Parts 1 & 2 here
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Surfing/Shortboards/A-short-story/?SearchTerms=storyHypo goes swimmingIt had been 6 months since Jimmy's paddle out. Things had changed for Hypo. He was surfing often now. Jimmy had left him $5000 and with it he bought a van which he was sleeping in when he visited the coast. He managed to surf a few days each week, sleeping in the van. On weekends he usually went back to the western suburbs and stayed with auntie.
He'd given up the smokes too and was drinking much less. His body was fitter and his eyes shone.
The local crew were a pretty good bunch, and some nights he'd go around to Jockeys place for dinner.
The dog stayed with auntie sometimes to keep her company.
There was really only one burr under his saddle.
There was one young local who seemed to have it in for Hypo. Every time he was in the surf and this guy was around he would hassle Hypo mercilessly.
He was about 25, super fit from surfing and labouring and surfed like a demon, he paddled and surfed rings around Hypo. They called him Outthere, as that kind of summed him up. He was probably the best surfer in the area. But had shunned the boardriders, as he just didn't seem to get on with the others. He could have been sponsored too, but he just wasn't interested.
One time a couple of the pro's came to town for some kind of promotion. They went for a surf and Outthere just hammered them, if he wasn't paddling inside them he was dropping in on them. He didn't care who he pissed off. Jockey had tried to reach him, but had no luck.
One day Hypo had had enough, this guy was just making it too hard for him. He waited on the beach and as Outthere was walking back to his car Hypo challenged him.
As Hypo approached him, the youth gave him a filthy look.
“What do you want, loser?” he asked
“How about some respect in the water?” replied Hypo
“For what…… you?” he laughed
Hypo got in his face. He looked bigger up close, but that had never stopped Hypo before.
“Back off old man” he threatened
Hypo stood back and raised his fists.
“I'm gonna kick your arse, boy!” said Hypo
The younger man dropped his board, stood his ground and said nothing.
Hypo lunged forward and stuck out his right hand as the younger man stepped to one side, ducked under Hypo's arm and delivered two quick, deft and punishing blows into Hypo's side. A right elbow followed by a left fist onto the same spot.
Hypo let out a pained cry and crumpled onto the ground gasping for air.
Outthere stood over him;
“Why did you come back here?” he yelled, “No one wants you here!”, “You just bring back bad memories for everyone!”, “Why don't you just **** off back to whatever ****hole you come from!”
Hypo, now curled up on the ground, struggling for breath, was winded.
“****ing wanker”, he called back as he walked away and left Hypo, who by now was struggling to get to his knees, he could hear some laughter from others in the background at his plight.
Outthere walked to his car and drove off.
After a while Hypo was able to get back to his van and lay down. His ribs ached, his dog nuzzled his hand. It was painful to move around.
He lay there for a day or so until Jockey and another friend came knocking.
“Hey up!” Jockey greeted.
“Hey Hyps” said Barney. (Barney was so called because of his resemblance to barney rubble.)
“You been picking fights you can't win again Hypo?”
“You'll never learn will you”? Jockey laughed
Hypo grimaced back.
“So let me get this straight”, started Jockey.
“You picked a fight with a young bloke nearly 40 years younger than you, who stacks bricks all day, trains for football at night and surfs the rest of the time?”
“What were you thinking?”
“Well obviously I wasn't” replied Hypo.
“What was I supposed to do?” “I'd never cop that in the past.”
“My ribs are sore” he laughed, then stopped cause that hurt more.
“What's up with that kid anyway? asked Hypo
“I think I know”, said Jockey
“Well, enlighten me please” replied Hypo
“You know who his mum is?
“No”
“Mary Ferguson” stated Jockey
Mary was Jimmy's off again on again girlfriend for 10 years or so.
“What are you saying jockey?” he asked, not really wanting to know the answer.
“That's Jimmy's son” he said.
Hypo laid his head back; he didn't know what to say.
After some silence Hypo asked;
“So why does he hate me so much”?
Jockey explained, “Jimmy was never going to win father of the year you know”. “And while he treated you well, he wasn't like that with everyone.” “I think he was too hard on the kid”, for whatever reasons.”
“Later I think he tried but, as the boy got older he just rejected Jimmy, too much resentment I suppose.” “Also Jimmy just wasn't around enough.”
“The kid probably blames you,” Jockey continued, “Jimmy spent more time with you than anyone else.”
“Or maybe he's just trying to prove you ain't got it anymore Hyps.” piped in Barney.
“Thanks for your support Barns,” said Hypo.
