Select to expand quote
LateStarter said...subasurf said...
Our changing beaches - scientists look for a break in the surf zone
http://www.csiro.au/en/Portals/Media/Scientists-look-for-a-break-in-the-surf-zone.aspx
They're building this weather station at Secret Harbour?
I'd put my house on this thing being burned/broken/stolen before Christmas.
its been there for over a year already. they're using the data to vaildate existing near shore sediment and wave models (eg xbeach) and all pretty positive results so far from what i hear.
won't tell you much that a surfer doesn't already know from expereince anyhow... but could for example tell you how good the banks were gonna be on a stretch of beach after a storm for a given duration, wave heights, winds of the storm etc, and if you had a spare 100k or so to get all the bathymetry before hand and then have someone run the models...
the navy stuff is the most interesting, could let a SAS or diver team know what kind of shore break they are going to encounter when entering hostile terrain, eg, seems like super calm conditions and team not expecting difficulties, but has checked the model and the area has multiple offshore sand banks due to previous storm and a clean offshroe ground swell arriving, expect large breaking waves instead...and through in board for post mission paddle.