Great post Waveslave
Agree amazing story and riveting read......of all the things I have seen/know of Tom Carroll (admittedly not much) for me this book is the most impressive, really lays it out there, the links and themes through his life and all the rest of it make it a really interesting and imo valuable story, most people would have allowed it to slip past....god knows he's not the only person/pro surfer to accomplish something and then let exactly that happen (slip by). Amazing story and amazing he's willing to share it so openly.
And JB that board wow..... like most I'm sure when people say Tom Carroll to me I see that board from footage from the pipe masters, coming off the bottom and snapping at Pipe that event and his surfing in it still some of the best surfing I've ever seen imo