have you had quality waves or has your local been sparse and you needed to venture.
maybe work or health has been your achilles.

no secret i live in a surf environment that only produces swell 7 months of the year.
the positive side to that means i travel to get my surf fix.
this year has been a busy year work wise for me ,the weather has been beautiful after the cyclone
but the surf has been the worst I've ever seen it.
I'm praying for weather work and health to line up for 2016

whats your surfing year 2015 been like

Havent surfed a good session this year my time is done,its all down hill.

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Macaha said..
Havent surfed a good session this year my time is done,its all down hill.

its work ,no time, weather , lost froth

was the glass on the empty side

Best part is I've got to talking to heaps of the guys,made some new friends as some of my older surf buddies have been out of action due to old age things.

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Cobra said..

Macaha said..
Havent surfed a good session this year my time is done,its all down hill.

its work ,no time, weather , lost froth

Probably a combo of all,I could surf every day if I wanted but really can't be bothered.

Had heaps on the go so I've missed a chunk of the past 2 months , a large one ..... but I'll make up for it trust me

cool pup

I've had a ball. The way I see it I've been given a second chance after 2 1/2 years out of the water so I'm on it most days and even though I'm on a 666 it works unreal as a longboard.

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smh said...
I've had a ball. The way I see it I've been given a second chance after 2 1/2 years out of the water so I'm on it most days and even though I'm on a 666 it works unreal as a longboard.

Yours is a great story. As I said before, inspirational.

And this has been a fantastic year for as the longboard has meant I have had lots of surfs I would have passed on before.

And the longboard and 8' semi-gun (inspired by the board I saw Trevor in Ulladulla on last year) have seen me surfing the biggest I have been comfortable in over the last 10 years. Getting in early helps so much as does bulk paddle power to get to waves and avoid waves (the horrie darkie).

sok I guess. got to find some more sb time

I live for the ocean and water. surfing, down winding, paddle training . ins and out in really crapy stuff even

not to many days that a cant do something.

I would have a massive hole in my life if I didn't and that's the truth.


mac. you've had some good days and good waves. but I reckon your gym program is all wrong .

mobility training is the go. even the way you walk just looks hard and stiff.

and make your self get out there for one mid week session. you don't give your self a chance to stay in the groove by going once a week.

use it or lose it.

get your groove happening and the fro will follow.

I still get off on any wave I ride

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laceys lane said...
sok I guess. got to find some more sb time

I live for the ocean and water. surfing, down winding, paddle training . ins and out in really crapy stuff even

not to many days that a cant do something.

I would have a massive hole in my life if I didn't and that's the truth.


mac. you've had some good days and good waves. but I reckon your gym program is all wrong .

mobility training is the go. even the way you walk just looks hard and stiff.

and make your self get out there for one mid week session. you don't give your self a chance to stay in the groove by going once a week.

use it or lose it.

get your groove happening and the fro will follow.

I still get off on any wave I ride

I agree with most of that.

what about your surfing year chrispy, i know your one of the most frothed individuals an this planet.
id be interested in your report.was it a good year

For me, ...well I think I've had a pretty blessed year surf wise. I'm only home for 6 months of the year and this year my time home has fortunately coincided with good banks and favourable winds each time except for this past month, where I had one really good day out of 28 :(
The highlight for me was 24 days in Bali and Lembongan surfed 21 days out of 24. Looking back now I've been spoils rotten really

Lowlight for me was last Thursday, small fun day at ocean beach at Denmark showing off in front of the wife, switch foot nose ride, lost it and the big banana plowe'd into the wife cracking three of her ribs had a leggie on, pulled on that as I came off knowing it was heading that way but couldn't stop it. She's a tough nut and once she got her breath back paddled back out and managed her two best waves of the day. Wasn't until I took her into the hospital that evening the ribs were confirmed cracked...WHOOPS

however as I said apart from that and this last month I'm pretty greatful to Huey for looking after me this year, pretty stoked really

Hope the wife is ok and will forgive you in time

My year has been unreal. Worked far too much but been lucky to live with these two waves outside my front door for the majority of the year. Learnt a lot. Improved / learnt to ride nice hollow waves. 2015 has been my best surfing year ever. Think it will be hard to top. Had some great boards and insane conditions on a very consistent basis. And met some amazing people. Heaven. Next year things do not look as Rosey at this stage but still feeling good about what lies ahead

Does anyone like you, Ted?

Probably not Mr Drip - but this year was 3 years in the making. Lots of effort to make it happen rest assured. Been super fortunate but it did not happen overnight. Loads of planning across all facets of our life to make it happen. The waves may have been great but there were lots of Hick ups along the way and it was not smooth sailing at all. We have had to deal with a lot of crap and at times it's been a real struggle. But I will not complain. We have learnt a lot this year. Some of those lessons have been extremely painful along the way. It's not been a bed of roses that's for sure and far from easy. But we have made it through.

