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soleman said...jbshack said...Sham1984 said...PM sent Dave!
Even though all the locals and regulars were super chill everywhere I went. I suspect they'd track me down if I spilled details.
I got my first barrel (that I actually came out the other side of) felt so good! Took me about 5 waves before i had the right line/speed/guts to just hold tight and let the wave do its thing. Couldn't wipe the smile off my face for days!! Even writing this is bringing back the stoke!

But of coarse the photos my wife took came out like Bigfoot encounters. So out of focus!!


I got some good photos though so il post some when I'm back in Melbourne
Women

Would love to see a few shots..
Get up there when you can JB, heaps better than photos. you'll love it.
A pure surfing holiday. Now that would be amazing

but with my fam and wifey she likes comfort, a few more years and kids will be big enough and that'll be my time for surf trips.
To be far she spent so much time on the beach when dating i think i'm now paying for those days

Oh and Wavewidow i once spent an entire surf session with wife on beach taking shots. (that cost me big time) Only to find out she had taken another guys every wave after she though he was me

But solemen i do draw solace from other peoples trips..