Honestly , I wish I got as excited on surfing as the "kooks" described in this thread .
I remember when I was in my early teens , only been surfing a couple of years and I would sit out there all day with it onshore just cause I was stoked to be surfing . "Those were the days"

Then I travelled , surfed some world class waves and not much compares to that... I don't surf much anymore

. Now I rock up to the beach and don't even go out most of the time cause I cant be stuffed , or "its going to be onshore soon" , or "bloody tides are wrong". Most of the time I end up going home and taking the dog for a swim or hanging out with the kids.
When the surf is "on" , I'm there and charging but what the hell is wrong with me?
Sometimes I wish I was a kook again, just stoked on surfing and having genuine non judgemental fun ........ it was soo much more enjoyable back then.
We were all kooks once apon a time, no point whinging about it.....