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Mastbender said..
The foilers can't ride the waves all the way inside, where often the best sections of the waves are, or on shallow reef breaks, so mother nature seems to be on the side of the dedicated wave riders, w/o foils. So there is that.
Another imagined idea turned into an opinion. Beach breaks usually pitch up and break on the outside of the bar. You carve your turn and head before the wave pitches and away you go. Banging into sand is not really an issue, especially at low speed.
It can be a trap because you come in to the beach intending to end. Carve a turn and find yourself going out for another run.