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Buster fin said..
Clearly, there was no surfing done today, such a horrible day as it was here on the west coast.
But seriously, there had to have been some board carnage around. Any stories to tell?
I surfed Trigg for the first time in years yesterday. As I walked down with a mate I commented that I needed to get my small sucky beachie game together and switch on the crowd head as there was bobbing buoy every five metres along the whole coast.
We paddled out and I picked my spot on our peak. A few went through and were ridden pretty well by others. Some young guy snaked and hassled, but I sorted that out pretty quick by refusing to be his b****.
So a wave came to me. There was a bloke inside of me who was umming and aahing and who had a big section to make anyway. I made the call that: a) he was probably too deep unless he was real good, b) his refusal too commit meant he had no chance and was going to be late. Head down and off I went, eyeing off snaky bloke on the shoulder hovering to burn me. Grumpy head on and snaky boy has backed off, quick glance inside and deep bloke has given up. ITS MINE ALL MINE BWAAH HA HA HA!!! Paddle hard, went to stand aaaaannnndddddd.....
there was another bloke right underneath me. I dropped on top of him. It was as head on as head collisions in the surf get. Someone's board hit me hard in the leg.
After popping up I knew I had to paddle over and apologise with the old chestnut "Sorry ma-ate I dint seeya", hoping for a polite acknowledgement of my kookdom, but half expecting a mouthful, especially if there was board damage. Anyway, it turned out I had dropped in on my mate, the bloke on the inside of me had been waiting to see what he was doing before he committed and I should have looked even deeper again. SIGH...bloody crowded beachies...
On the plus side there was no damage to my friend's board. However I got what I deserved: an eight inch pressure ding that just crushed my bottom, a gouge right next to it about three inches long, and two crunches on the rail with the consistency now of a dish sponge. On inspecting the damage I was pretty much over it. Paddled back out, got one more wave - a really good long one btw - and then went in dejected, sat on the beach and waited for my friend to come in. On the plus side the view at Yello for the post surf coffee was pleasant.