Hi All

Any reports for this season ? - good, bad, ugly ?

El Nino :(((( - No Fronts, just these big high pressure systems

just came back after 6 weeks. Very inconsistent, I'm glad I didn't line up for any expensive boat trips. Better off in WA. Maybe it will be a good late season

Mate is about to head over for his fourth trip of the season. He reckons there has been lots of waves. Small, but lots of fun. I guess it depends what you are after.

He hasn't done any expensive boat trips though. Just a couple of islands around and including Bali.

Just got back from 3 weeks in Bali and it was small.

You only need to look at the WA forecasts - same swell goes to indo.

El Nino here to stay:

www.bom.gov.au/climate/enso/

US based, although same ocean right?
www.theinertia.com/surf/code-red-were-in-for-one-of-the-biggest-el-ninos-in-recorded-history/

We have had two big swells and loads of 3-4ft stuff. Ridden my 6'10 4 or 5 times only as an indication. Probably could have used it a few other times though. Not a classic season like last but there have been waves almost every day if you know where to play. Winds have been weird with a very late wet season and the trades consequently late as well.

Biggest day we have had - I stayed on the beach

Just getting out looks like hard work. That looks like a completely different wave. Never have been there, but having seen vids, I am amazed it holds that size. I had no idea.

Tiny little board too.

Great pic Ted. Thanks.

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Ted the Kiwi said...
Biggest day we have had - I stayed on the beach

that is ridiculous big , i hate it when im on a surf trip and its that big maybe im a pussy or maybe ive been shipwhipped a few times on days i dont want to go out but honestly everyone wants it to be bigger and bigger till it happens and than everyone pulls a hammy, boards too short,bali belly, too tired cause they surfed somewhere bigger better yesterday.
ted i am with you man....i am on the beach safe and sound with my blanket and pillow andwatching dudes cop the whipping of a lifetime... how was ya surf you ask as they come in bleeding from head to toe with their board in pieces and there pride shattered... yeah i got one...one what? one flogging of a lifetime yeeeow.
it is good to watch .......

Well that's what it comes down to in surfing big waves - are you prepared to cop the flogging when the inevitable set is a little bigger than all the others or you stuff a take off? I have been out in solid surf and had to rescue people who paddled out all gung ho then didn't want a bar of it. It's so important to recognise the limits of your own comfort zone.

Surfing big waves isn't hard with the right equipment and the desire to go in my opinion. It's dealing with them when they get you. That's the frightening part. Great big channels make for a safer, more confidence building session.

Or get a ski and cheat. It's easy then.

Ps: my days of big waves are long gone. Don't mistake me for some maniacal charger. Of course everyone's definition of BIG is intensely personal.