Today was the realisation of one of those things you hope for - but dont really think will happen - to go surfing with the king.

Drove into the bay and could see the wind on its way in and the tide was pretty full - perfect conditions for a slightly out of the way swell magnet spot that delivers some fantastic contour line runs - and handles the wind.

I Zig zagged the crowd by paddling out at around 10:30 - got the shift change. There were some American accents around me and some big punts and air theeos going down. (not by me) - it was like being immersed in a sick surfing video - except the action was live and 3d.

So i joined the dots and worked out that the pros are onto my cheeky little spot - well informed they are!

Luckily i have been surfing here for many years - and its tricky - with some fake peaks and ledges and a shifting peak - so i was still able to jag some good waves and throw a bucket or 2 while the visitors worked the peak out (which they did very quickly)

The next thing i know i am sitting next to Tom carroll - pretty cool - mentally i start reliving that massive snap under the lip at pipe - as well as the cheeky Stand up stunt last year on the goldy

i am into stand up in a big way also - it gives you strong legs- so respect to da man.

I had my wave rhythm going nicely and the pack was being really cool with wave distribution - its like there is a code among the pro guys - there was nothing like the level of burning that goes on when the standard punters are out

so -lots of hoots - and some monster punts - and everyone was having a blast.

And then the unmistakeable wetty and iconic face of Kelly rocks up. Its fair to say that the vibe in the break changed a bit when he showed up. It was taking him awhile to get his first few waves under his belt - we was just respectfully edgin in - rather than the paddle straight to the peak / jump the queue trick that you see so often from punters


So Kelly is there - just being present.
and you just know that he is getting mobbed on the beach the whole time - so what do you do ? I can see he's just out there on the same trip as the rest of us so i give him lots of space and just enjoy the run of waves.

I jagged a nice peak out the back and Kelly is right next to me and i am just thinking - DO NOT KOOK THIS WAVE. Made it - rode the thing into the beach - with a few turns that felt great to me but were probably pretty ordinary by the boys standards. Paddled back out and sat at the end of the queue

Then Kelly actually paddles over to me and asks what i am riding ( a borrowed custom epoxy 6'3 x 19 3/4 that was really helping me get into some good ones - compared to these guys - i need all the help i can get - my board probably has twice the volume of whatever he was riding )

So that was a nice ice breaker - cos honestly - i didnt know what to do till that point. You dont want to say hi and hassle him cos he gets that by the ton - so what do you do - ignore him ?

Next wave i was in possie on a nice lump and took off - saw slats on the shoulder having a look and just called him in. My board is super mobile - so i have options - I had already had a ton of waves and thought - what the hell.

he goes - bottom turn , top turn - i bottom turn around him - getting the best view you will get of a Slats top turn - just grinning and hooting and fang off down the line hooting - he follows - i pull off the wave just laughing at whats going down and paddle back out.

Sweet as!

nice experience ,
if only you could of dropped in on tom carroll,
Now that would be realization of many people's dreams !!

Great story mate. Green thumbs galore!

Pitty you didn't have your GoPro handy haha

great story mate. glad you didnt kook it front of the boys.

Better than me. I'd of just sat and watched. Good move on playing it cool though..

Great story

Thats a really good experience to have

sweet story

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oz surf said...

Great story

Great write up Matt, enjoyed the read.

Nice story mate, you've got a pretty good one to tell there...

Quick question for others:

Who is the most famous person you've been out in the surf with...

Me it would be Mick Fanning, around the time I was on the Gold Coast living near Kirra by myself .... I was out one early morning at Snapper when I realized I had Fanning just a meter ahead of me to my right .... what was funny looking back now is getting out of his way as he took off on a set, dont think I have ever move faster than that on a surfboard before.

Any other stories?

Called Jordy Smith into a wave at Bells a few years back, then next set he called me in to one! Was so pleased I didn't kook it. Seemed like a pretty nice guy, didn't chat to him really, wanted to leave him be, but picked up on his willingness to share the waves with an unknown kook (me).

Cheers Jordy!