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Cobra said..
what about your surfing year chrispy, i know your one of the most frothed individuals an this planet.
id be interested in your report.was it a good year

mixed bag here i think cobra... the banks out front have fired a lot this year,and handled bigger swells than they usually do,

Spring has been horrible ,summer so far has not been good. Not too much of a problem as i am in a new venture and have been pumping out some big hours,but it has some massive highs multiple times a day which is very very cool...i also had a few heartbreaks this year also. I got /am pretty unfit/fat and need a bit of push in the surf to get going

So i have started training and getting all my flexibility back

I surf some incredible rubbish also and still enjoy it....hey when you are a undesirable of tower 40 you do what ya gotta do,and thats surf anything with your mates.









Hey mac im really sad/suprised to hear you say that you could surf during the week but dont want to,that it does not intrest you.....That was a real WTF moment to me....get out of the gym and get wet champion...try some yoga at board culture and other surf specific stuff that will get you fit and surf better...unless your planning on being a bikie

Funny I was thinking yesterday afternoon this time last year I was getting out for a surf pretty much every day . This year it's been more like once weekly . Poor waves playing a part , also reckon I am getting more choosey and if the waves aren't great don't bother .

Had a couple of trips down south Hobart way both cracked great surf .

Had a couple of trips to the mainland ( Gold Coast , Sydney ) both complete duds surf wise .

So mixed bag alround , probably less surfing but better quality when it was on .Hoping for a nice easterly swell next few days should finish the year nicely .

Probably the least I've surfed in 20 years.

Sometimes life gets in the way, had a Little dude, a shoulder injury and a crapload of work..

And a few poorly timed shark sightings when I take time off..

Have a few boards that I've hardly ridden but more free time is on the horizon...

high highs and low lows...

maldives for two weeks pumping
bought a mal (got up on the nose but it aint noseriding)
two weeks in coolie

work work work work onshore small work work work get home and flat work work work work finally waves than chased out by bag of teeth work work work so on and so forth

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Razzonater said..
high highs and low lows...

maldives for two weeks pumping
bought a mal (got up on the nose but it aint noseriding)
two weeks in coolie

work work work work onshore small work work work get home and flat work work work work finally waves than chased out by bag of teeth work work work so on and so forth

Where did that happen?

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DARTH said..

Razzonater said..
high highs and low lows...

maldives for two weeks pumping
bought a mal (got up on the nose but it aint noseriding)
two weeks in coolie

work work work work onshore small work work work get home and flat work work work work finally waves than chased out by bag of teeth work work work so on and so forth

Where did that happen?

south Cervantes- north wedge- felt like it was a 10 metre one but probably 3-3.5. Skulking around coming closer and closer, quite an overly friendly fish, was nice that it was on the surface so I could see it.

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Ted the Kiwi said..

Awesome pic mate

I'd have to say this year was very mediocre, just seems like the last 3 years have gotten progressively worse compared to the previous three.

But on the other hand my quiver has been fine tuned over the last 3 years to surf a variety of conditions basically adding boards that surf well in small conditions really. Added a couple of wide boards with little rocker, 2 LB's & a 666 which doubles as a wind surfer. My log & 666 has scored me fun waves in conditions that would have been unsurfable on my SB's.

The good thing is there have been a lot of consecutive days where I've had waist high waves to myself or a couple of other people. Sometimes those small clean days out on the log are a lot more fun than lumpy bumpy hung over head & a 1/2 days with 15 people out.

Overall I've actually been out in the water more often than previous years, not a great deal of standout days. But its been a happy blur of another year flashing by far too quickly

can see why you like King Island so much Ted - on the pics could almost be the same break except that at your homebreak they are surfing without wetsuits

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Razzonater said..

DARTH said..

Razzonater said..
high highs and low lows...

maldives for two weeks pumping
bought a mal (got up on the nose but it aint noseriding)
two weeks in coolie

work work work work onshore small work work work get home and flat work work work work finally waves than chased out by bag of teeth work work work so on and so forth

Where did that happen?

south Cervantes- north wedge- felt like it was a 10 metre one but probably 3-3.5. Skulking around coming closer and closer, quite an overly friendly fish, was nice that it was on the surface so I could see it.

Going to BR on Sunday, will be looking out for them.

Been out of the water for 18 months due to illness.....On the mend ,so hope to get wet soon.

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Rabbs said..
Been out of the water for 18 months due to illness.....On the mend ,so hope to get wet soon.

well mate i hope 2016 is your best year

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Cobra said..

Rabbs said..
Been out of the water for 18 months due to illness.....On the mend ,so hope to get wet soon.

well mate i hope 2016 is your best year

ditto

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laceys lane said..

Cobra said..

Rabbs said..
Been out of the water for 18 months due to illness.....On the mend ,so hope to get wet soon.

well mate i hope 2016 is your best year

ditto

and the same from me buddy