“Anyway, here's some cream for your ribs”, “you'll have to rub it on yourself though, “as I'm already married “he said, laughing at his own joke.
“I'll check in on you tomorrow, see how you're going.”
“See you Hyps.” said Barney
Hypo nodded.
Hypo was out of the surf for probably a month, he got back into it slowly. The kid seemed to leave him alone now, he had probably gained some satisfaction from putting Hypo on his arse.
Jockey wouldn't stop stirring Hypo about it though, “Why don't you have another go at him Hypo”, he'd laugh, “Maybe you'll get to land a punch this time”, ha-ha.
As time passed Hypo got back to regular surfing, and good thing too as the first of the winter swells was on its way and the predictions were it was going to be a beauty.
“Swells coming Hypo, said Jockey, “reckon you're up for it? he asked.
“I think I'll be OK” replied Hypo.
Fact was he couldn't wait; he hadn't been this fit in 5 years and was keen to get some big slides, as he called them.
“What's the forecast?” he asked
“South east swell with north west to north east winds” replied Jockey
“Size?”
“Five metres at sea”
“Who hoo!” exclaimed Hypo excitedly, “I'll have to dust off my faster board.”
Hypo spent the next week preparing himself.
He felt so alive at the anticipation and excitement of the coming swell. He couldn't sleep some nights at the expectation. He'd watch the calm sea at night imagining the straight lines marching in like some proud army of giants. Just waiting to be ridden. When he rode a big wave he felt like a king, or an artist carving big lines, he never felt like that anywhere else.
The week before the waves were small, so he spent his time paddling offshore the length of the beach, back and forth, people thought he was just some wanker, but he didn't care, it wasn't the first time others had thought that about him. 'They laughed at Einstein you know', Jimmy used to say. Getting his arms used to some work, he didn't want to be soft when the swell arrived. He rode his faster board in the weaker small waves just to get used to the feel of it.
Friday came and the swell had arrived. He was up an hour before dawn and watched the lines of swell marching into the bay fanned by the biting offshore.
Jockey turned up, with his son. They watched as first rays of light gave them a better indication of what to expect.
Jimmy's kid was also was in the background watching from another vantage point.
“So what's the name of this reef dad?” Jockeys son asked.
“Well it has an official name, plus plenty of other names people have given it over the years, what do you call it Hypo?”Jockey asked with a smirk.
Hypo, deadly serious, looking at a wave unleash on the reef.
“I call it the meat grinder”, he said without smiling.
“That's what Jimmy liked to call it”.
“So be careful” he advised the younger man.
“That's OK” Jockeys son replied, I ain't no hero, I'm going to the beachbreak.”
It was big, probably 8' plus on the sets, and hitting the reef square on, which was when it was at its meanest. It would pitch out and had trapped anyone who had surfed it, at least once. Hypo still had a scarred shoulder from a thrashing he received here 20 years ago. He'd seen many a good surfer humbled at this spot. Jimmy probably surfed it better than most, when he was at his peak.
A lot of the guys were choosing the beach break which offered some great rides, lefts and rights, at no physical cost.
It was Hypo, Jockey and Outthere who were the first surfers on the reef in the morning. Others came out throughout the day.
Hypo had spent many hours at this spot with Jimmy, it didn't break often, but today everything had come together to bring good waves. He couldn't help, but think of Jimmy.
Depending on how the particular swell hit the reef decided what type of wave would break. It wasn't mechanical in that way, you had to pick the right wave or you could end up getting hammered or possibly bounced off the reef.
There were two take off zones, the first became an instant barrel then slowed a little before lining up for a longer wall and barrel. So the crowd would position itself in respect to these two areas.
Hypo liked to take off from the first zone. It allowed him to size up the forming wall and place himself just where he wanted to be. Occasionally he copped a few drop ins from some who thought he wouldn't make it. Throughout the day he probably only caught 20 or so waves in about 6 hours of surfing. He probably let as many go past him and onto the waiting pack.
Jockey was careful and took only the safer looking ones from the second zone.
There were some great memorable rides on a day that would be talked about for years.
They rode waves all day, breaking only for rest and food, until late in the day.
Outthere watched Hypo closely as he rode some great waves, he did it in such a calm and unhurried manner. He seemed so at home in what was such a potentially dangerous place. He showed no fear, got barrelled, and yet took few risks.
By the end of the day he felt differently about him. He now remembered the stories his Dad had told him about Hypo.
