I like this guy,even though im sure he would have had some good scams going over time...i would like to hear is off camera tales..

what do you peeps do to get waves in your life?

Great find Chrispy. Living the dream - still - somehow Nice lace to hang out for 50 years. He should have just worked a few more years then he could have brought a good chunk of Jbay in its day and be living pretty sweet now

Yeah that was good mate,all depends on your life he has never married or had children owned a property life can be so simple if thats what your chasing but I get greater joy elsewhere,watching loved ones grow.Flip side is have a great business and model,employ an awesome manager and pay them bucket loads to run the joint without you I'm still trying

Looks a bit like Roy

Great vid..sounds like he might be from Switzerland where I am atm. Saw a poster the other day, "sorry we have no beach" haha but maybe he surfed France weekend warrior style...havta go army after school, good idea I think. Also sounds like he had a job. Grabbing oysters to sell/trade is working. Kinda thing you could do in the old days before higher population & corporations changed things. Would be much harder these days to follow in the old blokes footsteps, good on him. He seems happy, we're all different with different life goals.

My old man took me to Monky Mia Shark bay in 1982 & wasn't happy coz he couldn't find any oysters down the road where he got heaps 20 years earlier. Meanwhile I had a great time digging up shellfish for bait to catch fish off the jetty to feed to the local dolphins. Old man was like "where's all the fish, what you fed them all to the dolphins again" & he'd laugh. We'd jump off the jetty for a swim between fishing sessions. Old man did get some good blue manner crabs in the evening. Was awesome...took missus there 20 years later in 2004. Havta pay to enter the beach, no fishing or swimming allowed & you couldn't feed the dolphins. I now understood how the old man felt back in 1982.

Stories like this remind me how time flies & we should make the most of our time before it passes.

But to answer your Q Chrispy dude..I've worked vineyard seasonal jobs in the SW, midnight to morning bakery jobs & shift work to try & maximise time in the water.

Had a second job from March to June to earn some extra cash for a holiday & did miss a lot of great/decent days...surf quality measurements can vary so much hey. I mean like when there's a bit of a wave but you haven't gone out coz although its sizey, its side shore. But you see it the next day & the swell size has dies in the azz & your like fark I should have surfed yesterday haha

You only live once & there is no rewind button on it...just gotta make the most of each day. Lifes choices can be difficult at times, make sacrifices for the benefit of future plans or make the most of things while your young or before things change & those experiences are no longer available. Hats off to you guys that have it sussed, there are a few of you here

Seems like he has a pretty nice setup but I'm with Mac in that you can find joy in other things like watching your kids grow...for me I was a pretty relentless when I was in high school and just after leaving would do anything to surf and then surf all day drop jobs **** off people etc...then I kinda drifted away from surfing for a bunch of reasons and just worked really really hard and travelled for about 10 years...like doing 90 hrs a week for months on end and then go surfing for a month or do some other ****...when we started our family I was still working flat...I think the lightbulb went of when I'd been up working on a fault for about 36hrs just got home and they asked me to go back in my wife was pregnant with our second at the time...I sat down and wrote out the things that were the most important to me and said these are the things I want to do....now I work from home two days a week...surf my ass off...travel a lot...shape some boards...and get to watch my family grow in one of the most beautiful places in the world

Hes a pretty stylish surfer as well,like he said theres compromises you have to make whatever life you lead,just get out there as often as you can and enjoy it

Select to expand quote

Ctngoodvibes said..
Looks a bit like Roy

Also had a bit of DJ'ish at one point as well

Well said Tux - and a mighty fine family you have as well Seems to me you have a good balance happening there in those beautiful surrounds.