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*see emphasis - I've only been surfing for a year or so so I'm not putting pressure on myself to give it another shot but is it possible for us mere mortals? I just wished we'd get decent waves in Perth!!!
Sincerely the average weekend warrior.
I just thought the vid was good.
When it is big you need some length and rocker in your board. Also three fins (or four?) would be better for all conditions really.
At 70kg my current boards are 5'8 6'1 and 6'6. The 6'1 is my favourite good wave board and goes well in bigger stuff because it has a bit of rocker. The 6'6 is similar but thicker and paddles into the bigger surf much easier than the shorter boards. 5'8 is most used board due to small metro surf, has low rocker so goes fast but sticks on bigger waves.
In summary, you need more rocker on bigger and/or sucky waves. More length will help paddle into and stabilise in big surf. Three or four fins will also stabilise the board.
As for Perth having rubbish surf, it does, but you can start by picking the days. Eg. not surfing during a storm (yesterday), but surfing after (today).