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doggie said...Prawnhead said...
that was the lull!!

did you take that pic?
yeah i did with an old auto focus minolta film camera 90 or 91?
that is outside corner but i discovered that day there is bommie that breaks a good couple of hundred yards outside the furthest temples section(way off to the left) which you can see when sitting in the lineup that is a good indicator that .....
A there is a very big set coming
B there is a very real chance you will get a real pizzling unless you padlle like michael petersen
C getting lip launched can be so much fun sometimes you can even get a second up and over on the same wave!
D outside corner is terrible place for hold downs and washing along in front of the foam if you don't pentrate when you don't manage to catch the small one in front of said set
some of the best waves (and wipeouts) i ever had