watching mac and crew surf lm



nar. getting washed over the rocks at the alley as a teen.


was never a keen rock jumper from that day on.


still have the scars on my back

Getting knocked the f out and coming up nearly drowning at margs
Watching the bay close out both ways at Margs and knowing I was going to get mowed by more whitewater than I'd ever seen
Getting rag dolled at Peurto
Swimming in from a bombie.............long swim...sharky water

Oh there has been a few. Worse beating ever was south coast NSW before reefs were called slabs,double overhead and I was 15. Young and bravado made me paddle out,the older crew forced me to take a wave.....that was just beyond horrendous. Caught in the lip,free falling and the most savage hold down and rag rolling . Had ever had. Oh to be a grom

Nearly drowning a few years back from being too fat, and slow, and in surf that was too big for me, on a board too small and an old leg rope that gave way

Being dragged back over the falls on a 6-8 foot wave at the Alley by my SUP leash. I thought I made it, the board dragged me back over....

OR

At Brunswick bar as an 18 year old. 8-10 foot sets breaking on my head with dry rocks 5 meters behind me. Luckily the sweep was so strong it hit and somehow I got tumble rolled past them and lived. Scariest 30 seconds of my life. Thought I was f'ed.

Ok my worst surfing? Experience was on the way to the Surf. We all headed down to surf the farm and the race was on to get to the waves. Middle of winter and big hill to get to the waves. We'll chrispy was leading the pack until I ragdolled on the way down then slid for about 20mts on my arse until.a big rock.finally grazed through my wettie and used my arse cheeks as brake pads to stop. Oh to be a grom

hmmmm well this one is simple for me .... seeing one of my closest brothers ^^^^^^ sitting in a hospital in Queensland last year with his leg ripped to buggery and there wasn't a single farking thing I could do about it .... geez farken hope that never happens again eh

For me was a lazy duckdive through a massive wave at Terrigal Haven on my kneelo in a big ugly southerly swell, the board smashed me in the face and the wave got hold of me then drove me deep in amongst the boulders off the end of the point, my board was tombstoning and I was climbing my leggie to get back to the surface only to cop another one on the head. I paddle back in after getting my breathe and am not ashamed to say I remember letting out a big sob at one stage

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laceys lane said..

watching mac and crew surf lm



nar. getting washed over the rocks at the alley as a teen.


was never a keen rock jumper from that day on.


still have the scars on my back

I'm hearing ya on both counts Lacey, as part of the crew you speak of surfing LM (noob city) & a very bad experience off the rocks at Burleigh in 4m swell around 1991 on an esky lid, still have scares from that experience.

Nice work Chrispy.....smh told me about the walk in there last time I was down that way....now days its an easy drive in

I paddled out (somehow) on a massive day in Raglan when I was about 19 or 20 and thought I was 10 foot tall and bullet proof....I still have no idea how I even made it out.....anyway it was huge clean and perfect......I had caught about 5 waves and was feeling like I was invincible - as I paddled back out a bloke lost it on takeoff and I thought I would swing around for the late takeoff.......and as you guessed I got lip launched on take off and wore 5 or 6 on the head - by this stage I was almost smack up in front of the cliff inside Whale Bay - very high tide and loads of water moving - there is basically no where to go but back out.....so I had to paddle back out and it took me an eternity....I was also petrified by this stage as the sets were getting bigger and bigger and I was paddling for Australia......I had to swallow my pride and ask a mate to come in with me in as I was too scared to attempt it on my own.....we figured the best way was to paddle (further out) to Indicators where it was bigger and then catch a small one in - straight in through the Valley. Anyway it was madness.....I shat myself many times......somehow made it in.....when we got in we could not believe we were even out there...still to this day I think its madness that we made it out....normally the gods choose to decide who gets to make it out the back but that day in 1993 we lucked it through a big lull......and it should have cost us but we got lucky. They made a video of that days events and its called Riders of the Rocks........if anyone has a VHS copy please let me know as I have misplaced mine.

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Ted the Kiwi said..

