Sorry if this question has been posed previously. I'm new to surfing and gave been gping about once every 2 to 3 weeks. I'm 44yrs old and weigh 85kg. Im trying to ride an 8' x 23" x 3". I can catch white no probs and get to my feet quick.
Where I am having difficulty is catching green waves. I mainly fall off the back of the wave.
Any advice for an old kook would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Sam
Ps saw a shark at narrawallee this morning. It was about 20m away. My paddling power seem to improve instantly!

Take a couple more paddles before you try getting up. Start paddling a bit earlier but not so early they overtake you and land on you.

Yes - as Razz says, you need to match your paddling speed to the speed of the wave. Angle your board towards the way you want to trim (not straight in to shore), and try and get up at the top of the wave before it starts to break - this will give you more time to set your line and adjust your weight.

Keep going - it will click sooner or later.

Thanks gents,appreciate it.

Stay low and keep your knees bent when you pop up – you see quite a few newbies popping up with gusto, leaping to their feet and standing bolt upright. This action throws your centre of gravity back, and may well be a factor in falling off the back of green waves. There’s really only one thing that absolutely guarantees to improve your surfing, and that’s hours spent in the water. Get out there!

I thought this was going to be a bamboo (or similar) board thread

Select to expand quote

Sambo88808 said..
I'm new to surfing and gave been gping about once every 2 to 3 weeks.

You need to try to go 2 to 3 times a week instead.

Select to expand quote

Sambo88808 said..I'm 44yrs old ...

You're too old and going to struggle to learn.

Good luck.

Two things that might help.

Remember your using gravity to surf its not just the wave pushing you, the wave lifts you and you slide back down the face due to gravity.
With that in mind you need to make sure that the wave is actually steep enough that you will actually slide down the face.

So.. sit a bit further in, you will cop a few on the head but you will probably catch more.

And as others have said paddle for them early and HARD, you will show other surfers that the wave is yours and you will be far more likely to make the take off. if its a steep take off your far better off being in the middle of the wave than caught at the top.

Select to expand quote

Legion said..

Sambo88808 said..
I'm new to surfing and gave been gping about once every 2 to 3 weeks.

You need to try to go 2 to 3 times a week instead.

Sambo88808 said..I'm 44yrs old ...

You're too old and going to struggle to learn.

Good luck.

What a typical comment from Lord Legion

You're such a positive fella its almost embarrassing

<shrug/>

It's the truth.

Don't need to always be a yes man.

If OP wants to make an improvement (at anything), do it more often. If (s)he wants to be really good, start as a kid. Others have said on other forums (and it's true) that kids get smashed all the time and don't care, they go out in packs and peer pressure each other into waves they shouldn't, they have raging testosterone, they have no fear, they go every day even when it sucks, etc. Adults don't like these things, there's ego and things at play and time constraints and they're more conservative.

Here's a tip OP - go bodysurfing. Can you catch "green waves" bodysurfing? I mean proper treading water/swimming bodysurfing, not standing on a sandbank and pushing off. Think about what you need to do to do so.

Harsh, but can't argue with the truth.^^^

Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm not looking to be a gun surfer and perhaps I should've posted on the longboarders page. Im just looking to be able to ride small waves.
Just a couple basic turns to keep me in right part of the waves on my chunky 8' board.
Im not interested in surfing breaks where you need to have started as a young surfer.

Select to expand quote

Legion said..

Here's a tip OP - go bodysurfing. Can you catch "green waves" bodysurfing? I mean proper treading water/swimming bodysurfing, not standing on a sandbank and pushing off. Think about what you need to do to do so.

Great advice this. Reading the wave is one of the biggest hurdles that beginners have to overcome. When to paddle, when to put the motor down, why you should have been 2m further across etc These things are a struggle for some and easy for others. Its all about doing time in the water though.

Great advice here....you are not too old, I learned at 56. Sure it took me a year before I even got up. Surfing is the most difficult sport to learn before you get your first ride....but the buzz is immense. It's all about effort mate.