wtf whoever's board did that, that bloke needs to sand his fins back a bit. Can't see how any normal board would do that damage unless the person had jumped over the wave, braced themselves standing behind it, the board loading up with the pressure of the wave & springing back into this poor buggers leg unluckily placed in its path. But yeah, often a good idea to sand the back of fins. They're often unessarily sharp....hope he has a speedy recovery.
i was paddling out when it happened...the board flying through the air got my attention first so didn't really see what happened before that...but presumed the board slipped out between the guys legs on a duck dive attempt because it was completely in the air spinning around in front of the wave face, the poor bloke surfing the wave didn't have time to react and crashed into it....
Ahhh that makes more sense, thanks for the insight. Guess he was going right backhand as a goofy & sandwiched the board between his thigh & the wave.
I got smashed in the thigh by an epoxy longboard last October surfing backhand on a head & 1/2 wave. Was whinging about limping for a week, this puts that into perspective geez.
I saw it all from side on. The learner tried to duckdive but half way through the duckdive did an eskimo roll with his board then inexplicably let the board go mid wave. So the board was flying down the face of the wave upside with three fins ready to slash what ever it came into contact with. The wave was head height so there was a fair bit of momentum. Bare in mind it was only a shortboard so why or who taught him to eskimo roll it is baffling. The board was one of those china popouts in an all in one packages - board, leggy, wetty, grip etc.
As it mentions in the article to give the learner credit he did stay on the beach the whole time until the guy was stabilised and transferred up to the ambo. The whole while he had that wtf have I done look on his face.
Why he was surfing the actual point and not down the beach I don't know.