Nice work Chrispy.....smh told me about the walk in there last time I was down that way....now days its an easy drive in

I paddled out (somehow) on a massive day in Raglan when I was about 19 or 20 and thought I was 10 foot tall and bullet proof....I still have no idea how I even made it out.....anyway it was huge clean and perfect......I had caught about 5 waves and was feeling like I was invincible - as I paddled back out a bloke lost it on takeoff and I thought I would swing around for the late takeoff.......and as you guessed I got lip launched on take off and wore 5 or 6 on the head - by this stage I was almost smack up in front of the cliff inside Whale Bay - very high tide and loads of water moving - there is basically no where to go but back out.....so I had to paddle back out and it took me an eternity....I was also petrified by this stage as the sets were getting bigger and bigger and I was paddling for Australia......I had to swallow my pride and ask a mate to come in with me in as I was too scared to attempt it on my own.....we figured the best way was to paddle (further out) to Indicators where it was bigger and then catch a small one in - straight in through the Valley. Anyway it was madness.....I shat myself many times......somehow made it in.....when we got in we could not believe we were even out there...still to this day I think its madness that we made it out....normally the gods choose to decide who gets to make it out the back but that day in 1993 we lucked it through a big lull......and it should have cost us but we got lucky. They made a video of that days events and its called Riders of the Rocks........if anyone has a VHS copy please let me know as I have misplaced mine.

hey ted i had more or less the same thing at the same age in big alley. got caught inside laceys lane. must have been 15 waves in a row with the smallest 6 ft. come up,one breath, duck dive the best i could- next one. i was pinned on the bank, but still to deep to stand on. the only way i got in was ditching the board which allowed me to be washed over into shore. the bummer was the board was going back out again

i was never the same after that. showed a lot more repect for the ocean after that

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laceys lane said..

watching mac and crew surf lm



nar. getting washed over the rocks at the alley as a teen.


was never a keen rock jumper from that day on.


still have the scars on my back

Good topic LL! Scarred for life!

Worst;
Multiple Hold down at Bells... Over the years...
1 foot East Coast Tassie, slammed onto a reef, thinking that could have easily been heaps worse! In terms of a head knock.

I watched a guy surfing 1-2 foot burleigh rock break go for a reo, fall back into shallow water. He put his hand down, it got wedged between 2 rocks and snapped both bones as it washed him past. His forearm did a right angle.

He came up freaking, I took his board, my mate put him on his and straight the beach. Heavy.

Was out on the boat with the old man and few mates when I was 15...about 40 nautical miles of the Coast of WA...the place we usually surfed was a bit cross shore so we headed to the site of a famous ship wreck...this waves is seriously in the middle of nowhere and looked like it was doing a pretty good impression of inside sunset at 6 foot...being 15 we immediatly jumped off the boat and hit it...I got the first one and its still one of the heaviest drops I ever taken in my life I just barely made it to the bottom and this thing just starteded frieghtraining down the reef I am absolutly flying on a wave that was easliy triple overhead and I am racing just to stay in front....I get wise and decide to pull the eject button only to get clipped and drilled....just manage to sneak under one and make it to the quasi channel...look for my mates who look like dots...then I look at the boat and see my old man and uncle screaming and pointing furiously at the horizon....I don't look I just hit the gass for the deep water and scrap over a wave every bit twice as big as the one I just rode...its only then do I look back toward my mates and see them about to cop 5 waves that were a good 15ft right on the head...dad and my uncle were counting heads as each wave past...talking to him later he wasn't sure what to do as there was no way he could get a 60 ft cray boat in to pull them out of the ****...everyone made it....I'm just gald I got that first one...

Tux, that's bitter-sweet, (almost) best & worst in 1! Far out!

Stood on a Cobbler one evening when coming in across a shallow reef. I've broken bones and had a few dislocations, but no pain i've experienced came close to that inflicted by a slimy catfish!

Another time I paddled out pre-dawn at a local beachie, it was still dark but I could see whitewash and the waves were solid; I couldn't wait to get out there. Being dark meant that I couldn't see the sets coming until it was too late. A wave came out of nowhere and broke right in front of me, i tried to duckdive but was too late. My board was ripped from my hands, i felt my leggie snap and then I was thrown into the sand head first and then ragdolled. Hitting my head aside, just being held under in the dark is pretty disorientating. There is no light, so you can't see which way is up, everything is black. I tried to stay calm and after what seemed an eternity, eventually surfaced, dizzy, heart pounding and lungs burning for air. I took a few more waves on the head, and could feel a rip taking me further out to sea. After a mammoth effort and thnkful for the extra bouyancy afforded to me by a wetsuit, I managed to make it back to the shore. Seeing my board lying lifelessly, face down on the beach brought about the stark realisation that that could have indeed been me. There was nobody else there either, not a soul, so had something else gone wrong I was well and truly on my own.

