! Best of luck!

Regarding #1 the faster I am going the easier it is to flip the sail especially if I over sheet going into the gybe, its only at very slow speed that the sail flip is an issue.

#2 when you say outboard with the back foot, do you mean across the centre line towards the leeward rail?

Okay first take everything I saw with a grain of salt. I can make most of my foiling gybes but I am no expert. Describing things to others helps me learn.
Reagrding # 1
I see two different ways approach the sail handling in foiling gybe. Both styles do two important things; they shut off or reduce the sail power that is preventing the board from turning and they prevent the sail from getting back winded which will really stop the turn.

A) Ease and Open the boom early
See Sam Ross vid:

I think this style is more forgiving to beginners and it helped me learn. Sailing from a broad reach to a broad reach makes a short and easy transition. You can still carve hard and fast with this approach you just have to let go of the back hand early and completely so you coast through the turn while carving hard. I finding that this style works better with more wind.

B) Over sheet and throw
See Phill Caneri's vid:

Phil sails into the turn on a fast reach he over sheets then he CHUCKS (throws) the sail forward to flip. He switches feet after flip sailing out on a reach. This big but hard and fast turn limits the time spent without sail power which is probably good in light air.

Try and track the difference between your speed and the speed of the true wind. If you get wound up to 22 knots and start your gybe in a lull of 6 knots the apparent wind will be from straight ahead and over sheet and throw is probably the call. This is a just an example, don't gybe in lulls you want to gybe in the gusts until it is nuking.I

f you are making 22 knots in a 25 knot breeze the apparent wind is much further aft and the sail flips itself. Ease and open will work here and so will over sheeting probably without the need to throw.

Both styles have their time and place.

Regarding # 2 Yes by outboard I mean across the centre line towards the leeward rail. You get more leverage to turn the board.

I hope this helps!

I am definately having good success with the phil caneri method, but I need to have some pretty good speed for it to work. I will give the sam ross early opening a try today in lighter air

Select to expand quote

WhiteofHeart said..

utcminusfour said..

thedoor said..

WhiteofHeart said..
Keep in mind there's not one way to do it. As an example: If you're riding wings with a bigger span or flatter outline you need to place your feet closer to the rail to keep carving through the turn, and the position of your foot fore/ aft really is totally dependent on how much you lean forward or bend through the knees aswell. That is without taking other things into account like weight, height, boardlength, sailsize, sail draft position, downhaul etc.etc.etc.

Question...

Yesterday I had a pretty good light wind session on my levitator 150 and infinity 99 with a 5.7m. It was probably blowing 12-17mph.

Anyways all was good, but my gybes were generally pretty bad compared to my gybes with smaller wing and board (115/76).

2 consistent problems seemed to happen

1) losing balance during the sail flip. The sail needed quite a push to get it to rotate. whereas normally at with my 115/76 combo the sail is light and flips easy even when using my 5.7 when on the 76. Maybe this is how guys always gybe when going slow on big slalom gear?

2) the board would sometimes turn back up wind and exit the gybe. I had my back foot near the center line during the gybe. It sounds like you suggest keeping your foot closer to the rail for bigger wings. Is that my prob?

Also is it likely that I will need a different gybe technique for big wing, low wind foiling. Currently I use a carve gybe style where the sail is flipped first and the feet switch towards the end of the gybe.

1) When you are going fast relative to the wind speed the apparent wind is often from straight ahead when you are straight down wind (true wind). This makes it harder to make the sail flip. Yes some times you need to push the boom around as you keep turning to get it around particularly if you turn fast. I try and get the sail eased to 90 degrees or more by the time I am pointed straight down wind.

2) When you get turned back towards the wind it is often because you are not easing the boom out soon enough. Moving the back foot outboard will help turn the board. Steadily Increase your foot preasure on the inside of the turn all the way to the end.
Another way to think about it is that back hand preasure before the sail flip slows the rate of turn. So you have to ease off the throttle to get the board to turn. Learning how much and when to ease in relation to the rate of turn is the key to making the transtion.

The bigger wing will be tougher to turn.

Keep foiling often and keep going for the gybes, it takes time, patience and persitance. The effort will be worth it! Best of luck!

Agree 100%!

Regarding foot position and board turning back the way you came, see also this video:

But let me be clear, I've found the I76 I tried to be way more manouvrable (compared my reference mostly way less roll stability than most foils I've tried, too little for my liking, but I understand some people like it especially if you're out at sea! One persons "unstable" is the other persons "free and manouvrable"), so its very logical Wyatt advices to carve with the backfoot close to the centerline!

Thanks WOH, I definitely have not been doing that

I was feeling bad about not always jamming my new front foot into the strap and then I saw Bruno Martini in this video (3:08)

www.facebook.com/futureflyboards/videos/858364201283824/

btw, new Pryde colors?