When Jimmy first met Hypo he was a skinny 12 year old; getting teased by some older kids, Jimmy, the local hot shot at the time, chased his tormentors off. Taking Hypo under his wing, watching him develop into a confident surfer and local surfing identity in his own right. He even gave Hypo his nickname for his high energy and enthusiasm when ever given an opportunity. By the time Hypo was in his twenties, he then became Jimmy's backup, cracking a few heads more than once in Jimmy's defence. They had both made plenty of friends and enemies along the way.
Hypo sat there enjoying the feeling of a good full days surfing. He'd had a great day with some excellent rides, it had all come together for him. The moment wasn't lost on him either, surfing with Jimmy's son. Outthere certainly showed no fear of the reef, but Hypo knew one day it would teach him a lesson, it looked like he had gotten away with it today.
Hypo was unaware that that was all about to change.
Now it was the end of the day and it was just Hypo and Outthere in the lineup.
The light was fading; darkness was not too far away. One more wave then it was time to go in.
A set approached, probably one of the biggest of the day, Outthere, feeling competitive and wanting to prove himself, paddled past Hypo. Hypo sensing this was one of those waves to let go, hung back, watching with interest.
As the wave shaped up on the reef, Hypo knew it was the wrong choice, calling at Outthere to let it go, but he ignored him and paddled directly towards the threatening wall of water.
Outthere paddled confidently, showing no fear of the potential slab, swinging around to take the drop, but his efforts were in vain, as the wave hit the reef and jacked up forming a thick rectangular ledge, the kid stood up and desperately tried to place himself and board under the thick lip, but it caught him and sent him hurtling towards its base with full force.
Hypo was unable to do anything but watch as the following set waves hammered the same spot, where Outthere had landed, until he finally saw him surface, gasping for air, with a shocked and bloodied face and no board.
Outthere's only option was to swim out beyond the take off zone, or get hammered by the remaining waves.
Hypo yelled to him to swim out, Outthere, scared, followed his instructions this time and they both used Hypo's board to get to deeper water.
The two of them on the one board were going nowhere.
Outthere's thigh had been smashed on the reef, his eyebrow had a deep cut its entire length, his cheek shredded, and he was in excruciating pain, shock and fear.
Hypo found it hard to look at his beaten face.
“OK take my board and go in” said Hypo matter of factly.
“What about you'? Outthere asked.
“I'm going to swim it” he said.
“How?” he asked.
“I know this place”, “I know the currents” said Hypo partly lying.
“Just paddle in diagonally across the channel, then across to the beach break and then let a smaller one carry you in, OK? “
Hypo was trying to calm the situation for the two of them, talking down the situation, he knew they were both in the ****, and without a board, he definitely was. Together they would probably get smashed trying to get in, and Outthere could possibly drown if he didn't have a board, his injuries meant he couldn't swim it, the rip was too strong.
“Tell Jockey to pick me up at Ricky's beach OK'? “He'll know what that means”.
Outthere was scared and hurt, and where the **** was Ricky's beach? His head was spinning, he had blood in his eyes. He'd been hammered on the footy field before, but this felt more like getting hit by a truck. But he was in no position to argue, he just wanted to get away from this reef now. His whole body was aching.
Hypo tied his legrope to Outthere's good leg.
“OK kid” he said.
“You have to show me just what sort of balls you have now, get into the beach and get Jockey for me ok?”
Outthere nodded, he now felt upset leaving Hypo.
“I'm counting on you to get Jockey”, Hypo repeated. Hoping the task may overcome his pain.
'Ok”, said Outthere
“I'm so sorry” he blurted out.
“Save it for later” “You can buy me a beer” said Hypo
Outthere started padding for the channel.
It was almost dark.
Hypo watched him paddle in until he couldn't see him anymore. He just hoped he'd make it into shore and tell Jockey. Hypo knew they both had a mountain to climb, Hypo couldn't swim through the rip or over the reef. The rip was now too strong and the reef too shallow. Rickys beach was around the headland. It was his only option. He'd be swimming in the direction of the swell at least. But it was now dark and cold. He knew he had to keep moving. He was out beyond the breaking swells, and felt them as they passed under him.
Meanwhile Outthere had made it to the beach and struggled up to his car; he painfully got in and agonisingly drove to Jockeys place, nearly passing out along the way.
Jockey saw the cars lights and hearing the blaring horn knew something was wrong.
He opened the driver's door and saw the distressed and bloodied Outthere.
Outthere was distraught, panicly relaying Hypo's message.
He took Outthere into the house and grabbed his son and torchlight's and blankets.