Thats the closest I've ever come to drowning, it scared the ** out of me on the day and has given me a totally new respect for the ocean. Stay safe out there fellas!

Wow Latestarter that sounds bloody heavy! And as for you Tux I hope you brought a lottery ticket!!

2 sketchy ones that stand out would be:

Jumping off the rocks at Sawmills (Kennett River) High tide and 4 to 6 foot winter ground swell and slipping over just as I went to jump. Got smashed by a massive wall of white wash hit the back of my head as I got pushed over then rag dolled across the rocks. Had bruises all over me and my board had more holes in it than swiss cheese.

For those that don't now the place it's a prick of a place to get in and out of at the best of times. (Simondo should know where I mean)

And the second and worst one was as a 16 year old grom surfing Johanna and the swell started picking up pretty quick. Jumped from 3 - 4 foot to like 4 - 6 foot in about 30 minutes. was still pretty cocky tacking off deep then out of nowhere an 8 foot bomb set rolls in and I am in the take off zone
Went to go for the second wave of the set took off deep again and just as I stood up the thing just grew and grew. It was on my backhand and halfway through the bottom turn I looked down the line and Instantly knew I wasn't going to make it. For a split second I freaked and mid bottom turn and then tried to straighten out but it was to late. The lip smacked me in the head so hard my teeth rattled, then It pushed me under and rag dolled me for what felt like forever. I could feel my board tomb stoning after a while but the undertow just kept pushing me down more and more. when the pressure finally eased I started scratching for the surface but was running out of air real fast. My lungs were screaming, I could see the surface but just couldn't reach it. I was about 5 foot from the surface and started seeing stars and black spots. As soon as I felt my hand bust the surface I panicked and went to take a breath but took in a gob full of water. When I finally hit the surface my board was floating right next to me so I grabbed it and just hung on and started spewing and trying to get a lung full of air at the same time. By this stage I had been dragged 200 m and was spat out in to into a deep water rip. Two older guys that were paddling for the same set saw what happened when I took off and paddled over to see of I was OK. After that I hung off the board for a few minutes getting my self back together, turned for the beach and gut rode a wall of white water in. That rattled me for about 3 days that one, and even though it happened over 20 years ago still remember it as clear as yesterday.

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Locky24 said..
For those that don't now the place it's a prick of a place to get in and out of at the best of times. (Simondo should know where I mean)

Yes I recall.....I surfed there once in 2004 - my last trip to Bells.....I surfed it with one other bloke for 2 hrs at about 3 to 4 ft and a light offshore.....seemed a little soft early on then as the tide dropped it was unreal. I then stopped at the Wye River Pub on my way back to Torquay.....a lovely spot with an amazing view.

speaking off scratching to the surface for air. i got smacked at one of the few times i surfed burleigh.

i was burning for air and was stroking for the surface. problem was i got tumbled around so much i didn't know where i was. lots of foam and sand churning around

i swam to the bottom and hit the sand.

can't tell you how fff ed i was when i realised my error

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laceys lane said..



can't tell you how fff ed i was when i realised my error

Now now Lacey 666ers are not that bad mate


I've got a similar story only at coolie beach front big swell,I was blowing bubble and going this is it until my brain clicked,the board will be floating so I grabbed the leggie and pulled my way to the surface.

Another at Burleigh big swell = big crowd on the point watching,rock jump of the rocks at the cove,leggie gets caught on the rock behind the board slips out of my hands and I land on the rock in front and washed over a few more,I ended having to swim out them made my way in battered bleeding and soul ripped to pieces,I had to do the walk of shame all the way up the hill to were the car was parked.

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Ted the Kiwi said..

