I went for a grovel today at Perth's favourite beachie. I hit the carpark and then walked at least 100m to get away from the crowd. There were a few people. I sat wide. After a while they left and I was alone. After another while one guy drifted up and we split the waves for a while. There are obviously no banks, so it was just a little rip that occasionally broke early enough to allow a turn vs. the closeouts along most of the beach.
Then a rare wave came that I managed an almost barrel and a dropwallet as the kids call them these days (although I blew the recovery). Then strangely enough another that give me a good down the line wall and a few turns. As soon as I paddled back out, three sheep paddled down from a good 100m away. And then, a whole bunch decided that of the whole beach, they all had to sit on top of me. Eight other people. Then a couple more arrived. And then, worst of all, a couple of SUPs paddled up the beach, attracted by the crowd. I've noticed they've really taken off this year, with the tiny swells. But it baffles me why they'd have to come and stand right amongst a pack of shortboarders and a booger.
Same two guys I've "experienced" before. They ride boards with red rails, are relatively young as far as SUPs go, but are of typical SUP (lack of) ability level. The other time they had no business being out, with one guy getting stuck right in the middle of the line of the bank I was sitting on and spending 10 minutes completely spoiling the inside section of that wave. Literally 10 minutes. He couldn't paddle back out through the 2'ers and just kept ditching his board and swimming under waves with his paddle, with a 20' radius of destruction as his aircraft carrier and leash stretched out in the whitewater.
This time they were doing the same, falling off while paddling and getting caught inside the 6" waves and flailing around for a while. **** off.
In the end I caught a wave in on my stomach in disgust. Apart from the two waves the whole session sucked, but at least I was on my own. But shame on all the sheep and kooks who just had to share the bank with me. Yeah, I know half of your faces. Tourists, kooks on SUPs and the two groms with their dad paddling for everything. I was hoping a nice wave would come through so I could drop in on someone but no such luck. I would've had no problem dropping in on any one of those snakes. I sat quietly, holding my position, while they all drifted around me on both sides. But the waves sucked and nothing worthwhile came.
I went out yesterday on the same bank and there was one old crippo when I paddled out. I was fully mindful he was there first so I sat wide the whole time until he went in. I could've paddled inside him, could've pressured him. But why? He was there first, he knew what he was doing. He got a few nice waves. Then he left them to me and went in.
Today that bank was the most crowded of all I could see when I left. And those stupid SUPs ... I was hoping one would do something stupid like hit someone so I could snap out their fin and tell them how stupid they are.
Bah. Bring on next week's weather. Hopefully stir things up so I can venture further away from the dumbarses in search of uncrowded banks.
Spot on, Legion. Every time I paddle out, it's like I turn on the magnet and the crowds gather around. I've been experiencing it for years... and there's no growing to accept it.
I wonder if I've ever done it to you, or vice versa. Not that I've ever intentionally gate crashed a bank
I know where your coming from mate, but sit back, relax and have a beer.
If thats the worst thing that happened to you today then its not such a bad day in the grand scheme of things.
You know Perths going to be crowded, its not much fun, its full of kooks and wannabe's.
At the moment I would give my left nut just to get in the water and surf, instead I have to work a job I dislike, in a country I dislike even more. Cést la vie
Count the blessings instead of the crap
Yep the old cripple does know what he's doing, former state champion and has mixed it up with the best in the world. Still goes pretty damn well regardless of his 63 years.
please don't encourage them Hamsta and you'd have to agree Mick that the cripple's are the most respectful unconventional surfer in the lineup
BTW Legion if you ever want to surf an uncrowded wave with a crew that actually shares and understands let me know, I think you'd fit right in
It wasn't me by the way.
I can only hope to be surfing that well in another 23 yrs.
He's a hell of a winemaker too, took out a swag of trophies at last years Qantas show, one of the toughest in the land.
I'm guessing it was this bloke Legion?
Yeah, that was him. He has a friendly face. Not an ugly angry one like mine. I gave him his space but was tempted to have a chat, as I sometimes do if there's only one or two in the water. He only stayed about half an hour that I was there though.
Bakesy, that's the kind of place I could make a real sea-hunt of myself. I'd love to surf it, but I probably wouldn't fit in. Plus the crew would get upset if you brought a stranger. But if you're serious and I have time sometime I'll drop you a message.
yep no worries Legion I owe you a favour as I used your posts from last year to help with this year's English project and I think you can keep a secret sea hunt, that's a classic! Had a dude surf it with three of us during the school hols, seemed to bring a snakey attitude with him, subtle hints about who's turn it was didn't work. So I explained to him that his last wave would be just that as we would sit deeper and either side of him, didn't get the hint but paddled in about five minutes later minus two fins
only when the kneelo has driven the "competition" to the line up tho!! otherwise your just boogie boarders with more length and doin a drop knee
Hang in there Legion, at least you're sounding more focussed on the waves than last week. Maybe you're nearly ready again to head out for some of this but you might have to invest in a camo wetsuit too!
Legion, that sounds like every session ever to be had at Trigg.
Nothing worse than sitting it out, doing the right thing and finding your own spot to have it ruined by the insta-crowd.
Bring on the stormy swells that keep the kooks out of the water.
Hopefully my local breaks again and I can pull priority out there again.
A couple of months ago, similar sized swell (i.e. shin high), a fast little rip bank in the middle of the beach. There were people spread out along the beach. I paddled out the rip bank where there was a 40-something guy and his teenage daughter. She was having a blast, laughing and smiling. They were sitting wide. I paddled inside them, because if I sat wider I'd be in the channel. Caught one about 40m deeper and it was fast enough to go past them down the line. On the way back out I told the daughter if she was in position for any to go, feel free to drop in on me. She beamed and the dad said thanks. They were there first and I could've spoiled their session. This way I got to sit deep to use the bank how I wanted, and she got to take any waves she wanted.
Of course, this situation doesn't apply in high pressure crowded sessions.
Maybe you really took off all crab stanced and poo manned it across a half decent wave somehow and they all thought you were an easy target.
Just kidding of course, that's what always happens to me. nice to see you posting again Legion.
I know what you're saying about Perth's favourite beachie Legion. I went for a drive down there yesterday about 3pm and watched the Point for a while. There were about 30 out and every set had 3 or 4 on the lefts and 2 or 3 on the rights. Every wave had people blatantly dropping in. What a joke!
I feel your pain. Sat out off a very average bank (if it could be called that today) and had a couple of waves. After a couple of little rides the crowd found me, and I was surrounded by 8 others. A fella who obviously couldn't surf tried to drop in on me, speared his board towards mine and took out the nose of my board.
I now have a board which is only 3 weeks old with the top 5 inches of the nose snapped off.....happy days
Good points Hamsta, funny thing is I've never surfed with them down here, seen them at popular spots and you're probably spot on, there's a spot I've being eyeing off that almost breaks in 3m+ but I've seen it kind of feather and fade, I'm told that a SUP could ride it, on the right day 500m ride could be possible. Might take some vid of it and post it in the SUP forum, see if that works eh
