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Your most memorable barrel

Created by Surfstarved Surfstarved  > 9 months ago, 9 Oct 2012
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Surfstarved
Surfstarved

78 posts

9 Oct 2012 7:31pm
I keep forgetting about one of the best things about surfing: the barrel. Every now and then I will pull into one and the feeling of when it curls over you and spits you out is bloody brilliant.

One of my best was a few months back at a beach out of town (visiting family) and had the beach all to myself one morning. Probably the best wave I have caught to this day; just the feeling you get once you are locked in as the air gushes around with the foam ball behind you. Still working on the over head high barrel staring at the ceiling with hands dropped to the side though

What about you guys? Beats a long wall any day!
raynef2005
raynef2005

QLD

160 posts

10 Oct 2012 12:06am
I've had the best waves of my life this year.

Kirra sometime in May, about 5 guys out. Late afternoon, 4-5 foot and offshore. The rest of the pack is about 100m down the lineup. I paddle into a bomb set, nice easy takeoff, bottom turn, then the thing starts to turn into a drainpipe. I set the line, put the arm in and just freeze. Section after section throws over my head, with some deep, foamball bits. Felt like forever. I ride past the pack, still in the barrel, and it starts to race off a bit. I make it through the last pinch section and pull out onto the shoulder. The crew looks back in disbelief. They all put their arms in the air and let out a big hoot!

That was the best wave of my life. I paddled back to the beach after that, figuring I wasn't going to top it. I was beaming the whole way back to the car, 1.5 km up the point.

I still have wet dreams about it.
doggie
doggie

WA

15849 posts

11 Oct 2012 12:53pm
Mine was in 09 at Burger World in the Mentawis.

All the other crew were sitting way out the back and it was a bit manic so I paddled to the inside where a nice right was barrelling to almost dry reef.

I had been sitting there for about 10 mins waiting when our guide paddled over to see what I was doing, I was miles from anyone.

Just as he got to me a real nice wedge came towards me, looked to be over head. I paddled into it and took off, and back doored the tube. It would have to be the cleanest barrel I have ever been in and I was a bit mesmorized and was lucky to get out as it pinched at the end, luck not skill

Our guide paddled back to the pack to tell them what I was doing and a couple came over not before I had a couple more, but the first one was the biggest and best.

I was glad that he saw it
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