Nice work Chrispy.....smh told me about the walk in there last time I was down that way....now days its an easy drive in

I paddled out (somehow) on a massive day in Raglan when I was about 19 or 20 and thought I was 10 foot tall and bullet proof....I still have no idea how I even made it out.....anyway it was huge clean and perfect......I had caught about 5 waves and was feeling like I was invincible - as I paddled back out a bloke lost it on takeoff and I thought I would swing around for the late takeoff.......and as you guessed I got lip launched on take off and wore 5 or 6 on the head - by this stage I was almost smack up in front of the cliff inside Whale Bay - very high tide and loads of water moving - there is basically no where to go but back out.....so I had to paddle back out and it took me an eternity....I was also petrified by this stage as the sets were getting bigger and bigger and I was paddling for Australia......I had to swallow my pride and ask a mate to come in with me in as I was too scared to attempt it on my own.....we figured the best way was to paddle (further out) to Indicators where it was bigger and then catch a small one in - straight in through the Valley. Anyway it was madness.....I shat myself many times......somehow made it in.....when we got in we could not believe we were even out there...still to this day I think its madness that we made it out....normally the gods choose to decide who gets to make it out the back but that day in 1993 we lucked it through a big lull......and it should have cost us but we got lucky. They made a video of that days events and its called Riders of the Rocks........if anyone has a VHS copy please let me know as I have misplaced mine.

Funny ted back in the 70s Whale Bay after work one night I was with a guy from Hamilton East, Murray Peterson god only knows were he is now , we jumped of the ledge I got through he got smashed back on it hurt this leg quite bad . I had some waves it was getting dark tried coming in every time I got near the shore this hell rip took me back out I ended up letting my board go and trying to body surf when a wave came and managed to hold on to a rock took every thing I had to hold on against the rip . Never struck this again It was dark when I got my sorry arse back to the car Whale bay was nothing like it is today back then there was no one around (hard to believe )

Getting caught inside at fairly big Ulu's some years back was pretty bad. Its not all about hold downs and hitting rocks and coral. A nasty incident with a d@ckhead in the water can be bad enough at times.

I've surfed some heavy breaks on big days long ago (to old to slow and to wise now),remembering a few big scary sets banging down on me at
Phillip Island 10-12ft.
the one I always remember
when i was a 14yd surfing nth cronulla, i dropped in on this guy who was about 26yd.
he freaked and spewed out FARK of CANT or i will kill you.
he kept hogging waves and getting inside and blocking.
so i went down the beach about 40m away
i went for the same wave as mental head but it had this fethering lip 25m between him and me.
so im going along this wave for about 50m when next min im face down in the water trying to remember what happend,
next thing the freak paddled past me saying i told you CANT i will kill you.
a mate was on the beach watching and said the freak just went flat out trying to get past the whitewash and then king hit me in the back
of the head.
i hope that CANT is in an old peoples home eating sh!t food and sh!tting his pants

Oh you want the worst ok I surfed my sup once then sold it

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62mac said...
Oh you want the worst ok I surfed my sup once then sold it

Gold

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weiry said..

I've surfed some heavy breaks on big days long ago (to old to slow and to wise now),remembering a few big scary sets banging down on me at
Phillip Island 10-12ft.
the one I always remember
when i was a 14yd surfing nth cronulla, i dropped in on this guy who was about 26yd.
he freaked and spewed out FARK of CANT or i will kill you.
he kept hogging waves and getting inside and blocking.
so i went down the beach about 40m away
i went for the same wave as mental head but it had this fethering lip 25m between him and me.
so im going along this wave for about 50m when next min im face down in the water trying to remember what happend,
next thing the freak paddled past me saying i told you CANT i will kill you.
a mate was on the beach watching and said the freak just went flat out trying to get past the whitewash and then king hit me in the back
of the head.
i hope that CANT is in an old peoples home eating sh!t food and sh!tting his pants

So you were only 14 and the other grub was in his mid twenties ? What a flea I've seen older blokes hassling kids out in the water from time to time. Weak as piss.

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62mac said..

Oh you want the worst ok I surfed my sup once then sold it

is this what you said when you brought it of jacko



'I cannot promise I'll try, but I'll try to try.'




actually sounds like most of your boards you get mac

Who's Jacko mate, was the you who gave me the red

Oh and all my boards are insane its just the rider who isn't

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62mac said..

Who's Jacko mate, was the you who gave me the red

Oh and all my boards are insane its just the rider who isn't

i didn't red thumb you. if i think your an a## hole i would tell you




btw, jacko the guy who's time you waste when you go into roar once every 6 months when you think about a canal board.


its a wonder they don't lock the door on you.


is there nothing worse than a shop owner give another shop owner the pain in the neck customer routine

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laceys lane said..
is this what you said when you brought it of Jacko and then sold it after one wave

'I did try it I promise, but its the wrong colour'

Fixed it for ya LL

Sorry Mac - could not resist