They quickly jumped in his car and headed for Rickys beach.
His mind was racing, **** he thought, that's a 2-3 k swim in these seas and at night. He's not going to make it, was his next thought. They had paddled it before, when they were kids, for fun when it was flat, but to swim it? Nobody much went around to Rickys beach, it was far from the road, usually the swell missed it, but not a south east swell of this size. Hypo was an old guy now, he just wouldn't have the strength of his youth, Jockey thought.
His wife took care of Outthere and the Search and Rescue were called, but they were busy up the coast looking for a missing fishing boat and wouldn't be available until morning, so they were on their own.
Jockey arrived at the access to Rickys Beach. He and his son trekked through the bush about 2k's until they hit the sand.
The surf was crashing close to the beach as there were no banks there, but it was big.
****, Jockey thought, he'll have to swim through a 10' shorebreak in the dark .
They split up to scour the shoreline with torches.
Hypo was still swimming, he'd probably travelled halfway, he thought, it was dark, and he could only sense how far he was off the coast.
He stopped to rest, he knew it was probably wrong, but he had to.
He was tired and his mind began to fill with thoughts from the past.
He thought of Jimmy and Auntie and his dog, those he knew cared about him. He thought of all the surf, good and not so good, the nights spent drinking, the money he'd wasted. He thought about a girl that had liked him when he was young, wondering where she was now.
He was scared, making it to shore was his only goal. The swell he had so looked forward to was now trying to end his life, and he knew it.
He was numb from the the cold, his mind now was really wandering, almost delusional, and unless he got out of the water soon, the cold would kill him.
He began to swim again, kind of pathetic in a sea such as this, but he felt the current was with him.
So he just swam in the dark into the direction he thought was the right one, the faint glow of a fire in the distance, “one arm over, next arm over, just keep moving” became his chant. Just like in the pool as a kid, he reminded himself.
He sensed he had rounded the headland, he had to keep away from the rocks, the only way to judge his distance out was by the sound of the crashing waves, the breaking waves volume was his guide.
Jockey knew now he had to wait for the dawn to find his friend, it was the longest night he could remember. His sense of helplessness was overwhelming. Others had turned up to help, and a fire was built on the beach. Much coffee was drunk, and some rum was passed around, but not a lot was said.
Jockeys wife had taken Outthere to the hospital where he was stitched up and x-rayed, he would be there for a while. All he could feel was remorse for his actions. His mum came and sat with him. He was full of painkillers. He told her what had happened, about how he had hassled Hypo and beat him down. Now he was safe and warm and Hypo was struggling in a cold rough sea on his own. He dreaded the thought now of him being the one who had caused his late father's best friend's death.
Hours passed and first light began to appear as Jockey stood on the beach looking out to sea. The swell had dropped to probably half the size of yesterday, he strained his eyes looking beyond the surf line and scouring the beach. There was nothing to be seen.
A glorious sun rose over a calmer ocean as if the night's trauma had never happened.
There's no way he could have swum it he thought, a sadness descended on him.
Sitting now at the diminishing fire, his head went down, he put his face in his calloused hands, feeling blank and numb. He felt sunk at the thought of now losing Hypo.
Then he heard a shout from the southern corner of the beach.
Someone had spotted something.
They were pointing to the rocks around the headland.
Jockey looked out, the sun was in his eyes.
“I think I see him!” someone yelled.
Jockey ran down to the southern corner and began scrambling over the rocks, in the general direction, slipping a few times along the way.
He could now see him, it was Hypo laying half propped up on a rock, the morning sun shining on him, the now calmer surf washing at him.
Jockey moved quicker until he reached the spot where Hypo was.
He wasn't moving and his eyes were closed.
His wetsuit was shredded from coming over the rocks.
“Please be alive” “please be alive”, Jockey muttered.
He reached Hypo.
“Hypo!, he called Hypo!
Hypo didn't open his eyes, but called back,
“ Jockey?”
“Yes mate” Jockey now laughing with relief “it's me”.
“**** me,” Jockey,” ………….“get me home bro”,…………. “I'm so tired ……..and cold”,……….. “and that young Outthere owes me a beer!”
“You betcha mate”, “you betcha”, Jockey laughed and signalled to the others, who had now reached the pair, to take him.
As the group wrapped him in blankets and stretchered him back to the waiting ambo, Jockey, full of mixed emotion, looked out to sea and said aloud;
“Thank you Jimmy, thank you, for bringing him home.”
AnthonyG
> 9 months ago, 8 Apr 2013
