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Blair365 said..
It was me lads, sorry havent been on the Breeze for a while, however I reckon a few things can be learnt from my bad experience on sat, the story is as follows:
I went out around 10am at Kingscliff the swell was prob 3 foot however due to the moon phase it was a massive high tide and a lot of water was moving around inside the bank. I went out with a couple of mates sons and had no dramas getting out the back as the rip pushed us out nicely. As I got out a wave hit me and my leg rope let go and board was lost. (A lesson here: I used a calf leg rope which I dont like and as it was on the board and being lazy I left it on, the attachment strugles to fit around my calf and I thought nothing of it)
As my board got picked up and sent to the beach I was left out the back with a horrendous rip to counter attack, one of the young lads went in to get my board leaving me there and the other had been swept down the beach, I started to panick as no one else was around and I was floating against a current with waves belting me. a few things went through my mind the first was to take of my wetsuit top which was weighing me down and was adding to the struggle, luckily I left it on as I decided if i couldnt get it off it could cover my face and I would be in further strife, I decided to swim for it, I back myself as a fairly good swimmer but this had me worried, I took the next wave that picked me up and drove me under and held me under, I couldnt find the way to the top and took a mouthful of water, I got my head out of the water and the waves kept coming as I was coughing the water and struggling with getting some decent air. Lesson number 2: when this happens the energy you burn is unbelievable I was stuffed, This is also when I really panicked I kept looking at the beach and knew I was no chance I had my hand up and was yeliing out for help in between waves and coughs, the other young fella saw me and eventually got to me while battling the current, once he got to me my panicking stopped and we drifted down the beach to be rescued by the legend lifesavers who saw us as we went through the flagged areas with our arms up.
The threw me on the rescue board and got me right, I had three big spews of water within 30 mins of getting on the beach, and was worn out. I was bloody lucky and it is also a lesson to be wary of surfing solo.
The water moving around the beach that day was more than I noticed and I really didnt see a problem until I lost my board, from that point on everything turns upside down really quick.
This is the most scared I have been in my life and I thought I was going to drown, it is bloody hard not to panick when the crap hits the fan, out there and I am grateful I went out with a couple of guys that morning as no one else was out and equally grateful for the lifesavers who donate there time to help.
A side note to this story is that my first mate who went in to get the board found it around 500 meters down from where we went in, people where on the beach and no one noticed a board floating with no one attached, so dont presume people are switched on to what maybe happening.
I hope this helps and for the reccord my longest post on the breezeCheers lads
Great post. Thanks for sharing. I think a lot of us surf in situations where occasionally we may think 'gee, if my leggie broke now, i'd be in a bit of strife'. Your tale is a good reminder to consider such things a bit more deeply. (re my post above about the Breezer in 'where i surfed today' . . . sounds like Chrispy had a similarly intense experience.) Glad everyone is around to surf some more.